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Big n' Tall drivers (or passenger)


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Gentlemen , and perhaps the occasional but very special ladies of this parish - I was wondering how the Big n' Tall cope with such small cars ..and furthermore what modifications have you done to make life easier  (..particularly getting in and out)  and of course more comfortable for touring distances.? 

I'm 6' 5" tall, 225 lb, broad on the shoulders, wear UK wide-fitting size 12's,   and ..presuming the transaction goes through am buying a Left Hand Drive TR4A < here >  ..But what you have done to gain more space &/or may have seen that might help me.?   

               re. accommodating the Big n' Tall - this is what I read and seen in pictures so far .. 

 1.  lower / reduce the amount of seat padding.

 2. extend the runners and move the seat further back.  This is likely to mean not having a roll-over bar.

 3.  do without seat runners (to lower it)  and fix the seat further back.

 4. swap to a skinner design of seat, either from an earlier model (which generally have less padding) or else an after market sports or kit car seat

 5. the rear wheel arches can be modified with a dish or a flat in their front face ..to allow the seat to go further back.

 6. the steering columns are adjustable  ..although the TR4 one is bolted in whichever position. 

 7. use a smaller steering wheel, to get legs under the wheel

 8. use a more dished steering wheel ..to bring that back towards one's lap, rather than under knees. 

 9. have a quick release steering wheel, similar to those used in racing cars.

10. Surrey tops may be easier to get in and out of  ??

11. remove the Tr4A's padded door capping

12.  don't lower the suspension right the way down.

               Have I missed any ? 

Being left hand drive and being a 4A - the handbrake will not be against my leg.

              I'm also considering . .

 13. raising the windscreen on a plinth (it is bolt on after all),   or else fitting a taller windscreen off something like a GT6.

             I was wondering about . .

  14. swapping out the steering column for one off another car ..with quick adjustment both Up n' Down &  In n' Out (manual rather than electric / programmed types).

            Surely someone has done this, but I haven't yet seen pictures of it,  nor any discussion.

TBH I would very much like to keep as much of the original TR4 look and feel as possible,  particularly the interior style and the interface with steering and switches, but there's no point in my having a lovely sports car if I struggle every time I climb in it.   p.s.  Dieting has very little effect on my height or shoulder width, and I'm afraid age is a one-way ticket ..although I am managing to keep a good sense of immaturity :P

I would appreciate your comment and suggestions.   

Pete

oh yes I missed this one . .

exit.thumb.PNG.9a370903c52e35a505237f854

Edited by Bfg
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Have a look at the Enginuity web site they have a modification that provides a lot more rearward seat travel

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2 hours ago, Graham said:

Have a look at the Enginuity web site they have a modification that provides a lot more rearward seat travel

went onto their website but don't know where to look for more rearward seat travel

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2 hours ago, John Morrison said:

Had a member who cut and boxed the wheel arch base so the seat went back far enough.

can still have a roll over bar mounted on the rear squab.

John.

as in ;   5. the rear wheel arches can be modified with a dish or a flat in their front face ..to allow the seat to go further back.

Surely mounting a roll over bar onto the rear squab is mounting to a thin panel.?   And any worthwhile roll-over bar should be bolted through the chassis..

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Yes Pete,

but these usually have a decent spreader plate under each pad

and are braced to the wheel arch. I think you are correct in saying better ones pick up the chassis, 

but these are. better than nothing, folk who know more will be along.

On another tack, with your dimensions, getting in and out of the TR, smaller steering wheel - yes, and to get out, Right leg first, Left hand on tunnel, and then backside, this way you keep the Furflex/Trim on the A post,  you won't get away with spinning your legs around whilst sitting on the seat, ask me how I know!

John.

 

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11 minutes ago, Geko said:

16. Buy a german car. And if you want a taste of englishness in your german car, get a Mini 

Try a Daimler SP250 for size. 

Great car, lots of space, lovely v8 and a big boot.

Couple for sale in the H and H Duxford auction. 

Just a thought :ph34r:

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9 hours ago, Bfg said:

went onto their website but don't know where to look for more rearward seat travel

Have a look at https://www.enginuity.co.uk/page4/page9/index.html  'Taller People' 

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5 hours ago, Graham said:

Have a look at https://www.enginuity.co.uk/page4/page9/index.html  'Taller People' 

Thanks Graham,

This is indeed the same as I was referring to in my preliminary list. .

      5. the rear wheel arches can be modified with a dish or a flat in their front face ..to allow the seat to go further back. ? 

Interesting to read " we  have  devised  a method of re-shaping the rear inner wheel arch "  when their accompanying photo (TR5 I believe) shows this modification to have been done a very long while ago,   presumably ..by the still present trim and surface rust,  before they started work in restoring it.  Unless of course this is the condition of one of their own cars. 

stacks-image-7659851.jpg

 

As an aside,  I had noted the square forward edge of the occasional seat shelf has similarly being recessed on TR2's - 3A's  so the seat can go back further.  But I understand the TR4 - TR6 have a little more space just there.  

