foster461 Posted August 22, 2019 Report Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) I have been steadily replacing the linkage that came with the cannon manifold using better quality linkage parts. The last part to go is the bell crank which I have never liked because it is a one size fits all contraption held together with nuts and bolts and it tends to bind when it gets hot because there is no bearing for the pivot, just a bush. I bought a bell crank from Summit racing which looks like a reasonable quality part but the bearing surface is recessed on both sides so I am unclear how they expect this to be installed. This will be attached to a bracket under the manifold and the only way I see this working is to add some spacers to both sides of the bearing that would allow me to clamp this up tight to the bracket without impeding the ability to swivel. What am I missing ? Stan Edited August 22, 2019 by foster461 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 22, 2019 Report Share Posted August 22, 2019 Your suggestion of washers/spacers either side is what I would have arrived at and tried. Give it a try. All you need to be sure of is that the mounting bolt is tight and cannot undo by using metal self locking nut or split pinned slotted nut. Nyloc patch may melt if it is too hot an area. Peter W Link to all metal Philidas nut https://www.fastenright.com/general-fixings/philidas-turret-nut/sl16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted August 22, 2019 Report Share Posted August 22, 2019 Looks like a socket head shoulder bolt with a spacer on the back side may work. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, ed_h said: Looks like a socket head shoulder bolt with a spacer on the back side may work. Ed That is just what I was playing with Ed. The 1/4 socket head bolt sits nicely on the bearing inner and the spacer lets it stand off the bracket. I think I will weld a nut on the bracket so I can more easily remove it if I need to. Maybe just use some thread locker to discourage the bolt from winding out. It is a very hostile location. Stan Edited August 22, 2019 by foster461 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted August 22, 2019 Report Share Posted August 22, 2019 Why not drill the nut/bolt and fit a split pin? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted August 22, 2019 Report Share Posted August 22, 2019 Hi Stan, And make sure your spacer/rings to only contact the inner race, not the outer. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2019 The inner race is slightly wider than the outer so the spacer doesn't interfere with the bearing operation. Re the spilt pin, the nut will end up right up against the exhaust. I could assemble it and secure the nut with a cotter pin or safety wire but if this bell crank doesn't work out I would have a heck of a job getting it off without removing the manifold.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) drill the hex head and wire lock? Cheers Peter W See Tuck Jones drill jig in Shelby book https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carroll-Smiths-Nuts-Bolts-Fasteners-Plumbing-Builder-New-book/171438598562?hash=item27ea8969a2:g:-A4AAOSwAaJZ86j4&vxp=mtr PS Or fit an anchor nut, which is all metal and self locking. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/nut_anchor.html (they work fine on jet engine exhaust thrust reversers that get up to around 650 c) Edited August 23, 2019 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: drill the hex head and wire lock? Cheers Peter W See Tuck Jones drill jig in Shelby book https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carroll-Smiths-Nuts-Bolts-Fasteners-Plumbing-Builder-New-book/171438598562?hash=item27ea8969a2:g:-A4AAOSwAaJZ86j4&vxp=mtr PS Or fit an anchor nut, which is all metal and self locking. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/nut_anchor.html (they work fine on jet engine exhaust thrust reversers that get up to around 650 c) Drilling the bolt head and anchoring the safety wire to the bracket might work. May have to add something to the bracket to make that work without impeding the operation of the bell crank. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 I'd just use Loctite. How hot is it going to get? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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