Replace Overdrive Solenoid A type

[PhilCollins1]

The fairly new overdrive solenoid on my TR2 has gone open circuit. I now have a replacement and a few spare set screws in my hand. However access from beneath to the fixings is very restricted unless you have the fingers of a fairy princess.

This may be a forlorn hope but has anyone experience of replacing the solenoid without either dropping the gearbox or removing the transmission tunnel? If so please point me in the right direction.

Thanks.

[Graham Harris]

The bad news is tunnel out

 

Graham

[Fireman049]

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Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049

[PhilCollins1]

Thanks to Graham and Tom. Not the answer I had hoped for so it's a case of getting the tunnel out.

 

Best wishes,

 

Phil

 

 

[RogerH]

Hi Phil

as a temporary measure you can cut the hole in the tunnel to access the solenoid without removing the tunnel.

 

Roger

[iain]

As modified for Works sidescreen cars. Maybe you could create this in- situ?

Access panel held by two dzus  fasteners.

opposite side two addition rubber bungs placed to allow removal and cleaning of actuator.

[Rodbr]

In this instance I suggest that you do remove the tunnel so you can visibly check for crispy wiring. I suspect you have the same issue as I had earlier this year. Change the solenoid and check the operation with a meter that you do in fact have the reduction in load from pullin load to holding coil. You need access to the fitting to be sure you have the rubber cap fitted fully through the hole in the mounting. Fill this with grease!!!!! I would also suggest that you form an additional seal round the top where the wire enters the solenoid. This is where your problems will start as water will enter the solenoid through the wire hole, coat the bullet connector with mastic to seal the connection. 

Think of it this way in that if you can see a potential for water to ingress then it will get in. Check operation and adjustment fully before refitting a chopped tunnel cover as you will not want to be doing this two years down the line. From a working overdrive to burnt out solenoid to not is about two miles before the top plastic switch holder melts and this is not fixable. T this time you also blow a fuse taking out other utilities.

I cut my tunnel before the gear lever hole in two pieces fitted the front one and made a joddled flange with Rivnut fixings and covered the joint with Gorrilla tape, better than "duct tape"

Take baby steps if unsure, remove seats completely (or risk nicks from the tunnels corners and carpets fully or you will get oils from the tunnel, the3n remove the tunnel fully.

Check wiring,

Check interrupt switches.

Replace solenoid.

Check loads with a meter.

Don't follow thie above and you risk the whole job a second or even third time.

Rod

[PhilCollins1]

Thanks to everyone for their advice. I will probably choose to live dangerously by leaving the tunnel intact when replacing it.

It's a story we have all heard before. The original solenoid survived 50 years of neglect and abuse and kept going until failing (the switch on the top of the solenoid itself) a year ago. Shortly after I had planned a gearbox rebuild so a new solenoid was fitted at the same time. After less than six months overdrive operation became intermittent. It took months chasing with a meter before the fault  persisted long enough for me to actually find it- intermittent loss of continuity in the solenoid itself.

So now I have another new solenoid which shows the correct resistances, ready to fit. However all these replacement parts, some in shiny green Lucas boxes, don't seem to have the quality of the originals. Perhaps Joe Lucas wasn't the Prince of Darkness after all. At Stratford this weekend I will watching out for any New Old Stock items should they exist.

Thanks again- over and out.

 

Phil