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I am just about to remove the body shell from my 4A chassis for repair & painting & have been advised to have the body Acid dipped first. Living in the Midlands two companies near me are Prostrip in Nottingham & Envirostrip in Tamworth.

Having searched the forum both companies were mentioned around 2013 but I can find nothing since. Has anyone any recent experience of either of these or other similar companies please?

Thanks

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Hi Allan, Pro strip is literally just down the road from me,  They have done several TR shells and also my friends e type, and cortina. If you want to come over for a cuppa I will take you down there. 

Hoges. 

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Hi Allan

After 18 months of debating if I should go for dipping v blasting after research and advice from Stuart I've gone for blasting as it seems the acids used are trapped in seams despite washing. These then come back to destroy paint finishes at a later date. Also cavities which had paint coverage remain naked and you can't be sure if subsequent  rustproofing is going to cover them again.

I'm going to have the panels baked, blasted and etch primed and the tub blasted and primed again to avoid removing any paint already there within cavities/hard to get to places.

Andy

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23 hours ago, PodOne said:

. Also cavities which had paint coverage remain naked and you can't be sure if subsequent  rustproofing is going to cover them again.

I'm going to have the panels baked, blasted and etch primed and the tub blasted and primed again to avoid removing any paint already there within cavities/hard to get to places.

 

If the panels are "pyrolised" (baked) the inside of the panels or structure will have the existing paint lifted just the same, and bare metal will be exposed.

Mick Richards 

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Hi Mick

Thinking about it your right with regard to the boot, bonnet and possibly the doors I think only the wings will get the pyolised.

Andy 

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I had my complete body shell 'processed' by one of the 'Chemical dip and Bake' companies. On reflection wish I had gone down the blasting route now. Interesting that (love or loathe them) the Car SOS lot normally blast rather than dip and bake. 

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I've used Envirostrip in the relatively recent past for my 1949 Land Rover, having used SPL for other panels on a TR4. They both caused problems with panel folded edges and seams etc, and I wish I hadn't used them.

For my current TR3 racecar project, I had the chassis, body tub and all panels glass bead blasted and primed by a local firm (just south of Stratford-upon-Avon) who do a lot of very high quality work on expensive classics - flat floor E-types short wheelbase Porsche 911s etc. They had previously blasted the front end of a TR4 for me.

I'm very pleased with the outcome.

David

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:mellow:

 

On 8/13/2019 at 9:58 PM, PodOne said:

After 18 months of debating if I should go for dipping v blasting after research and advice from Stuart I've gone for blasting as it seems the acids used are trapped in seams despite washing. These then come back to destroy paint finishes at a later date. Also cavities which had paint coverage remain naked and you can't be sure if subsequent  rustproofing is going to cover them again.

"the acids used are trapped in seams despite washing. These then come back to destroy paint finishes at a later date"   I had have the same experience with Citroen inner wing panels I did a few years ago.  These were washed and then left in the summer sun to dry thoroughly before cold-galvanising (zinc) spray painting and then paint.  I would not say my paint finish was 'destroyed' but the  off-white  colour has locally discoloured slightly more orange in places. Fortunately that's only seen within the engine bay so it's not a big deal.  

However., if I hadn't used acid then the rust within those spot-welded seams would have remained anyway.  Would that really have been any better ? 

And as those panels were off a lightweight Citroen - I'd have to be very confident the panels wouldn't be damaged / distorted / blown away by the impact, abrasion and heat of shot blasting.  Sadly I've pretty-much lost all confidence in any professional service.  And I guess that's almost a decider for me.   

I've also painted after a body shell, and also a chassis, have been blasted and it seems impossible to subsequently get rid of all the grit and dust, and those oh-so-fine 'bits', which magically appear out of every hidden corner, can then be seen in the otherwise nice paint finish. :angry:    I guess static is behind this phenomenon as they otherwise defy cleaning out with a vacuum or air gun, so perhaps one needs to pressure wash with hot soapy water thereafter, and then of course bake to dry.

A big advantage of using acid is that I can do that myself, as necessary and just one panel or a section at a time.  That has its own advantages, such as selecting what's to be cleaned off  ..which may not include areas of no rust ..like perhaps under the dashboard or where oil leaks have preserved original panels) or else to do more cleaning when having removed a panel or overlap and found rust under that  ..not to mention it being hundreds of pounds cheaper than professional services ..plus the hassles of handling and transportation.   Also I'll prefer not to pay someone to blast clean panels which will be cut out and replaced anyway,  like the floors and sills.

So although I'm presently open to suggestions / undecided what to do with my TR's body shell,  the present thinking is along the lines of :  Starting with removing all the interior and electrics and then to have commercial (as in haulage vehicles) steam / soap blast cleaning of body,  chassis and rolling gear,  and then for me to use acids once again, one section at a time.  But this time I'd like to be better set up, with a hot-water pressure washer to blast out the seams, and then to use a blowtorch along each to dry them out.   It would be nice to melt solder into those spot welded seams but I guess that would take far too long.  My neighbour is a plumber, so perhaps he might advise.  Alternatively I've often used wicking thread and bearing-lock products, so perhaps I'll find something suitable from that world - to wick into those seams, otherwise I'll focus on using very thinned paint and an air gun to blow it into the seams ?

Pete

 

Edited by Bfg

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About 10 yrs back I had my 68 charger dipped, neutralised and etch primed by o e of the best known companies. 

This car was a 1 owner car from CA and although rot free I wanted it absolutely mint in every respect. 

Well with 2 years (despite NEVER getting wet or damp) started to rot through doors and other area where it involved folded metal or traps. 

