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Rear wiring loom replacement on a TR 6


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I have to replace the rear of my wiring loom as the current one is toast and resembles several colours of plastercine mixed together with the odd bits of naked bare wire showing.  I had to jury rigg brake  lights to go our last run and amazingly the rear lights worked !!

Am I likely to hit any problems and does it matter which way I feed the loom ?  Start from rear or the front ? Is there a correct route for the loom as I don't  know if mine current  loom is routed correctly.

As ever, any  wisdom or tips are very welcome !!

  MARK

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This may not help but I had a need to replace the wiring in the boot of my car (body shop managed to put a number plate screw into the wiring) and I didn't fancy replacing the whole loom. Basically, I cut all the wires on the original loom about a foot into the boot on the nearside and 'soldered on' the new wiring, having already routed it through the various nooks and crannies.  Much quicker and far less bother for me.   May not suit you, of course.

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Mark,

replacing the rear loom is not too difficult.

The idea from Alfrom above may be a good alternative, depending on the condition. But since you indicate several naked wires, they may have been burnt from high currents in the past.

You have to remove some carpets/panels, but noting too difficult.

If you have a PI with Bosch pump you can consider installing a thicker wire and relay for the  while replacing the rear loom, which starts at the A-post.

The Haynes manual shows the route/lay-out, more or less.

While you are at it, check the earthing to both rear lights/all bulbs is sound.

Waldi

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If your rear loom is bad then whats the front one like? If its the same condition then your better off replacing them both.

Stuart.

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The back part is fairly straight forward compared to the rest, but if I was you I'd replace the whole lot as mentioned above.

In fact I am replacing the whole lot at the moment.

It's not too difficult - I am enjoying it when I do get chance to do it.

Rog

 

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Hi Mark

 

I have recently replaced both front and rear wiring looms on an ex 1975 US TR6 converted to RHD.

 

First I down loaded a 1975 US and UK wiring diagram to check the differences, quite a few.

 

I purchased my car from a so called restorer, I now think he has gone out of business, a very good job.

 

He was not a Triumph specialist and very unlikely to be known in the UK TR community.

 

When he rewired the TR6 after a restoration he just butchered the front and rear looms, the reason I rewired the car.

 

I found over 60 non-standard new bullet connectors, terrible, and items like the interior lights, glove box light, instrument lights, brake warning light, some heater ducting missing, etc etc, all now replaced by me.

 

Mark if you think you are competent to rewire your car I think it is quite an easy job, especially the rear loom.

 

This job will take a little time and you are bound to come up against a few problems on the way, (should only be the front loom) but none will be that hard to overcome.

 

I purchased an age related front and rear UK loom from Moss, and had no trouble with the looms themselves at all.

 

I am 100% with Stuart do both.

 

I removed both seats, I think a must, but you only need to remove the passenger seat to do the rear loom.

 

You start from the front and work back, a new loom can only go one route, due to the length of wires etc.

 

The rear loom can be done in a day and is easy, you need to remove the near side front foot well panel, and loosen the near side rear panel over the rear wheel arch, and remove the near side soft top or hard top bracket, the loom is tucked under the small strip of carpet, running from the front to back passenger side.

 

You will need to remove all your boot kit and take the job from there.

 

US cars have carburettors, the new UK loom has the supply for the rear fuel pump. 

I do not see any need for an uprated gauge wire to the fuel pump on a new wiring loom.  

 

I added an extra supply to the side indicators not fitted to the UK cars. US cars have red rear side lights.

 

The front will take a couple of days at least, but well worth doing, mine took a little longer due to the difference between US and UK cars, but mainly due to what else was missing.

 

You will need to remove the dash and radiator shroud, I also took out the big radio Y piece bolted to the floor to access the reversing light supply, and if fitted overdrive supply, only to find my gear box tunnel in a terrible condition, if you like to swear this job will make you, I purchased a plastic tunnel from Moss and am very happy with the result, but what a bxxxxxd job.  

 

I replaced the glove box light and switch, the interior lights and door switches, and dash board lights, (all supplies in the new loom).

 

I added a brake failure test light, and being a carpenter I made new side speaker panels and cut in 12 volt led lights with an extra interior switch, so no need to open the door to get them to come on, a great addition, I put in a 4 way USB supply, a new front supply to a front fuel pump that I had, had fitted, plus an 8 way fuse box, job done.

 

Of course it was not quite that easy, I found the odd electrical item broken, that had to be replaced, but I am now very satisfied with my TR6.

 

Reading Alfrom’s tip, it reminded me someone had written, it is a good idea when removing the old loom, cut it out leaving 6 inches of wire still connected to the electrical fittings to make it easy to know where to replace all the connectors, I did not do this as the wiring diagram did the job for me.

 

If you can somehow give me your phone number I am happy to talk if necessary.

Edited by Triumph
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Thanks very much for the words of wisdom. Stuart - as ever - would make sense to replace whole loom but as I had the car interior totally stripped out last year for repairs to heater plenum and bulkhead  I think I fixed  most front wiring issues to the front. This included replacing  most of the connectors ! Extremely time consuming

On 6/11/2019 at 3:39 PM, Waldi said:

Mark,

replacing the rear loom is not too difficult.

The idea from Alfrom above may be a good alternative, depending on the condition. But since you indicate several naked wires, they may have been burnt from high currents in the past.

You have to remove some carpets/panels, but noting too difficult.

If you have a PI with Bosch pump you can consider installing a thicker wire and relay for the  while replacing the rear loom, which starts at the A-post.

The Haynes manual shows the route/lay-out, more or less.

While you are at it, check the earthing to both rear lights/all bulbs is sound.

Waldi

Rear loom replaced  and  all working now. Just one or two issues with earths and old bulb holders !

Much thanks for advice ! Just need to replace trim now !

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