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Dent on rear fin


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Hi

Do any of you have suggestions on the best way to fix this dent which is a bit of a pain to fix as its almost impossible to gt to the back of where this dent is?

Thanks

Rich

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You could try to pull it out by drilling then self tapping, then treat rust and shape with body filler. It’s white so not going to be to difficult to match in

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I assume you want or need to do this without taking the wing off. If so, by all means try to reduce the depression if you can, but I might, by dark of night, just fill it. Yes, it's probably a sin, but not a mortal one.

Ed

Edited by ed_h
forgot this was a mostly UK forum
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With it being on the edge lead loading will give long term excellent non-bodge results, and then an easy spray and blow in, or wing respiratory.

Mick Richards

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Usual way for an inaccessible dent would be clean it up to bare and then weld a washer edge on into the deepest part of the dent then pull out with a slide hammer hooked into the washer then grind off the washer and either lead fill (my preferred option)  or fill and then prime and paint.

Stuart.

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As Mick says lead loading is an option but I don't think you could pull it out with a slide hammer in my opinion, as right on the edge it will just stretch the metal the washer is attached to and not pull out the dent uniformly. It's an awkward dent, and I would think you would have to cut that piece out and make up/ fit a repair section. All options are worth a go though.

It would probably mean wing off for best results and certainly a panel respray.

Kevin 

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Hi Rich,

Ask ten people and you will get 10 different alternatives, we all have our preferences.

I would just sand/ clean to bare metal, feather the existing paint, and  fill with epoxy (etch first if that is required for the epoxy you use).

If you still make a hole,  ensure you close it, if not, that is a guarantee for water ingress and corrosion or paint bulges from moisture.

And clean the surface and spray some wax on the inside too as the paint may have cracked there.

Lead loading certainly is a much better repair, but will increase the repair area and burn off the paint on the inside so if you do not remove the wing, may lead to future issues from that.

But as said, you now have options:)

Cheers,

Waldi

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1 hour ago, Waldi said:

Hi Rich,

Ask ten people and you will get 10 different alternatives, we all have our preferences.

I would just sand/ clean to bare metal, feather the existing paint, and  fill with epoxy (etch first if that is required for the epoxy you use).

If you still make a hole,  ensure you close it, if not, that is a guarantee for water ingress and corrosion or paint bulges from moisture.

And clean the surface and spray some wax on the inside too as the paint may have cracked there.

Lead loading certainly is a much better repair, but will increase the repair area and burn off the paint on the inside so if you do not remove the wing, may lead to future issues from that.

But as said, you now have options:)

Cheers,

Waldi

I agree with Waldi that’s the quickest solution without dismantling. But blowing in and trying to blend with an aerosol is going to give an ‘alright’ finish - possibly!..at best . It’s a minor dent but not a minor job to do correctly unfortunately.

Kevin

Edited by boxofbits
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My local "repairer" is approved by the major car companies (but not Triumph!) and I do the odd electrical maintenance there to keep in with them...........

For this type of ding they have a proprietary spot welder that is used to fix their version of a washer mentioned above. They anchor the car to the floor embedded rail (clamps to sills typically) and spot weld very many tabs that are like a small key (50 mm x 10 mm) and through the holes in these keys, fix a hydraulic puller to them (the other end fixed to the rails) and pull out the ding. Very effective once you've got the kit. The keys are simply rotated to remove them for re-use several times.

The approved filler depth is not to exceed 1 mm................ Apparently, chicken mesh is no longer an approved starting point...................

Regards

Bill  

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Hello Rich,

Bill said:

“For this type of ding they have a proprietary spot welder that is used to fix their version of a washer mentioned above. They anchor the car to the floor embedded rail (clamps to sills typically) and spot weld very many tabs that are like a small key (50 mm x 10 mm) and through the holes in these keys, fix a hydraulic puller to them (the other end fixed to the rails) and pull out the ding. Very effective once you've got the kit. The keys are simply rotated to remove them for re-use several times.”

An alternative would be to buy a felt tip pen and write the word “Ouch” (or “Av” in Danish, if you do not intend to drive out of your country) next to the dent.

I do believe that many people used to do this in the 1970’s, so it would be in keeping with the age of the car.

Charlie

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18 hours ago, Charlie D said:

Hello Rich,

Bill said:

“For this type of ding they have a proprietary spot welder that is used to fix their version of a washer mentioned above. They anchor the car to the floor embedded rail (clamps to sills typically) and spot weld very many tabs that are like a small key (50 mm x 10 mm) and through the holes in these keys, fix a hydraulic puller to them (the other end fixed to the rails) and pull out the ding. Very effective once you've got the kit. The keys are simply rotated to remove them for re-use several times.”

An alternative would be to buy a felt tip pen and write the word “Ouch” (or “Av” in Danish, if you do not intend to drive out of your country) next to the dent.

I do believe that many people used to do this in the 1970’s, so it would be in keeping with the age of the car.

Charlie

:D :D and by far the cheapest solution ..joking aside I did have a similar problem on the front edge of my bonnet (TR4a). I didn’t write ‘ouch’ on it but it was a small repair but a complete panel respray unfortunately..

Edited by boxofbits
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