241166194_TRextraseatroom.jpg.f7e034fa837c46defb0bcff47a38c057.jpg

 

Edited by Bfg
bottom picture added
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4 hours ago, John Morrison said:

Yes Pete,

but these usually have a decent spreader plate under each pad

and are braced to the wheel arch. I think you are correct in saying better ones pick up the chassis, 

but these are. better than nothing, folk who know more will be along.

On another tack, with your dimensions, getting in and out of the TR, smaller steering wheel - yes, and to get out, Right leg first, Left hand on tunnel, and then backside, this way you keep the Furflex/Trim on the A post,  you won't get away with spinning your legs around whilst sitting on the seat, ask me how I know!

John.

 

Thank you John.. I would have clicked on a Thank You smiley but presumably as a coordinator you are not allowed to be thanked for your contribution ! :P

Having studied body lifting and restoration work, I've seen a number of examples where the metal around the body mounts (where bolted to the chassis) has torn.  I've also read that a roll-over bar helps stiffens the body tub up.  Both of which suggests the tub is in itself not structural ..for mounting a safety cage to.   I'm not planning to race the car but I would guess any race-approved roll-over bar would have triangulation anyway.  

Most road-use roll over bar designs also serve for side-impact-protection and again for upper seat belt mountings.  I've just had a look at Revington's website, who offer an impressive range,  but unfortunately so very ugly.    Having ridden motorcycles all of my adult(ish) life and having recklessly driven open tops throughout my youthful years most without roll-over bars then I guess I'll not be fitting one to my 4A. 

On the starboard tack . .  actually port tack as mine is LHD but I get the point..   Thanks, yep I think you're right there.  I have fabric seats in one of my other car and there's next to no swiveling on those.  Another has leather seats (thankfully with heat elements), and they work well for a twirl but they are not sitting low to the floor within the tight confines of a b-post, tunnel with handbrake lever,  low dashboard and wheel.     I think I'll get into the swing of things soon enough, much to the amusement no doubt of some of my unkind friends who laugh as I uncurl myself and roll out onto the floor.    :lol:

 

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.

3 hours ago, Geko said:

15. Flip the door opening handle upwards 

16. Buy a german car. And if you want a taste of englishness in your german car, get a Mini 

15. Flip  (or rotate)  the door opening handle  - That's a nice n' simple suggestion - thanks

16. Buy a german car   -  Nah  contrary to the prerequisite   " I would very much like to keep as much of the original TR4 look and feel (driving) as possible"

3 hours ago, Hamish said:

Try a Daimler SP250 for size. 

Great car, lots of space, lovely v8 and a big boot.

Couple for sale in the H and H Duxford auction. 

Just a thought :ph34r:

Go wash you mouth out with bath salts ! :D 

I do think Turner's V8 is a great little engine, tied into a manual gearbox that would be a nice drive.  And the sp250 does look to have a more space under the dash  (I hadn't realised just how similar its styling is to the MGA), but I just couldn't live with the Bat-mobile looks of the car as a whole. 

image808012016230353.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, Bfg said:

Thanks Graham,

This is indeed the same as I was referring to in my preliminary list. .

      5. the rear wheel arches can be modified with a dish or a flat in their front face ..to allow the seat to go further back. ? 

Interesting to read " we  have  devised  a method of re-shaping the rear inner wheel arch "  when their accompanying photo (TR5 I believe) shows this modification to have been done a very long while ago,   presumably ..by the still present trim and surface rust,  before they started work in restoring it.  Unless of course this is the condition of one of their own cars. 

stacks-image-7659851.jpg

 

As an aside,  I had noted the square forward edge of the occasional seat shelf has similarly being recessed on TR2's - 3A's  so the seat can go back further.  But I understand the TR4 - TR6 have a little more space just there.  

 

I may be wrong but I don't think they are the same car the picture above I believe is a RHD 250 modified in the late 80's early 90's but something has just come to mind. The car in the picture is fitted with a back light(surrey top) and in a soft top car the space needed for folded hood frame may be an issue to be considered.(shoulder room) 

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1 hour ago, Bfg said:

Go wash you mouth out with bath salts ! :D 

I do think Turner's V8 is a great little engine, tied into a manual gearbox that would be a nice drive.  And the sp250 does look to have a more space under the dash  (I hadn't realised just how similar its styling is to the MGA), but I just couldn't live with the Bat-mobile looks of the car as a whole. 

To be fair I did sell my SP250 to get my 3a  so I could join in with the sprint and hill climb fun that the TRR organises !

Plenty of space tho - 

(I’m the youngest in the pic!!!)

1A152B46-341D-4E51-9DFC-DEAA2C8372D6.jpeg

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Hey, no worries man..  I too reckon it a fantastic photo so bring 'em on B)  

I have a similar photo of my dad and two brothers and I all peering around the corner of a wall from when I was very likle indeed  ..and again many years later when I had out grown the lot of 'em. 

