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I have been steadily replacing the linkage that came with the cannon manifold using better quality linkage parts. The last part to go is the bell crank which I have never liked because it is a one size fits all contraption held together with nuts and bolts and it tends to bind when it gets hot because there is no bearing for the pivot, just a bush.

I bought a bell crank from Summit racing which looks like a reasonable quality part but the bearing surface is recessed on both sides so I am unclear how they expect this to be installed. This will be attached to a bracket under the manifold and the only way I see this working is to add some spacers to both sides of the bearing  that would allow me to clamp this up tight to the bracket without impeding the ability to swivel. What am I missing ?

 

Stan

 

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Edited by foster461
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Your suggestion of washers/spacers either side is what I would have arrived at and tried.  

Give it a try.  All you need to be sure of is that the mounting bolt is tight and cannot undo by using metal self locking nut or split pinned slotted nut. Nyloc patch may melt if it is too hot an area.

Peter W

Link to all metal Philidas nut  https://www.fastenright.com/general-fixings/philidas-turret-nut/sl16

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1 hour ago, ed_h said:

Looks like a socket head shoulder bolt with a spacer on the back side may work.

Ed

That is just what I was playing with Ed. The 1/4 socket head bolt sits nicely on the bearing inner and the spacer lets it stand  off the bracket. I think I will weld a nut on the bracket so I can more easily remove it if I need to. 

Maybe just use some thread locker to discourage the bolt from winding out. It is a very hostile location.

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Stan

Edited by foster461
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The inner race is slightly wider than the outer so the spacer doesn't interfere with the bearing operation.

 

Re the spilt pin, the nut will end up right up against the exhaust. I could assemble it and secure the nut with a cotter pin or safety wire but if this bell crank doesn't work out I would have a heck of a job getting it off without removing the manifold..

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drill the hex head and wire lock?

Cheers

Peter W

See Tuck Jones  drill jig in Shelby book  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carroll-Smiths-Nuts-Bolts-Fasteners-Plumbing-Builder-New-book/171438598562?hash=item27ea8969a2:g:-A4AAOSwAaJZ86j4&vxp=mtr

 

PS Or fit an anchor nut, which is all metal and self locking.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/nut_anchor.html

(they work fine on jet engine exhaust thrust reversers that get up to around 650 c)

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

drill the hex head and wire lock?

Cheers

Peter W

See Tuck Jones  drill jig in Shelby book  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carroll-Smiths-Nuts-Bolts-Fasteners-Plumbing-Builder-New-book/171438598562?hash=item27ea8969a2:g:-A4AAOSwAaJZ86j4&vxp=mtr

 

PS Or fit an anchor nut, which is all metal and self locking.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/nut_anchor.html

(they work fine on jet engine exhaust thrust reversers that get up to around 650 c)

Drilling the bolt head and anchoring the safety wire to the bracket might work. May have to add something to the bracket to make that work without impeding the operation of the bell crank.

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