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Willash1

Tr7 to v8 clutch

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Okay so I'm having some more clutch issues 

Fork is we're it's ment to be 

Pivot pin... Not sure if this is my issue

New master new slave for tr7 

 

The problem I'm having is after I've bled the system I'm still not getting a proper disengagement from the clutch so that I can select gears 

When the vehicle was built 

River v8 3.5 with tr7 gear box 5 speed

I was told that the clutch pin needed to be extended, and so it was Only problem I face now is with the new slave I can't get the extended pin in, or am I just being abit soft not pushing hard enough aha

this has baffled my head completely 

Any info would be great 

 

If anyone knows the size of the pivot that would be correct for this conversion would be amazing

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Hi again

From your earlier post I would think that if the fork is able to move the clutch about an inch after taking up free travel this should be more than enough to free it up for gear selection.

Is the clutch plate free of grease/oils etc? The use of the correct gearbox oil is important otherwise selection is difficult.

Normally recommended automatic transmission fluid. The gearbox has an internal pump.

Can you supply a photo of the assembled bearing carrier etc?

Better still a video of the slave cylinder doing its job.

Looking at the Triumph parts catalogue the large Pivot Pin part no. UKC13 (V8) is actually shorter than the Pin Part no. UKC1774 (TR7).

I have measured a TR7 Pivot Pin and it measures around 50mm overall length from the point of contact to the bell housing to the end of the spherical ball.

As mentioned before the mechanism can work with the TR7 Pivot Pin so beware red herrings! 

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The only picture I currently have.... 

 

As far as I'm aware the clutch is free of oil and grease, if it wasn't this would cause clutch slip and would mean I could get into gears without much issue 

 

And that's the problem I'm having, the clutch isn't engaging enough to get into a gear properly 

I've ruined a thread on the bellhousing for the slave so time to helicoil that 

Then try again to see what's going on 

The only other thing I can think of is the clutch is nackered, but I'm not taking the gearbox out until I've exhausted every other option, as I'm on axel stands on my driveway and my friendly garage is about 30 miles away annoyingly 

 

Another thing I'm now thinking is maybe the master cylinder is on its last legs and isn't creating enough pressure to push the slave? Could this be possible? 

IMG_20190629_171147.jpg

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What happens if you put the car in first gear, keep your foot on the clutch and start the engine?

Make sure you have a clear safe space in front of you just in case!

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Hi Will,

  regarding the master cylinder. On the earlier TR's it is important that there is no lost motion in any of the linkages.

Make sure all pins and holes are spot on and adjusted correctly.

 

Roger

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Guys it's all sweet I've fixed the dirty hoe :)

She's working 

 

But now that brings me on to me next question.... Do we know of any clutch upgrades 

As the v8 is giving too much power to put down 

And a release bearing and clutch fork or full system upgrade?? 

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What's the spec of your V8 to give it too much power to put down?  There's plenty of 3.5 to 4.6 litre RV8's powering  heavy SD1's and lighter TR7V8's with standard SD1 clutches.  

These guys have options if you're in need of them.    https://www.v8tuner.co.uk/category.php?id=20&page=1

 

 

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