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On 6/12/2019 at 4:18 AM, Bfg said:

As an aside,  I had noted the square forward edge of the occasional seat shelf has similarly being recessed on TR2's - 3A's  so the seat can go back further.  But I understand the TR4 - TR6 have a little more space just there.  

241166194_TRextraseatroom.jpg.f7e034fa837c46defb0bcff47a38c057.jpg

 

This is my photo, and my car.   The seat rails were mounted rearward to take advantage of this body tub mod.   I'm 6' 6" and have more legroom in my TR3B than any car I own.  

Edited by Don H.
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I have a standard TR3 and TR6, both with original seats. To be comfortable I have to have the TR6 seat all the way back until it hits the rear wheel arch which is the last notch in the seat runner, clutch pedal goes to the floor easily. If I do this with the TR3 I can't get the clutch pedal down far enough. I think therefore there is more room in the 3 than the 6, apart from the big steering wheel. 

Mick

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49 minutes ago, Don H. said:

This is my photo, and my car.   The seat rails were mounted rearward to take advantage of this body tub mod.   I'm 6' 6" and have more legroom in my TR3B than any car I own.  

I do hope you don't mind my borrowing, and editing your photo to illustrate the very neat modifications you did.  

I once had a Tr3 (small mouth) and then an early TR4  and don't recall issues with footwell length.  I'd guess LHD is better for slipping the clutch foot around and passed the pedals.   Of course the later TR's had deeper seat-backs  so need to sit further rearward for the same driver's position (same leg and arm reach).   

6'-6"  huh..  wind in the hair then. B)   I didn't have a top on my 3  ..so through the winter used to wear a crash helmet to help keep m' bonce warm.

 

56 minutes ago, Mick Forey said:

I have a standard TR3 and TR6, both with original seats. To be comfortable I have to have the TR6 seat all the way back until it hits the rear wheel arch which is the last notch in the seat runner, clutch pedal goes to the floor easily. If I do this with the TR3 I can't get the clutch pedal down far enough. I think therefore there is more room in the 3 than the 6, apart from the big steering wheel. 

Mick

I thought I'd read that the length of the later car's interior was longer.  Clearly in comparing (photos of my last post) the rear shelf edge relative to the inner wheel-arch is quite different,  so possibly just the floor panel was extended back ?  ..more as a marketing claim than of much practical use ..unless for small feet of one person seated across wise.  

 

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21 minutes ago, Bfg said:

I do hope you don't mind my borrowing, and editing your photo to illustrate the very neat modifications you did.  

I once had a Tr3 (small mouth) and then an early TR4  and don't recall issues with footwell length.  I'd guess LHD is better for slipping the clutch foot around and passed the pedals.   Of course the later TR's had deeper seat-backs  so need to sit further rearward for the same driver's position (same leg and arm reach).   

6'-6"  huh..  wind in the hair then. B)   I didn't have a top on my 3  ..so through the winter used to wear a crash helmet to help keep m' bonce warm.

Feel free to use the photo at will -- that's why I posted it.  The reference to my car and photo archive was for those who are yet to read this thread and may want more information (like, for example, how I carpeted over the mod.)

Foot room is no doubt tighter than leg room.  I can't for example, wear my steel-toed boots and safely drive the TR.  I'll bet LHD is better -- it's been a long time since I've driven RHD, so I've lot track of the comparison.

Yes, definitely a bit of wind in my hair!

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.

so my busy little mind is fritting away daylight hours .. 

Ding   I've had an idea !  I'd jumped in me other car (..a well traveled Chrysler Voyager) the other day and adjusted the steering column (for motorway driving position rather than town).. and then it clicked  " Why not have an adjustable steering column in the TR ?"    One that goes in and out  (..but doesn't wobble all about )  and also which tilts sharply.   That way I could tilt it up to aid my gravity bulge, bandy legs and size 13's when getting in and out, but then also be comfortable when driving.

So the existing steering column is one piece from the wheel to through the bulkhead, and then a double UJ coupling piece from there to the steering rack mounted in front of the engine.   

  PIC_0798.jpg

and although I don't know what I'm talking about .. I'm thinking something like this 

s-l1600.jpg

..with the Triumph switches and steering wheel spline grafted on.  

Has something like this been done ?  ..or else can anyone advise which second-hand column I might best look out for.. it being particularly compact, reliable,  easily adapted, etc.  ?  

Thanks.

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The original 1954-1957 Mercedes-Benz 300SL had a truly interesting tilting wheel to make ingress/egress easier.  Something like that might be easier to fab for a TR than other options.

i-vBcgTdq-X2.jpg

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I needed more legroom in my 4, I got enough by fitting MX5 seats and a smaller steering wheel. There was an old thread which included some measurements from the seatback to the he pedals which may be helpful

...... Andy 

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