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If you did this with the overdrive off you have a slipping / worn main clutch-"The other test I did was sitting on the flat I engaged 3rd gear raised the revs a little and slowly released the clutch. We I might as well been in first gear because the revs didn’t change, the car just moved off and no suggestion of stalling. '

Slave cylinder mounted on the G/B side of the mounting plate? Slave cylinder rod in centre hole? Hoses in good condition and not acting as check valves? 

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Hi Cameron,

I agree about the smell not coming from the OD clutch, so very likely main clutch.

With the car at rest, before you removed the slave cylinder, have you checked if there was no load from the slave cylinder to the clutch: you should be able to easily push the lever forward by hand, with just light effort. If that is ok, I suspect it is a clutch plate issue.

i think the slow  engaging of the OD is a separate issue. Was the oil level ok before you drained it. It would also be good to remove the large brass plug with the filter and magnetic rings. The OD plunger pump sucks from there. “Some” (a bit) fine metal in there is ok, but not to large or to much.

Waldi

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Cameron

Is that the slave cylinder piston poking out?

My slave has a circlip limiting piston travel

The slave piston needs to be pushed back all the way into the cylinder ( keep your eye on the fluid level if pushing  back) when checking  the clutch and if checking for a slipping clutch certainly ensure the pushrod is not too long as the clearance is reduced taken up as the clutch wears.

best of luck

Rog

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Hi Cameron,

it is hard to judge from a picture but it looks dirty for the 3-4000 mls you have driven with it. If it is much darker than new and stinks like burnt friction material, it could be from overheating by a slipping OD clutch, but again, that is hard to tell from a picture.

Waldi

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Hi Cameron

Penrite 20/60 is quite a sticky oil and the debate for which oil will rage on. So could it be the oil is frothing in your gearbox. I was recommended to use a GB40 oil in my overdrive box.

Edited by Kevo_6
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How long was the oil change before you put in the current oil? The detergents in the  new oil might have dislodged dirt from years of misuse.

If water separates out from that oil in the beaker it could be condensation from outside storage in cold weather. 

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OK...

Could it be that the flexible hose is acting as a non-return valve (known issue with old flex hoses). Meaning that when you take your foot off the clutch pedal after changing gear the slave is not able to empty fully leaving residual pressure on the clutch plate and hence the slipping..? Could also be caused by some crud in the slave preventing backflow.. pushing the Pistons back in could have dislodged this..

Tim

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12 hours ago, Cameron said:

Hi Roger

Dot 5 ,I know not everyone’s cup of tea, although I wouldn’t think a factor here,or could it be?

It could be if the seals have swelled so not allowing a full return of the cylinder.

Stuart.

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Hope I'm not teaching grandpa to suck eggs Cameron but remember DOT 5 fluid is SILICONE based and incompatible with DOT4, a POLYGLYCOL type. DOT 5.1 is also POLYGYCOL based and compatible with DOT4 in all proportions, simply having a significantly higher boiling point that DOT4, both as supplied and after water absorption. Hardly an issue in the clutch system I guess.

Tim 

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On 7/22/2019 at 9:03 PM, Kevo_6 said:

Hi Cameron

Penrite 20/60 is quite a sticky oil and the debate for which oil will rage on. So could it be the oil is frothing in your gearbox. I was recommended to use a GB40 oil in my overdrive box.

Straight engine oil in a Hypoid teeth cut gearbox as per TR gearboxes is a no no with the exception of Mini engine oil which has the special additives for hypoid cut teeth, that is why BL could bring out there front wheel dive system in 1959 in the form of the Austin Mini with a combined engine gear box.

Bruce.

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That gearbox oil looks awful - My gearbox man (now in his late 60's and has worked on TR's since his teens) only recommends 80/90 GL4 for TR Boxes and Overdrives.

He has rebuilt many a gearbox that has been filled with the wrong oil and this can prove awfully expensive!

Mark

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16 hours ago, Cameron said:

Hi All

A final update

When I got under the car and had someone operate the clutch after I bled  it,I could see that once the pedal was released the piston returned most of the way but slowed down to an almost halt and took 2 to 3 seconds to fully return.I took the cylinder off the car, and stripped it down. It was reasonably clean, with a little black deposit from the seal.I but it back together, bled it, realised there was a small amount of lateral movement on the bracket, so I took care get it as straight as possible. Anyway it’s now performing perfectly.

So no gearbox out this time ,great.

Thanks everybody for all the help.

Cameron

Excellent Cameron, now get out and enjoy it.

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