Willash1 Posted July 3, 2019 Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 Okay so I'm having some more clutch issues Fork is we're it's ment to be Pivot pin... Not sure if this is my issue New master new slave for tr7 The problem I'm having is after I've bled the system I'm still not getting a proper disengagement from the clutch so that I can select gears When the vehicle was built River v8 3.5 with tr7 gear box 5 speed I was told that the clutch pin needed to be extended, and so it was Only problem I face now is with the new slave I can't get the extended pin in, or am I just being abit soft not pushing hard enough aha this has baffled my head completely Any info would be great If anyone knows the size of the pivot that would be correct for this conversion would be amazing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David James Posted July 4, 2019 Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 Hi again From your earlier post I would think that if the fork is able to move the clutch about an inch after taking up free travel this should be more than enough to free it up for gear selection. Is the clutch plate free of grease/oils etc? The use of the correct gearbox oil is important otherwise selection is difficult. Normally recommended automatic transmission fluid. The gearbox has an internal pump. Can you supply a photo of the assembled bearing carrier etc? Better still a video of the slave cylinder doing its job. Looking at the Triumph parts catalogue the large Pivot Pin part no. UKC13 (V8) is actually shorter than the Pin Part no. UKC1774 (TR7). I have measured a TR7 Pivot Pin and it measures around 50mm overall length from the point of contact to the bell housing to the end of the spherical ball. As mentioned before the mechanism can work with the TR7 Pivot Pin so beware red herrings! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willash1 Posted July 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 The only picture I currently have.... As far as I'm aware the clutch is free of oil and grease, if it wasn't this would cause clutch slip and would mean I could get into gears without much issue And that's the problem I'm having, the clutch isn't engaging enough to get into a gear properly I've ruined a thread on the bellhousing for the slave so time to helicoil that Then try again to see what's going on The only other thing I can think of is the clutch is nackered, but I'm not taking the gearbox out until I've exhausted every other option, as I'm on axel stands on my driveway and my friendly garage is about 30 miles away annoyingly Another thing I'm now thinking is maybe the master cylinder is on its last legs and isn't creating enough pressure to push the slave? Could this be possible? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David James Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 What happens if you put the car in first gear, keep your foot on the clutch and start the engine? Make sure you have a clear safe space in front of you just in case! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 Hi Will, regarding the master cylinder. On the earlier TR's it is important that there is no lost motion in any of the linkages. Make sure all pins and holes are spot on and adjusted correctly. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willash1 Posted July 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 Guys it's all sweet I've fixed the dirty hoe She's working But now that brings me on to me next question.... Do we know of any clutch upgrades As the v8 is giving too much power to put down And a release bearing and clutch fork or full system upgrade?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BusheyTrader Posted July 6, 2019 Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 What's the spec of your V8 to give it too much power to put down? There's plenty of 3.5 to 4.6 litre RV8's powering heavy SD1's and lighter TR7V8's with standard SD1 clutches. These guys have options if you're in need of them. https://www.v8tuner.co.uk/category.php?id=20&page=1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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