tim hunt Posted July 18, 2019 Report Share Posted July 18, 2019 (edited) +1 for Tracy Tools. Bought an imperial tap drill set from this company some time ago - excellent quality and keen price. Tim Edited July 18, 2019 by tim hunt Amplification Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted July 18, 2019 Report Share Posted July 18, 2019 (edited) My first and last cheap expanding reamer went directly to the scrap. But what can you expect for nothing? Edited July 18, 2019 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerowen Posted July 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2019 8 hours ago, Z320 said: My first and last cheap expanding reamer went directly to the scrap. But what can you expect for nothing? Old expression - you get what you pay for. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerowen Posted July 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 Thanks everyone for your input. Cheers, Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 Hi, some more input, if you like? adjustable reamers have 6 blades, the distance from blade 1-4, 2-5 and 3-6 must be exactly the same, otherwise the reamer "jumps". On my cheap adjustable reamer this was all fine as long as I did not adjust it, after adjusting it to the diameter I needed I had +/- 0.1 mm 3 different dimensions - scrap. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 Hi Marco, TRacy Tools do a great trade with the Model Engineering folk in the UK. Back street garages often by cheapo tools to get by. Model engineers need quality tools but usually don;t have the money for the best (usually old and retired - like most of us) So, TRacy Tools do quality at a good price A few years ago I bought a set of Draper taps. The threads had huge burrs on them from where the flutes had been ground - totally useless. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 (edited) Hi Roger, I can not (and don't want to) say anything about "TRacy Tools". My adjustable reamer was from "Paulimot", also a quality supplier https://www.paulimot.de/ I have lots of tools from them and always have been pleased, got my money back for the reamer and still order there my tool. But adjustable reamers they do not offer anymore. Sorry, I don't know why.... Ciao, Marco Edited July 19, 2019 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerowen Posted July 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 Update: 9/16th is too small. As the 9/16th reamer I bought was to big for the chuck of my pillar drill - I had a local engineering firm use my reamer on their CNC machine - beautifully reamed holes - but drums still did not fit. So, I have now drilled out with a 14.5mm reduced shank drill and they now fit. A very tight fit indeed, and required a Thor hammer clout to get perfectly home. It's essential to clear out any crud around the shoulders of the wheel studs as well as the centre part of the hub that fits into the central hole of the drum. But hey - they are on! Hope this information will be of help to others facing the same predicament. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 They may be on Roger but will they ever come off again without a puller? Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dic Doretti Posted July 23, 2019 Report Share Posted July 23, 2019 I think the central flange on the hub is the main locator of the brake drum keeping it concentric along with the 2 small countersunk screws, so drilling should be fine. Cheers Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerowen Posted July 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2019 11 hours ago, Dic Doretti said: I think the central flange on the hub is the main locator of the brake drum keeping it concentric along with the 2 small countersunk screws, so drilling should be fine. Cheers Richard One screw one side broken - never had much luck with 'easy outs', but at least wheel and wheel nuts will help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 24, 2019 Report Share Posted July 24, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, rogerowen said: One screw one side broken - never had much luck with 'easy outs', but at least wheel and wheel nuts will help. If your "Easy outs" are the tapered left hand threaded variety throw them away. They are too hard and the stress raiser where the thread ends is a weak spot where they break...almost always. Leaves you with a harder than hell insert stuck inside your snapped of bolt and a bigger problem. Centre pop the centre (see where it gets it's name ?) of the snapped bolt (as best you can ) and starting with a small drill ...delicately start a hole in the centre of the snapped off screw (only 1 mm or so). Then if you have any centre drills small enough enlarge the small hole as large as you can without cutting into the drum countewrsunk area, proceed using normal drills and open out the hole down the broken shank until it just breaks through one side of the hole in the drum (unless you are lucky and get the centre exact). By then the stud will be too weak to prevent the drum coming off, then when you can get to it try using mole grips on the remaining shank of the stud showing above surface on the hub, or if it's too weak and stuck continue drilling again with a smaller drill than the core of the thread on the stud until it bottoms. Again open out the hole until it get's to the core of the thread dia and then pick at the wispy material sticking out of the hole and the stud thread material often unwinds like a helicoil leaving the hub thread unmarked. I've given up using these small screws, a pain in the ...derriere, the drum locates with the hub flange...there it's concentric, now all it needs is holding on...oh wait it has a wheel clamped against it with $*^% whatever torque you decide is correct to the wheel and 4 studs with a shoulder going through the holes. I raced like this and they never move...next. Mick Richards Edited July 24, 2019 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerowen Posted July 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2019 14 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said: If your "Easy outs" are the tapered left hand threaded variety throw them away. They are too hard and the stress raiser where the thread ends is a weak spot where they break...almost always. Leaves you with a harder than hell insert stuck inside your snapped of bolt and a bigger problem. Centre pop the centre (see where it gets it's name ?) of the snapped bolt (as best you can ) and starting with a small drill ...delicately start a hole in the centre of the snapped off screw (only 1 mm or so). Then if you have any centre drills small enough enlarge the small hole as large as you can without cutting into the drum countewrsunk area, proceed using normal drills and open out the hole down the broken shank until it just breaks through one side of the hole in the drum (unless you are lucky and get the centre exact). By then the stud will be too weak to prevent the drum coming off, then when you can get to it try using mole grips on the remaining shank of the stud showing above surface on the hub, or if it's too weak and stuck continue drilling again with a smaller drill than the core of the thread on the stud until it bottoms. Again open out the hole until it get's to the core of the thread dia and then pick at the wispy material sticking out of the hole and the stud thread material often unwinds like a helicoil leaving the hub thread unmarked. I've given up using these small screws, a pain in the ...derriere, the drum locates with the hub flange...there it's concentric, now all it needs is holding on...oh wait it has a wheel clamped against it with $*^% whatever torque you decide is correct to the wheel and 4 studs with a shoulder going through the holes. I raced like this and they never move...next. Mick Richards Thanks Mark - yes, I've had some success with progressive drilling in the past in exactly the way you describe. Getting a punch as central as possible is the key for sure! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dic Doretti Posted July 24, 2019 Report Share Posted July 24, 2019 I was thinking about this thread today while working on the suspension of a Swallow Doretti. The wheel studs on the rear are a larger diameter than the front due to the shoulder but are the drums different, no. So the drums are a loose fit on the front without the countersunk screws. As Mick points out all play is removed when the wheels are attached. Cheers Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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