Relay numbering

[Peter Douglas Winn]

It is so long ago since I played with my Flasher relays I have forgotten what L B and P mean. any ideas? I can remember things like winding and contacts but  P L &  B have just vanished.

[RobH]

usually B supply, P dash tell-tale, L lights (via indicator switch) but on the '6 where it is used as a hazard flasher the L and B connections seem to be shown reversed. according to this diagram:

http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

Edited August 3, 2019 by RobH

[Peter Douglas Winn]

THe B and L seem to be OK. I can remember the words Line and Bulb but I cannot fit them in anywhere. The reason is, I have Hazards all OK, LHD blinker OK, Both Flashers OK, Turn switch OK. New Hazard switch also OK, Left hand turn OK,  right Hand turn indicator bulb on continually and no orange blinking. Hazard everything perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am trying to qork out what the hell is ahppening and I came across these stupid letters.

[Sapphire72]

Try cleaning right side bulb/contacts with abrasive paper. It may be as simple as that. Or switch bulbs l to r, r to l.

Sometimes when a bulb stops blinking, & stays on constantly, it may indicate the bulb at other end of the car is burnt out.

 

Edited August 3, 2019 by Sapphire72

[Peter Douglas Winn]

OK but why are  the Hazard orange lights completely OK?

[Sapphire72]

Peter, I was just trying to think of the common causes of electrical failure- corrosion in contact point, loose wire, weak Earth/ground point, faulty bulb.

Try a new double-filament bulb.

Somebody else might have ideas about it.  Good luck. It is probably something simple.

Walt

[Waldi]

Peter, if your bulbs are flashing on the hazard switch but not on the indicator stalk, you can assume the bulbs and their earths are ok. I suspect the indicator switch or more likely, a loose or poor connection of the wire for the RH indicator

Waldi

[Peter Douglas Winn]

Wald You are going down my road. The stalk is new and I have checked it out. At the moment I cannot weork our why the repeater bulb burns continuosly when the stalk is in the position for right turn and blinks correctly when in the position for left turn. As the indicators are not lighting up from where the hell is it getting the current? I am just wondering if there is a short in the cable loom somewhere. The loom is relatively new.

[Waldi]

Peter,

I suggest you have a look at the wiring diagram.

if the indicator lamp on the dash is burning,  but the lights front and rear are not, this is your starting-point.

Waldi

[RobH]

It's not clear what car we are discussing but its possible your fault is as follows:

If you look at the circuit diagram for the 70/71 TR6 from the link above  you will see that the repeater tell-tale is connected between the left and right flasher wiring, across the flasher relay. What is supposed to happen is the bulb gets its 'live' feed from whichever side the indicators are switched to and is earthed through the indicator bulbs on the other side. The tell-tale takes a very low current so doesn't light the bulbs up on the 'earthy' side.

If your car is like that, it sounds as though you have a bi-metallic type flasher relay which isn't operating properly on RH signalling.  In that case the indicator switch will provide current direct to the repeater which will light but the feed isn't getting to the main indicator bulbs so the relay isn't switching because there is no current draw. Its possible you have lost a connection where there are three green/white wires shown joined near the indicator switch or at the other end where the flasher circuit meets the hazard wiring a bit further to the right.

The bulbs all work with the hazard switch because the current feed comes via a different route (the purple wire).

[Peter Douglas Winn]

TR6 USA Very early 1971 with door buzzer. See attached. Bottom right hand corner. I don't quite understand quote "across the flasher relay" to me it looks like across the turn switch.

The bimetalic is new and a high powered version. How can it only work on oen side.?

I just wonder where is the double bullet connector for the rear flasher. If I knew I could seperate it and check for earths and continuity.

Edited August 4, 2019 by Peter Douglas Winn
typing error

[RobH]

Sorry , my mistake - slip of the keyboard - yes the repeater is across the switch of course.  

A bimetallic flasher will only work if it has a load drawing current through it to heat the element. If it doesn't 'see' a load from the RH flasher lamps (because of a faulty connection perhaps) it won't operate - but it will work fine on the LH side if that connection is OK.

[Peter Douglas Winn]

I think this may be the problem I will see.

[Peter Douglas Winn]

It seems that I have a problem with the double bullet connecter. I don't understand how one can have a problem with a bullet connecter We will see.

[Mike C]

I believe that bullet connectors are not as good as spade connectors- that's why their no longer used. I can often get them to work more reliably by cleaning then with emery paper and slightly squashing the female head- to give a better grip.

The best solution is to solder any joints that don't have to remain demountable.

[Peter Douglas Winn]

I replaced the nearly new with a new double bullet connector and things started flashing. So now before I put everything back I want to check all the connections. Will let you know if this was really the answer.

[Alan Gill]

A tip. I always smear my "bullet male " connector with Vaseline.

Cheers ...> Alan

[Peter Douglas Winn]

My friend has just rang and said Peter check all your connections clean them and vaseline them.  2 persons instructions will be followed. 

[AarhusTr6]

15 hours ago, Alan Gill said:

A tip. I always smear my "bullet male " connector with Vaseline.

Cheers ...> Alan

I read many say its not dielectric (vaseline).  I did some digging into this with an electrical engineer and summary is Vaseline is fine as long as its does not heat up as it has a low melt point.  Its a good cheap bit of maintenance IMHO.

[Waldi]

Vaseline on the connectors prevents corrosion, but does not “solve” it.

You can better first spray some contact spray on them to clean (remove the insulating oxide layer), and then smear with vaseline to protect the contact area.

Using a wire  brush or similar also removes the corrosion.

Waldi

[Peter Douglas Winn]

I always use contact spray. Vaseline usually for the Battery terminals.