I discovered, in my subsequent research that I was not alone and guys with some very very valuable cars were literally watching them dissolve before their eyes. A big court case ensued (not by me but by a big classic car company)

ive restored many cars and always blasted them. But leave the centres of large panels to save distortion 

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I'm going through the same thought process about my TR5 bodyshell/panel paint removal and am similarly put off dipping with the tales of trapped chemicals causing later problems.

Blast cleaning seems to be the preferred method but can anyone recommend a reputable company who will treat the body, etc with suitable care in the area remotely near to Retford, North Nottinghamshire.

Dave McD

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Hi Dave and all

I'm in the position in Wakefield anyone have any one out there with any recommendations?

Andy

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Pete Fenlon who used to post here, used to use Ribble Technology in Preston I believe

http://www.paint-strip.co.uk/

He rated them highly and I think used them a couple of times, although the cars were then sold on so it 's possible somebody else has the problem if a chemical reaction occurs. I was thinking of using them to pyrolise the shells and then pressure wash for removal of the residue and then phosphate for protection whilst the shell is repaired.

Mick Richards

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Andy

I used this firm http://www.ableblastclean.co.uk/index.HTML based in Tockwith to soda blast the shell of my TR6 about 10 years ago.

John, I think. Nice bloke, reasonable rates. He did a good job and sprayed the fresh metal with etch primer for me. Awful communications and he took bloody ages!

Anyhow, the body has stood up well.

The doors, bonnet and boot were dipped which, of course, takes what little paint was originally applied off the edges you can't see so there are some signs of rust appearing there.

David

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Well this certainly started a discussion. Having also talked to various people  at Stratford the consensus seemed to be against acid dipping the bodyshell due to issues with trapped residue, but OK on panels.

Having done a bit more research locally (Leicester) I have come across a company that will bead blast & prime the bodyshell for about half the cost of acid dipping. They have been going many years, specialise in Classics & seem to have a good reputation. The shell is booked in for next week.

thanks,

Allan

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I also had similar conversations at Stratford on Avon with similar conclusions.

So - go on Allan, who are they? Let us in on the secret please.

I've tried to contact Able Blast Clean as noted by David above (thanks David) but haven't had a reply back yet.

Dave McD

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23 hours ago, WWT338J said:

Andy

I used this firm http://www.ableblastclean.co.uk/index.HTML based in Tockwith to soda blast the shell of my TR6 about 10 years ago.

John, I think. Nice bloke, reasonable rates. He did a good job and sprayed the fresh metal with etch primer for me. Awful communications and he took bloody ages!

Anyhow, the body has stood up well.

The doors, bonnet and boot were dipped which, of course, takes what little paint was originally applied off the edges you can't see so there are some signs of rust appearing there.

David

Thanks David 

I'll give them a bell and see if the communication is any better!

Andy

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6 hours ago, Allan Westbury said:

Well this certainly started a discussion. Having also talked to various people  at Stratford the consensus seemed to be against acid dipping the bodyshell due to issues with trapped residue, but OK on panels.

Having done a bit more research locally (Leicester) I have come across a company that will bead blast & prime the bodyshell for about half the cost of acid dipping. They have been going many years, specialise in Classics & seem to have a good reputation. The shell is booked in for next week.

thanks,

Allan

That’s what I did Alan.

It is best to remove as much tectyl/bodyschutz before sending it to the blaster, otherwise a lot of energy is required, which my lead to deformation. I used a simple torch and a blade knife (sorry, do not know correct wording, the one you use for filler too) for this.

I did the same with the panels, the “dipper” asked for this.

Regards,

Waldi

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I wont have any dipping now and have gone back to good old fashioned blasting, TBH most of the ones that I end up doing the question of rust in seams doesn't really arise as we end up having to dismantle and repair replace so much of the shells that we've been in most of the seams anyway!

Stuart.

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Waldi, that is very timely advice; I was in 2 minds about taking the underseal off before the body tub gets bead blasted on Monday; now I will definitely do that. Do people advise against blasting the outer panels, even with soda?

Thanks

David

 

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Your’e welcome David, that’s what this forum is about:)

A gas burner, with mild flame works ok, but an electric hot air gun for paintstripping can also be used. Do not “burn”  the coating, even bubbling is too much,  just make it warm, then it comes off easy. The amount of flame governs the speed at which you can comfortably remove the coating, the knife can “follow” the flame because it takes some time before the heat has reached entirely through the coating.

Cheers,

Waldi

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14 hours ago, qkingston said:

 Do people advise against blasting the outer panels, even with soda?

Thanks

David

 

That still depends on the operator skill and the pressure used, and soda doesnt remove rust.

Stuart.

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3 hours ago, stuart said:

That still depends on the operator skill and the pressure used, and soda doesnt remove rust.

Stuart.

Absolutely.  The flatter a panel is, the more careful you have to be.  TR6 bonnets and boot lids are pretty flat, and it takes a lighter touch with blasting.

Ed

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12 hours ago, Waldi said:

Your’e welcome David, that’s what this forum is about:)

A gas burner, with mild flame works ok, but an electric hot air gun for paintstripping can also be used. Do not “burn”  the coating, even bubbling is too much,  just make it warm, then it comes off easy. The amount of flame governs the speed at which you can comfortably remove the coating, the knife can “follow” the flame because it takes some time before the heat has reached entirely through the coating.

Cheers,

Waldi

Best of all, if you can, is to heat the other side of the panel, so the underseal softens next to the metal. Come off very cleanly then.

Pete

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