MOT washer failure.

[Phil H 4]

Having booked my 72 in for its first MOT tomorrow... in since October 1992 when the recorded mileage was 29,096, now 31,505 I thought all the relevant boxes had been ticked.

However as she had not ventured out into the rain for over 25 years the wipers and washer have had little use.

Despite an initial test when the reservoir bottle, motor and jets had been replaced the switches have not been touched. Until tonight that is. The wipers are as expected for the vintage but the issue is with the washers. Having checked all the obvious including connections and with the help of an assistant ( who really wanted to be watching the tennis) pressing the switch whilst I  inspecting the motor the problem appears to be that the motor is running intermittently. Pretty obvious I know but not having much idea about Auto Electrics my concern is that the motor which is a replacement barrel type on a square washer bottle ( supplied by Rimmers) is very hot, too hot to hold.

Guidance from the forum would greatly be appreciated, is the problem the likely to be the motor or an issue with the wiring /switch.

Many thanks in anticipation.

Phil

 

[Graham]

Phil I would in the first instance check if anything is jamming the pump if it's getting that hot its drawing a lot of current if you need a spare in a hurry I may have an old one in the shed but if the mot's tomorrow that may not be any use

[Phil H 4]

Hi Graham,

That's very kind. Having been doing a bit of quick reading previous forums suggest that the pumps can clog up with additives if not used. The Water in the reservoir looks of but ill take another look at the pump. Not sure if its a serviceable item. As I said Auto Electric knowledge  very little, if the pump is drawing a lot of current what does that mean ?

 

[PodOne]

Hi Phil

Had a similar problem with washer additives crystallising inside the pump, If possible strip the pump from the motor and clean it out and drop a bit of WD40 into the motor to oil he bushes, should sort or kill it!

Andy

[Graham]

Phil just been out to the shed and found the pump went to test it and it had sized the motor tried to run but the pump was stuck pulled of both the hoses and gave it a good squirt of wd40 wired it all back up again and it now works so suggest you try the same with your pump and it may well work just make sure you run it to get rid of the oil before you put the pipes back on otherwise you will end up with a very smeary windscreen !

[John Morrison]

If you get a squirt at all at the MOT, then the motor fails, suggest you have

a new one in a box at home, perhaps the tester will be understanding?

John.

[Phil H 4]

Back from the garage.

Thank you all for you input, particularly Graham for venturing down to the shed.

Picture is the offending article, i think..What appears to be a flow restrictor was in the exit pipe, the bore is very small. Not sure why it was there but the washers are now working fine. Need to adjust a little as the boot is getting a good soaking.

Thanks again all.

Phil

[peejay4A]

That’s probably the remains of a non return valve. 

[foster461]

My TR3 went for its annual inspection last week. One of the items on the test is the wipers and washers. This car was fitted with washer jets when new but there was no sign that there was ever a bottle or a pump.

Anyway I fixed that during the resto by adding a Tudor bottle, an electric pump under the dash and a spare starter motor push switch to operate the pump.

On test day the pump whirred and got hot but nothing coming out of the jets. On investigation the check valve on the end of the pick up hose in the bottle was jammed and the pump could not free it. After I operated the check valve a few times the system worked as expected and now squirts washer fluid over the windshield and onto seats.

I'm thinking I can just remove that check valve.

Stan

[keith1948]

Hello Stan

I have the original Tudor bottle with the plunger system on my 4A. The check valve at the bottom of the tube in the bottle is a non return valve for the plunger system. With an electric pump it shouldn't be needed but only if the electric pump remains primed. If the washer fluid drained back into the bottle and the electric pump was empty then it might not work. The electric pump should be below the bottom level of the wash bottle if you take out the non return valve. The check valve is simply a ball in a tube restriction. I have often wondered whether the non return valve from a soap dispenser might work a bit better being all plastic with a glass ball valve.

I never use modern screen wash in my system because it will reduce the rubber bellows in the plunger to a black sticky gunge. A few drops of Fairy liquid is all I use.

Keith

[foster461]

The TR3 washer pump is probably a little above the bottle in the engine bay but I could create a P trap (like a toilet) in the hose so the pump doesnt drain. I need to use washer fluid because whichever TR is in the trailer over the winter is going to get very cold during the New England winter and I may forget to drain the washer system..

I may take a trip to he local NAPA and see what they have for check valves for 3/16 tubing.

Stan

[DRD]

16 hours ago, Phil H 4 said:

Back from the garage.

Thank you all for you input, particularly Graham for venturing down to the shed.

Picture is the offending article, i think..What appears to be a flow restrictor was in the exit pipe, the bore is very small. Not sure why it was there but the washers are now working fine. Need to adjust a little as the boot is getting a good soaking.

Thanks again all.

Phil

That just stops the washer fluid draining back to the tank, I've got one in the outlet pipe and it doesn't cause any problem.

[Phil H 4]

Washer working, wippers of a fashion and a new MOT

[Graham]

excellent news !