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Pulling hard to one side on braking


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I'm sure this has been covered on other topic strings but my 73 TR6 pulls hard to the left side on braking.  I've bled the brakes all around and looked for leaks; all appears good.  Reservoir at nominal level, pads and callipers look okay.  

The odd thing on top of the imbalanced braking is that it is the right side wheel that seems to be binding a bit after a drive (and I've got it on the lift). So on braking, it pulls to the left but on the lift, the rights side front seems to be binding a bit.   

Any suggestions as to which component may be at fault would be appreciated.  I'm not sure of where to start.

Thanks

BC

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Start by removing the pads from the RH side and clean the surfaces, it maybe just a build up of dirt. See if you can push the pistons back a little in case one is seized. But you may find it is just brake dust etc.

 

Rob

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Sounds like a seized caliper on the right side, all braking effort is happening on the left side causing the car to pull to that side. I'd follow the above advice and remove the pads and see if you can push the pistons back in.

Gareth

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35 minutes ago, Robert Price said:

Start by removing the pads from the RH side and clean the surfaces, it maybe just a build up of dirt. See if you can push the pistons back a little in case one is seized. But you may find it is just brake dust etc.

 

Rob

Thanks Rob; I've already done that.  I'm not sure how much pressure must be applied to push the pistons back.  Should I be able to do this with finger pressure?  If so, this is not the case.

Edited by stillreel
typo
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Probably not with fingers, a spanner/bar yes. 

Maybe compare sides so you can feel how easy it is one side compared to the other. 

Make sure the pads can move when fitted too and are not binding. Refit and use the pedal to push the pistons back onto the disk, you may need to work the piston in and out a few times. 

Did you notice the right side disk was either rusty (little to no contact) or blue (where it's been binding and got hot)? 

Gareth

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13 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Probably not with fingers, a spanner/bar yes. 

Maybe compare sides so you can feel how easy it is one side compared to the other. 

Make sure the pads can move when fitted too and are not binding. Refit and use the pedal to push the pistons back onto the disk, you may need to work the piston in and out a few times. 

Did you notice the right side disk was either rusty (little to no contact) or blue (where it's been binding and got hot)? 

Gareth

Both disks look are clean and rust free.  But the pads a definitely harder to remove on the right (binding) side.  I took the caliper off and gave it a good clean.  All channels are clear and the pistons will move freely in the caliper with the seal removed; that is clearance appears okay.

To add another element, I replaced internal component of the valve assembly last year with no evident issues.  This new braking issue has surfaced this spring.

I feel this is a solvable problem and really don't want to take it to a shop for repair.

Edited by stillreel
clarity
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If you've cleaned it up and got the pads free, have you taken it for a test drive? Might be worth getting someone to press the pedal and see if the wheel locks up on both sides while it's jacked up. 

Also the pads could be contaminated, check the surface carefully or perhaps glazed.

Gareth

Edited by Mk2 Chopper
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Is the flexy hose OK on that side? The brake pressure might be 'ballooning' the hose rather than shifting the piston.

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47 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

If you've cleaned it up and got the pads free, have you taken it for a test drive? Might be worth getting someone to press the pedal and see if the wheel locks up on both sides while it's jacked up. 

Also the pads could be contaminated, check the surface carefully or perhaps glazed.

Gareth

Yes, did that too. Had all four wheels up on blocks and tested the brakes;  good all around.  When released, all wheels spin freely except for front right which was binding.  Took out pads, inspected disk (clean & clear) and replaced; issue persists.  Removed calliper, popped pistons out, cleaned and cleared all channels, re-installed, bleed the brakes then test drive.  While the pistons were out, I removed the seal and checked for clearance between calliper an and piston and it seems ok (moves freely).

Subsequent test drive reveals same pulling to left, though not as severe.  Back home and on the lift again and the binding is still evident on right side.  As you note and I agree, this would point to a right side issue.  But why isn't the piston easing or the pressure releasing.  (I'll open the bleed valve once seized to see if that corrects it, pointing to a piston issue rather than brake fluid pressure)

Rob H suspects flex hose 'ballooning" and I'll check that next time I can get my trusty assistant to help but I'm at the point now where I'm thinking both callipers should be replaced.

