Timing

[rogerowen]

Having found the timing  mark 'hole' (thanks - was looking for a 'notch'), I see that the distributor has been set up 90 degrees anticlock of the standard position i.e. pointing towards cylinder 1. Dizzy cap is wire correctly 1,3,4,2, but the inside of the distributor has a mass of metal filings - looks like the new rotor is too big for the old cap! I'm wondering how to correct the position by 90 degrees - I seem to remember that the key at the bottom only allows 180 degree of difference.

[RogerH]

Hi Roger

you need to get the #1 piston to TDC - do not use the timing mark for this.  The often used method is to get a piston stop into the spark plug hole and then with a timing wheel you can set the absolute position.

Remove the dizzy from the pedestal. Check that the 'D; on the shaft down below is pointing to #1 sparky.

This probably where the error is - because the gear is on a spiral you start in the right place and end up off course.

Whilst you are twisting this to line up you need it to engage in a tenon joint on the oil pump.

With the pedesat; drive lined up the dizzy should then fit correct;ly.

This is all in the WSM - read it for a few minutes to understand what is going on.

Roger

[rogerowen]

Thanks Roger, this car has many surprises for me  

[Geko]

The key at the bottom doesn't "allow" for 180* difference because it's offset. Just make sure that the slot is pointing towards the #1 pushrod as per the pic with the larger part of the offset towards you 

As Roger mentions, it will take several attempts to get it smack in because the gear is on a spiral. 

[rogerowen]

40 minutes ago, Geko said:

The key at the bottom doesn't "allow" for 180* difference because it's offset. Just make sure that the slot is pointing towards the #1 pushrod as per the pic with the larger part of the offset towards you 

As Roger mentions, it will take several attempts to get it smack in because the gear is on a spiral. 

Thanks, yes - I've managed that. It's funny because I remember the same thing with my friends TR3A (also a US re-import). No gaskets anywhere - just some goo on the pedestal base, I'll probably buy one. I don't think there's a gasket for the top of the pedestal though, but might just put a smear of jointing compound there. 

[Geko]

yes there's a mickey mouse gasket but you'll probably tear it while attempting to refit the dizzy gear so whatever RTV will do indeed 

[Rob Salisbury]

You'll need the gaskets on top of the pedestal to set the end float between the drive gear and the base of the dizzy drive, once  again all in the WM.

Cheers Rob

[rogerowen]

1 hour ago, Rob Salisbury said:

You'll need the gaskets on top of the pedestal to set the end float between the drive gear and the base of the dizzy drive, once  again all in the WM.

Cheers Rob

Thanks Rob, yes - I've just seen this in the manual. Rimmer have these paper gasket/shims for the bottom of the pedestal  - I guess I'd have to get a few as there's no telling how many will be needed to make up the correct end float. Sounds a bit finickity .

[Rob Salisbury]

It's not too bad once you get your head round what's going on, but it needs to be right,  ... too tight and you will quickly wear out either your cam or the dizzy drive, too loose and your timing will be all over the place as the drive moves up and down in mesh with the cam!!

[rogerowen]

1 minute ago, Rob Salisbury said:

It's not too bad once you get your head round what's going on, but it needs to be right,  ... too tight and you will quickly wear out either your cam or the dizzy drive, too loose and your timing will be all over the place as the drive moves up and down in mesh with the cam!!

Thanks Rob, point taken. Think I'll get some gasket paper locally and make up the shims myself - got nothing else to get from rimmer at the moment, and I want to try and fix it tomorrow. Thanks again for the helpful advice.

[ianc]

re. metal filings.  From your photo of the inside of the dizzy, it would seem that the rotor arm is standing too high or has risen upwards and, as a consequence, has been machining the inside of the contacts of the connectors to the plugs.

You need to investigate this, as more serious damage could occur (e.g. you might split the dizzy cap).

Is the rotor arm properly engaged (pushed down) onto its mounting?

Is the drive spindle rising upwards so as to lift the rotor arm?  If so, something is wrong here!

Ian Cornish

[rogerowen]

4 minutes ago, ianc said:

re. metal filings.  From your photo of the inside of the dizzy, it would seem that the rotor arm is standing too high or has risen upwards and, as a consequence, has been machining the inside of the contacts of the connectors to the plugs.

You need to investigate this, as more serious damage could occur (e.g. you might split the dizzy cap).

Is the rotor arm properly engaged (pushed down) onto its mounting?

Is the drive spindle rising upwards so as to lift the rotor arm?  If so, something is wrong here!

Ian Cornish

Thanks Ian, yes I need to investigate this - something's not right. 

[rogerowen]

13 hours ago, ianc said:

re. metal filings.  From your photo of the inside of the dizzy, it would seem that the rotor arm is standing too high or has risen upwards and, as a consequence, has been machining the inside of the contacts of the connectors to the plugs.

You need to investigate this, as more serious damage could occur (e.g. you might split the dizzy cap).

Is the rotor arm properly engaged (pushed down) onto its mounting?

Is the drive spindle rising upwards so as to lift the rotor arm?  If so, something is wrong here!

Ian Cornish

When I first got the car, the distributor was partly dismantled. the base plate was off as was the cam - maybe I didn't put them back properly will have to check.

[stuart]

You might also like to get a decent rotor arm and cap from Martin (Distributor doctor)

Stuart.