PodOne Posted June 23, 2019 Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 Evening folk About to weld a new inner lower rear valance in place before I do I want to prep the panel with Bonda Rust as recommended previously. Is this best applied to bare metal or ok to go over the black paint? on the panels after been keyed? Cheers Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted June 23, 2019 Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 Stuart always recommends bare metal, which is what I did on my body tub. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 When i took the , to my eye perfect, nos wings to be fitted to my TR6 last winter the painter insisted in stripping them back to bare metal. he said there was rust under the paint....... steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Unless your fitting modern electrophoretic covered panels (i.e. for a new car) then always bare metal. The black is mostly just a transit primer and I have often found rust underneath it. Some of the new Bastuck panels have a type of green electrocoating that is very thick and Im not keen on it as you obviously need to remove the coating where your welding anyway but it then leaves a deep edge and the fumes from it arent very nice if it gets hot close to the weld. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 If you are talking about BMH Heritage panels they are already electrophoretically dip primed panels, as used by Ford etc. It is not a shipping protective paint as many pattern panel manufacturers use but a quality priming process. I checked with Heritage myself after rubbing down a Mini wing and realised it was more than just a dusting of black paint. I doubt you’d get that quality from a spray gun and shouldn’t need to remove it. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 The black coating on the Heritage panels I bought appeared to be an e-coat, and was pretty tough. On other non-Heritage panels, the identical-looking coating was apparently not e-coat, and was easily attacked with solvents. I think a true e-coat could just be scuffed and over-primed, but many painters will want it removed. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 2 hours ago, ed_h said: The black coating on the Heritage panels I bought appeared to be an e-coat, and was pretty tough. On other non-Heritage panels, the identical-looking coating was apparently not e-coat, and was easily attacked with solvents. I think a true e-coat could just be scuffed and over-primed, but many painters will want it removed. Ed Hi Ed Yes agree a true e-coat should be okay. I did check with BMH by phone today, as I am about to order another panel anyway, and they said all their panels are professional e-coat. On the other hand I bought some Hendrick made panels for another marque and it looks like primer but is only a dusting of black paint and comes off easily. As you say, probably best to leave the e-coat and let the paint shop decide whether to remove or not. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Thanks all for the replies. I think I'll strip off the current black paint back to bear metal and give it a good few coats using a brush so I get a good thick layer as once both valences are together it won't be assessible to blasting. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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