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Idiots guide to fitting New carpets please!


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Having got my TR6 (which i've owned for 30 years) back on the road last year and mechanically not bad i'm now turning my attention to the interior

I'm looking at fitting new carpets to replace the orginals which are pretty moth eaten and very worn out on mine

I'm pretty handy but was just wondering if somebody that has replaced their carpets could give me a guide as to the challenges I'm likely to face when doing the job?

What materials do I need to buy (apart from the carpets) to do the job? I'm thinking of putting sound deadening underneath the carpet..I notice on my floor plan there are male studs poppers in some places where the original carpet pops into and hold it in place ...Does new carpet come with these or is this something you have to fit on the carpets and floor for the new material.

Is glue required...If so which sort...any additional trim  needed or replaced?...Finally how do you deal with the carpets and where runners bolt through the floor in relation to making holes for the carpets ...or do sets already have the holes predrilled?

 

Many thanks

 

 

 

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If you buy a  carpet kit then you should receive all the poppers/clips etc etc.

The male popper on your floors can be utilised as the female will not be fitted to the carpet upon arrival.

The seat runners are a bu99er.

If you put the seat runner on top of the carpet then this will make removal slow and painful.

You could slit the carpet from the rear so that it slides backwards under the runners. This appears simple but needs to be done carefully.

You may need edge binding and thread if you start to cut the carpets for a better shape.

 

Roger

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Just to clarify, the "fitting kit" is a separate purchase from the carpet set.

I fitted new carpets to my restoration project a few months ago and it is very straightforward. If you google TR6 carpet fitting you will find quite a few helpful instructions such as the one I have attached below. There is no right or wrong way really. I fitted sound deadening and felt underlay under the carpet. The only carpet I glued down was the bit on the rear diff cover/parcel shelf. The rest is held in with the poppers from the fitting kit. Placing the male parts in the correct location on the floor and riveting/screwing them down is tricky but not too difficult.

Cheers,

Sean

 

 

 

642-916_INST.pdf

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25 minutes ago, Dave McDonald said:

Sean,

I don't know what the origin of your attachment is but my McAfee computer virus protector warns me that it's dangerous and that I shouldn't open it!

Dave McD

Funny.

My Iphone opens it without any issue.

Waldi

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Good advice above.

I replaced the carpets on my TR6 about 15 years ago, using a kit and under-felt from Moss. All fitted well. You will need contact adhesive for the sill carpets. I used Evostick Time Bond, as it allows for a bit of adjustment.

And the carpets still look smart after many miles and a couple of soakings.

Nigel

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Finished a full restoration recently, fitting the carpets was the easy bit.

I used spray on contact adhesive where required.

used new underlay.

Few studs to fit which i found easy.

Dave

 

 

IMG_6514.jpg

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Thanks for the replies guys...I've just ordered a set from the TR shop with soundproofing/underlay and a fitting kit. I will use contact adhesive as suggested..

I guess I'm going to have to make some holes in the carpet for bolting the seat runners down... What tool or how did people go about doing that? I realise a stanley blade is an obvious way of doing it...but did folk use another method?

 

Many thanks

 

Edited by jogger321
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If you use contact adhesive, use one that can withstand higher temperatures, not the product that can be used up to only 50-60 degr. C.

if you want to make round holes in the carpet just enough for the bolts so the runners are on top of the carpet, you can use the punches also used to stamp gaskets. Otherwise a stanley knife.

Waldi

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Could I suggest that depending on the materials in the carpets a soldering iron can be used to make nice round bolt holes in nylon carpets and as it melts the carpet it provides a sealed hole through the material with no loose edges to fray.

Alan

 

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12 hours ago, barkerwilliams said:

Could I suggest that depending on the materials in the carpets a soldering iron can be used to make nice round bolt holes in nylon carpets and as it melts the carpet it provides a sealed hole through the material with no loose edges to fray.

Alan

 

Now that’s a good idea and so simple. :rolleyes:

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I use spacers under the seat runners so that they don’t compress the carpet and can be pulled down tight. 

I don’t much like the runners being secured with caged nuts either so I grind them off and use a big washer with a bolt and nylon nut. 

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On ‎6‎/‎14‎/‎2019 at 7:38 PM, Dave McDonald said:

Sean,

I don't know what the origin of your attachment is but my McAfee computer virus protector warns me that it's dangerous and that I shouldn't open it!

Dave McD

Hi Dave,

It came directly from the Moss Motors website and opened without issue for me so hope it didn't cause anyone any problems.

As Nigel says above and I misleadingly forgot to mention, you also need to use contact adhesive on the sill carpets.

Cheers,

Sean

 

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I have recently fitted my carpet set. Super easy. And I am an idiot. I would suggest installing the sound deadening. Can be bought with the carpet. Buy some carpet spray adhesive. Think I was done in 1hr. Dry fit each part to be sure you have the right parts. Go for it. No need to let fear and common sense hold you back. 

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