Edited by stillreel
clarity
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1 hour ago, Peter Cobbold said:

it might not be brakes. Could be a worn wishbone bush or ball-joint allowing the left wheel to assume the wrong toe-in.

Peter

I replaced the upper wishbone bushings last year and just had a look at them.  They have deteriorated and are falling apart at the upper wishbone arm.  Most likely part of the problem.  Warning to all: don't buy el-cheapo eBay components.  You get what you pay for.  

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1 hour ago, stillreel said:

I replaced the upper wishbone bushings last year and just had a look at them.  They have deteriorated and are falling apart at the upper wishbone arm.  Most likely part of the problem.  Warning to all: don't buy el-cheapo eBay components.  You get what you pay for.  

Repro rubber failing.... yet again. Has the tyre 'shouldered' or have you caught it in time ?

 

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6 hours ago, stillreel said:

But why isn't the piston easing or the pressure releasing.  (I'll open the bleed valve once seized to see if that corrects it, pointing to a piston issue rather than brake fluid pressure)

Rob H suspects flex hose 'ballooning" and I'll check that next time I can get my trusty assistant to help but I'm at the point now where I'm thinking both callipers should be replaced.

The flexi hose is a good place to look, as internally it might not be allowing the pressure to release as well as not allowing the full strength to go to the piston.

If in doubt I'd replace both hoses and see where that gets you, and then the calipers if no improvement. 

Gareth

Edited by Mk2 Chopper
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+1 flexi hose.. then can also collapse internally turning into a kind of one-way valve. This leaves residual pressure in the system which can lead to binding on one side.

Tim

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Just went through that problem with my TR3, car pulling left , everything had been rebuilt last year. Checked everything, bled the system a few times, test drives, the hub was getting extremely hot on the left with a binding noise on the right. Then my local parts guy said switch the pads left to right, see what happens! 20 Minutes later, pads switched...test dive...the dam car went right! New pads problem solved, hubs were nice and cool. The old pads looked OK so still mystified.

Colin

 

 

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  • 4 months later...

Side comment on this topic: had a Morris 1100 with a rear brake problem where they would apply but not release. After many tears of frustration found a flexible hose at the rear subframe where the brake hose had corroded internally at the attaching fitting, and the rust expanding inside the crimp had collapsed the hose because the pilot steel tube inside the end ferrule (used to allow the crimping of the ferrule without closing off the hose)  inside the hose was too short, effectively making the end ferrule a one way valve, so the brakes could be applied, but not released when taking the foot off the brake pedal. There was no sign of this corrosion at the ferrule: it was only found after I sliced the ferrule longitudinally. Hose looked perfectly normal on the car, and the problem was diagnosed by cracking the bleed screw on the rear brakes: this relieved the internal pressure and allowed the shoe springs to push the pistons back into the cylinder body. Absent springs on front brake calipers, this diagnosis won't work for front brakes, but I suggest if you have a dragging front brake try cracking the bleed screw on the side of the road for a few seconds, then tighten. If fluid is expelled then its a sign of the pistons retracting [driven by the seals recovering after they're distorted by the application of piston travel and fluid pressure] and then drive to see if the dragging is still there: if the drag is gone after say 100 metres driving [without applying the brakes of course] the hose is a likely cause. However if it still drags, it's more likely aged piston seals or brake fluid damaged seals [still known to occur with EPDM material seals and some DOT 4 fluids]. 

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Have you checked the rear brakes?  If the RH rear is grabbing then the car will tend to pull to the left.

Probably not the case here, but a friend of mine fitted new shoes to the rear of his classic Chev and could not pass a warrant of fitness test (WOF) on the brake machine due to imbalance in the rears.  Short story, it turned out that the friction material on one set was softer than the other even though they were in identical packaging.  The work was done by two garages (the second found the problem) so cost him a bomb as I recall. 

Edited by KiwiTR6
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I realised that my '6 was pulling hard to the left on moderate to hard braking but could see nothing wrong at the front end. Then a few weeks later I could not get the handbrake to hold on a hill. Took off the rear drums and yes, a leaking brake cylinder had soaked the shoes. New cylinders and shoes both sides and now she brakes straight and the handbrake holds on a good hill. It was clearly a very slow degradation that I had not noticed until it was really bad.

Mick 

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Hi,

Daft question really, but have you checked the tyre pressures?

Kind Regards,

Dave from Spain

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