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Couple of problems


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Hi all

As ever, seeking advice: This time on three issues:

- When I start the 6 I have to have the ignition on .i.e. fuel pump running, for at least 3 mins prior to trying the starter - it then starts first time, no problem.  -  Why the need for the delay?

- Car gets very hot when siting in traffic, fine when on open road - It has a new radiator, new thermostat, and it has a supplementary cooling fan  - could it be the water pump needs replacing? If so, is this   an expensive job?

- Overdrive had been working perfectly up to a few weeks or so ago then just stopped - I am suspecting the coil as ammeter indicates the switch working and the gearbox oil level is fine - would this be an expensive job to have done? It looks like the interior gearbox cover has to be removed to gain access. Can the job be carried out from under the car?

Feedback on any of the above would be much appreciated.

Ernest

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51 minutes ago, Ernest said:

Hi all

As ever, seeking advice: This time on three issues:

- When I start the 6 I have to have the ignition on .i.e. fuel pump running, for at least 3 mins prior to trying the starter - it then starts first time, no problem.  -  Why the need for the delay?

What happens if you try to start the car after say 30 seconds?

Is it PI or Carb?

What type of pump - Lucas or Bosch?

- Car gets very hot when siting in traffic, fine when on open road - It has a new radiator, new thermostat, and it has a supplementary cooling fan  - could it be the water pump needs replacing? If so, is this   an expensive job?

What temp rating is the thermostat.

Is the supplementary fan rotating in the correct direction?

- Overdrive had been working perfectly up to a few weeks or so ago then just stopped - I am suspecting the coil as ammeter indicates the switch working and the gearbox oil level is fine - would this be an expensive job to have done? It looks like the interior gearbox cover has to be removed to gain access. Can the job be carried out from under the car?

You need to look at the wiring from the switch all the way down to the solenoid. How are you with electrics?

You will need multimeter.

When you select OD (4th gear engaged, ignotion ON) can you  hear the solenoid pulling in?

If you start by lifting the carpets from the tunel you may find there are access holes to help you.

Most garages will probably do more work than is necessary so it can be heading towards expensive.

It could be anything from a loose connector to a failed component.

 

 

Feedback on any of the above would be much appreciated.

Ernest

Roger

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Hi Roger

Thanks very much for these fulsome responses.  

- P.I. and Fuel-pump Bosch - if  try after 30 sec the starter motor just turns but engine does not fire.

 

- As thermostat new from Moss I assume it the correct temp the car also overheated on the previous one - As Rees Bros. (Aldershot) fitted the fan I am assume it doe rotate in the correct way.

 

- Cant' hear the solenoid trying on any gear.

- Poorish with electrics, no multi meter, and I can only follow o/d connection until the wires disappear into the 'tunnel'.

- no inspection holes - that would have been brilliant! 

- I am always concerned about 'unknown' costs, not with the actual cost of work (good work deserves decent pay) I just don't like going into anything without having some idea of costs - hence the query re. water-pump and solenoid

Thanks again Roger any further feedbck woud be appreciated

Ernest

 

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Hi Ernest,

a simple test for the fan.

Have you got a fan over ride switch (very handy) ? if so turn it on and see if air is blasting through it (rearwards).

Otherwise get it up to temp and then check - MIND YOUR FINGERS

It has been known for the fan to be pushing the air forwards from where it came.

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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" When I start the 6 I have to have the ignition on .i.e. fuel pump running, for at least 3 mins prior to trying the starter - it then starts first time, no problem.  -  Why the need for the delay? "

Hi Ernest,

I've had this issue on my PI system.

I found it was an injector that lost pressure when stopped, even though it was spraying well when running.

To diagnose this fully take all 6 injectors out together, mount them through the top of a small 'ish cardboard box with side cut-out. Turn engine over and watch all 6 spray. Then turn off and watch for any that drip - they are the ones that are losing pressure. You may have to watch for a few minutes to spot the offending ones and you may have more than one doing this - even though they spray well.

Swap them out for refurbed ones and hopefully your start time will be back to normal.

Regards

Bob

 

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Thanks Bob

 

I will give this a try - mind I would have thought if a pressure problem the car would not run all that well?

 

I took it our this morning and, once started (1ist time after the 3 mins), it ran really well. Made me realize why I keep an old car!

Best Wishes

Ernest

 

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