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silverfox4

SS water pipe to heater needs cobbling

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Hi All

This new SS water pipe from TRF requires some serious manipulation to fit properly not interfere with the battery box.  Can anyone advise if it is standard practice to re0work  this replacement part or is there a supplier with one that better matches the original?

Cheers,

Alf 

 

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IMG_2944.JPG.0019254c23c8b4ded7ee1bdb15789910.JPGIMG_2945.JPG.ffb22af6bd8d13b5bb23a8050a23b2cc.JPG

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Hi,

I would expect the brass olive on the long end slack on the pipe.

Than I would slide it in the correct position and make the tube shorter with a quality hack saw cut.

The shorter end seems to be too long - but this should not matter the hose.

Ciao, Marco

 

Edited by Z320

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I had similar issues on the new ss pipe for the TR6.

The brass olive did not fit, the pipe was a bit to long, and the bracket was not oriented correct.

I shortened the pipe, bent the bracket and sanded the pipe end until the olive fitted.

About 1 hr of additional work. Glad I only had to charge myself:)

Waldi

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I see no problem,

if I would be the one who has to sell this

I would make it better 100 mm too long than 1 mm too short. 

Edited by Z320

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If it doesn't fit, it's the supplier's responsibility. Easy enough to make it fit, but why should you?

Pete

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Just checked my drawing files.

I have this one of 88-208606  which was drawn from a genuine sample in the 1980's

Weird thing is the use of metric measurements.  The tube is 1/2" od - which I think is the same as the bonnet prop of a Land Rover......

How does it compare?

Peter W

 

208606 Water Tubes small.pdf

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Many thanks for informative comments. I will let TRF know that it is dimensionally way off - while the length can be altered (yes the olive moves easily), but the bends may be more of a challenge.  

So it looks as though I am not the only one. I will now start bending and cutting as Waldi has done, but as noted it really is a pita.- It should not be that difficult to replicate something so simple.

Thx for the drawing Peter, I will try and bend up new one just in case I mess up this one.

Again many thanks all,

Cheers Alf

 

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Sorry,

for me the new one looks more like the one the sketch and the old one is "wrong".

But I think the nwew one will fit anyway without bending, just make it shorter.

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While you have the hacksaw out you might consider making the hole that goes under the rear manifold nut into a U shape. It makes it much easier to remove the exhaust manifold without having to drain down the cooling system as you can flex the pipe clear of the manifold stud. 

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I have tape marked the new one the intended shortening cut to see  it might fit.  Right now I am trying to free-up the nut of the old one so I can check the installed position of the old one again for comparison.

The drawing shows 470mm length, 60mm between bends with approx. 7mm off-set and the rear bracket at 18 deg. The new one is around 40mm between bends, with a 7mm off-set, so it is close, since it can be cut to the 470 mm length. but the rear bracket is parallel which will have to addressed.  The old one is 478mm long  with 90mm between bends with a 15mm off-set. The 8mm of extra length may explain why the rear section of the old one turns back in more than 90 deg

The bottom line is that, other than rear bracket angle of 18 deg,  the new one is probably closer to the drawing, so I will have a go to make it fit

Good tip Pete on U-shape hole, but doesn't removing the fastening bolt on the rear bracket serve the dame purpose?

Cheers,

Alf

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5 hours ago, silverfox4 said:

 

Good tip Pete on U-shape hole, but doesn't removing the fastening bolt on the rear bracket serve the dame purpose?

Cheers,

Alf

 

Hi Alf,

   Pete's 'U' shape tip is good. To remove you simply remove the manifold nut and slip down the pipe away form the manifold stud.

Leaving the original fixing hole in the bracket means the pipe MUST be removed to get the manifold off - unless as you suggest you remove the stud

I went another step further and removed the bracket completely and made  a bracket that clamped to the pipe and then to the manifold stud.

 

Roger

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Hi Alf,

maybe you already planned this but thoroughly clean the threaded hole and the seating face for the olive in the waterpump casing adapter, and then trial fit the nut without the pipe /olive. No sealant is needed, just some copperslip or similar.

Then insert the pipe with nut and olive and push the pipe in as far as it goes, then carefully tighten the nut (and compress the olive wich provides the seal).

Waldi

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I got one from London TR Shop. Fitted no problem.

Alan.

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I followed Waldi's suggestion only to find that there is nominal interference fit e.g. the pipe is 0.25mm larger than the spigot in the new adapter, so some emery paper work required - still working on that.

Now have to follow on Pete's suggestion for the U-shaped hole. Two questions here a) Which side of the that bracket should be U-shaped i.e. the hole for the pipe or the manifold stud.and b) which side of the engine lift bracket does the pipe bracket go? Pondering this leads one to think it may be best to follow Roger's suggestion and do way with the fixed bracket and replace with something else

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I have cut the pipe for length and tried the rough install. Apart from getting the pipe to seat in the adapter, the welded bracket on the new pipe is too long, so more cobbling required and that will depend on which side of the other brackets it should go

The old pipe in situIMG_2989.JPG.667641f07660baaee0a65656b7aca09f.JPG

 

The new pipe approximately in situIMG_2991.JPG.5054eeeaa1d9f6ac680f891ec9c8c1b5.JPG

Looking at all these hassles and according Alan,  I think I'll give TRShop a call......

 

Cheers,

Alf

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Hi Alf,

I can see some problems

1 - what is that black plate, with the hole in, for.   I do not recognise it.

2 - the new pipe with its own attached bracket fits where the black plate is.

 

Remove the black plate. Make the hole in the new pipe's bracket 'U' shaped.  Slacken off the manifold nut and slip the new pipe's bracket where it feels comfy.

 

Roger

 

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Ah, maybe that explains rear part of the problem -- thanks Roger:huh:. I have been trying to figure out how to bolt the pipe bracket to that bracket already attached to the manifold bolt, and there is no easy way other than  to make U-holes in both the pipe bracket and that black bracket, and slide the two together. That is why I responded to Pete in a previous post, that would the U-hole not serve the same purpose as just unbolting at that connection with the black bracket. Maybe the PO added it as a solution???. So I guess that plate is non-stock then.

Thanks again,

Cheers

Alf

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