TR4/4A/5 Roll over Jig - FREE

[rvwp]

Hi Guys,

Having constructed a  jig to allow my TR4A project body tub to be rolled over through 360 degrees, I will be finished with the jig in the next month or so.

Rather than throw the construction away, if anybody's interested in it then I will happily let them have it. Its been so much easier to work on, (getting too old to weld upside down now!)

I am in Weymouth where it can be seen if anybody is interested.

Edited August 4, 2019 by rvwp

[rcreweread]

Rich - I would be very interested and could collect

Cheers

Rich

PS -I think you have my contact details but if not PM me

 

[StevecTR4]

Hi

I'm in the process of planning to construct something simular for a TR4 with the central pole, so it would be useful if you are able to post a couple of additional shots of the front and rear body mountings. 

Amongst the jobs I need to do is replace the floors and sills. My concern is the body sagging on the jig during this process. I'm proposing to do the work panel by panel with door braces in place.

Have you carried out any work like this on you jig and have you had any issues.

Any pointers or lessons learnt greatfully received.

Best Regards

Steve

 

[rvwp]

Hi Steve, having previously rebuilt two TR6's as you say panel by panel, I have rebuilt both using the rebuilt chassis as the jig. A TR6 does easily lend itself to a jig as the rear bulkhead is in the way of the pole. That said the TR4A that I am currently restoring did not need complete floors or sills, just repairs, so the body was stiff and not liable to sag. The main benefit was to be able to turn through 90 degrees to properly repair the A and B post bottoms and the rear inner wings to rear deck which had previously been bodged. 

Also the car with the pole attached was taken to a sand blaster who was able to support the ends of the pole and turn it over a get to all areas.

The internal plywood bulkheads that I constructed are attached at the fuel tank fixings ( the fuel tank when in place is structural) and at the forward bulkhead, again structural. Any flexing of the scaffold pole front and back is minimal as it is two poles clamped together for additional strength.  I think you may be alright doing the floors and sills on a jig, but I would definitely put a support from garage floor to the pole between the plywood bulkheads through the gearbox gap to prevent any sagging when floors are cut out, perhaps one side at a time.

I can only upload 1 picture at a time, if you want more PM me your e mail and I can send more.

Best of luck

Rich

[StevecTR4]

Hi Rich

Many thanks for taking the time to send the additional information. Very valid point about the plywood bulkheads substituting removed structural elements. I was planning to bolt steel brackets to existing floor holes etc. which would not have offered the required diagonal stability your solution provides.

Regards

Steve

[rvwp]

Hi Steve, yes it is very stable and gives clear access to all the usual TR4 panel replacement areas.

As an added benefit the whole structure cost me £9 as I used old scaffold poles and clamps that were scrap from my local scaffold business. The plywood I had hanging around. The end supports I  had as I have roll jiged  my Sunbeam Tiger, but that was easy as just needed a bar across the bumper fixings each end of the chassis.

Regards

Rich 

[rcreweread]

Rich -  I responded to your post on here and I've sent you an email, but no response as yet  - have you tried contacting me?

Cheers

Rich