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Richard71

Spin On Filter Adaptor

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There is a mod to stop it :ph34r: most of the time they don't read the fitting instruction's and over tighten the bolt thinking this refers to the copper washer it applies to both. 

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Quick update....

I called MOCAL (Think Auto) this morning and described this issue. I was asked for photographs & measurements of the bolt (luckily I had all the parts with me as I was planning a detour into our workshop to clean them prior to re-assembly tonight).

I was then told that some years back around the time of my purchase that they had a bad batch of bolts and that I may have one them. My address was asked for and a replacement bolt and for some reason centre section of the filter head is on it's way. I will of course make a comparison of the parts when they arrive, probably Friday, but won't be doing anything with them until Saturday. Hopefully with a successful outcome before a TR group run on Sunday, fingers crossed.

Richard.

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Update...…..I fitted the replacement parts last week using new seals and great care & attention, but only found time this evening for a test run. Result, absolutely no improvement, if anything things are a little worse. See photo below, the bolt on the right is the alleged improved item and of course the bolt on the left is the original. To me the new bolt looks as though it would hold the sprung centre section further away from the engine block (note the position of the un-threaded area). Need to get my thinking cap back on.

Richard.

P.S. The replacement centre section they sent is identical in every way to the original.

Filter Head Bolt.jpg

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Hi Richard,

 have you ever run the engine with the standard oil filter assembly?

Roger

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Hi Richard,

I suggest to remove the oil pressure control valve, and see if it is moving freely and not damaged (see earlier post). My new valve (“mushroom”) was sticking, and by sanding the OD a bit it closed properly.

Cheers,

Waldi

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No light on it will be getting to much oil at the top end,rocker shaft,cam bearings but nowt to fret over.

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Thanks fellas for the replies.....

3 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Richard,

 have you ever run the engine with the standard oil filter assembly?

Roger

Roger, I fitted a standard canister assembly this morning, went for 100 mile drive, no improvement unfortunately.

 

1 hour ago, Waldi said:

Hi Richard,

I suggest to remove the oil pressure control valve, and see if it is moving freely and not damaged (see earlier post). My new valve (“mushroom”) was sticking, and by sanding the OD a bit it closed properly.

Cheers,

Waldi

Waldi, checked the relief valve too many times to mention, the valve fitted at present is from Chris Witor, highly recommended by other forum users, haven't found any fault there.

1 hour ago, ntc said:

No light on it will be getting to much oil at the top end,rocker shaft,cam bearings but nowt to fret over.

Neil, the light never illuminates not even a flicker, however, my worry is being stuck in a traffic jam for a prolonged period on a day as hot as we've been having lately, more so as overseas trips will be planned using this car.

I think this maybe something I'll just have to live with. Though having said that, I did forget to fit a calibrated mechanical gauge to the "tee" piece before I set off this morning.

I will of course report back if I change anything in the near future and have improved pressure.

Thanks again,

Richard.

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Hi all,

Update & conclusion.

I now have correct, acceptable and peace of mind oil pressure, in fact it would seem I've always had it and I've been chasing a "Red Herring"!

So here's the story...….keep in mind that every gauge & sender used has been professionally checked & calibrated.

When I was putting the car together I decided upon and electric oil pressure gauge (I can't remember my reasons why). However, there's no room for the oil pressure sender to fit where the usual flexible pipe would pick-up on the oil gallery. So, I plugged that port, fitted a "tee piece" where the oil pressure warning switch fits and fitted my pressure sender there. This has been giving me the oil pressure readings I reported earlier in this thread.

On a hunch, a few weeks ago a bought a new mechanical oil pressure gauge & flexible pipe, took the gauge to the calibration company I use for work, I even witnessed the test and it reads spot on throughout the entire range of 0-100psi. The flexible pipe is now fitted to it's usual port on the gallery and the gauge hastily secured with cable ties in the engine bay (the electric gauge & sender are still in place).

Only this afternoon have I managed to get around to a test drive of 30mins. Results on the mechanical gauge are around 80psi cold idle & around 28psi at hot idle, idle speed 850rpm. The electric gauge still reads almost zero at hot idle. So it would seem there is some discrepancy in oil pressure between the gallery ports where the low pressure switch fits and the flexible pipe fits. I'll need to have a look at a bare engine block and see what's going on or if this anomaly is unique to my engine.

Anyway, I now have a new definition of "oil pressure relief", I also have a magnolia face electric oil pressure gauge & sender for sale :D.

Many thanks to you all for your helpful tips & advice even though it was a wild goose chase.

Richard.

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Hi Richard,

it may still be worth installing the mechanical gage to the other port, just in front of the dizzy, right next to the oil pressure control valve. There is a restriction in the oil galery where the cast iron bearing bush (for the dizzy) is pressed in, so the pressure in the rear part of the gallery where oil enters can be higher. Later ones have the outside of the bush machined down a bit, which improves flow around it. Some castings have some sand left in there, mine had, it was almost impossible to remove. If you indeed have that low pressure it could lead to oil starvation on the bearings  in the front area of the engine.

you could check the electronic sender/gage too, also check if it is sensitive for voltage changes. Depending on where you took the electric feed it could be low (from the stabilizer), or just battery voltage. That could also be a point to check (see if the reading goes up when you give 13+ volt to the gage/sender.

Waldi

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23 hours ago, Waldi said:

Hi Richard,

it may still be worth installing the mechanical gage to the other port, just in front of the dizzy, right next to the oil pressure control valve. There is a restriction in the oil galery where the cast iron bearing bush (for the dizzy) is pressed in, so the pressure in the rear part of the gallery where oil enters can be higher. Later ones have the outside of the bush machined down a bit, which improves flow around it. Some castings have some sand left in there, mine had, it was almost impossible to remove. If you indeed have that low pressure it could lead to oil starvation on the bearings  in the front area of the engine.

you could check the electronic sender/gage too, also check if it is sensitive for voltage changes. Depending on where you took the electric feed it could be low (from the stabilizer), or just battery voltage. That could also be a point to check (see if the reading goes up when you give 13+ volt to the gage/sender.

Waldi

Thanks Waldi,

Those are some good ideas to experiment with in the future. But for now I'm content and leave as is. After all, if I had the original mechanical gauge feed from the correct port I would never have raised the topic.

Thanks again,

Richard.

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