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KONI Adjustment


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I have KONI Classic dampers on all four corners, these were supplied by CTM Engineering along with their conversion brackets & uprated lowered springs.

I'm finding the ride very harsh. I set them to whatever it was CTM advised (can't remember?), I'd like to alter the setting, so can anyone with a similar suspension set-up advise on what they found to be a good setting.

P.S.

The dampers are of the kind where you close both halves and adjust by turning clockwise or anti-clockwise, no the click or count the notches type.

Richard.

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Hi Richard

I fitted my Konis several years ago (all four corners) and set them at the half way point of adjustment - as a starting point. However, I found the ride to be ‘firm’ but comfortable, so have left them at that!

Cheers

Ian

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Thanks Ian,

Excuse me for asking the obvious, so what did you do, count the revolutions from the hardest to the softest setting and gauge your half way point from there and are you using uprated lowered springs? My springs are about 1" shorter than standard (I think?).

Richard.

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Yes - you remove the nylon washer (and rubber one if fitted) Press the koni's closed - this allows the lugs to engage which when turned proves the adjustment.

Once engaged turn fully anticlockwise and then fully clockwise - counting the revolutions. Then pick a point in-between as your starting point , - set both to this - replace the washer and try it.

If too firm - reduce, if too bouncy stiffen up. It's a bit of a pain as to do each adjustment you have to, jack up the car, disconnect the top mount of the Koni, adjust and reconnect.

That's why I wouldn't fit front Koni's again- you have remove completely (as they are within the spring) just to adjust them.

 

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Typically for road use, when not carrying a lot of weight ( ie luggage !!) with lowered thus possibly up rated springs you want to go softer. 1/3 to 1/4  of the range from the softest  side.

 

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Hi,

my TR4A came with Konis on the rear axle. 

They was 2.25 turns from strongest to softest, full opened still too strong for me.

So I switched over to leaver arm shock absorbers with standard setting.

That's fine for me. The car is soft enough and I never had any rolling at any speed.

Later I have been told by a relaiable person, the Konis we buy for our TRs are original made to fit the Bedford CF van front axle.

Bonfire chatter or not?

I don't know.

Ciao, Marco 

Edited by Z320
My bad englich writing
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I never understood the hype for the KONI.

There is a huge difference between their "normal" street dampers

and the famous KONI race dampers.

 

KONIs have two tubes, inside the pretty small tube sits another even smaller tube what is the damper.

From that reason the KONI can carry only one real valve in the piston. There is not enough space.

And this valve also is a bit small for the purpose. Big valves provide riding comfort at heavy bumps

because they open and release the oil more quickly allowing the strut to fly into the damper. As

it is the rebound valve that is not such a strong problem.

 

The bounce valve is at the bottom and more or less only a orifice without springs.

 

So the KONIs mostly work on rebound. That has the disadvantage that with several bumps

following the spring compresses and the car lowers. The bump stops are hit and springs get hard

what is bad for riding comfort.

So from my understanding the Koni should not be combined with lowered springs and if

they should be pretty open, not closed.

 

I can say that a modern BILSTEIN or SACHS can do much more referring to riding comfort plus roadholding.

The car rides more comfortable on bumps than with stock levers and keeps the car strong on the road without

moving and making motion by itself when driven fast.

 

I would recommend to mark the bump stops front and rear, drive and check if the stops are hit

under normal driving. If so I would add spacers under the springs or better aim for springs

that are not lowering the car that much and are not too hard because that robs riding comfort.

 

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15 hours ago, Richard71 said:

Thanks Ian,

Excuse me for asking the obvious, so what did you do, count the revolutions from the hardest to the softest setting and gauge your half way point from there and are you using uprated lowered springs? My springs are about 1" shorter than standard (I think?).

Richard.

Hi Richard

Yes, just counted the number of complete revolutions and set half way... I have standard springs... I think!

Cheers

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Hi Richard

Hope to see you out and about this Summer.

I've got them on all 4 corners as well,and there a pain. I did play around with them for a while,but ended up setting them all at there softest and left them alone. These days I'm becoming more interested in comfort, must be getting old.

See you soon

 

Cameron

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I managed a short 15 minute run out in the 6 this afternoon, I've adjusted (rear only) the dampers to the halfway setting and what a transformation!!!

I found a note with the settings advised by CTM, they were set and maximum stiffness and backed off 1/4 turn, that was much too harsh, running over a cats-eye was quite a thud, even with MX5 seats.

I'll run like this for a while before tampering with the front dampers.

Thanks to all for your input.

Richard.

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I found that the ‘half-way’ setting as originally set is firm but certainly not harsh... Pleased to hear you’ve found something you like!

Cheers

Ian

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Hi Richard

I too bought the CTM brackets and their spec Konis. These are different from most other supplier bracket/shock absorber combinations. I queried this at the time, but was assured they are right and others are wrong. So taking them at their word, I fitted these to a TR5 and set the Konis to the softest setting. The ride was not good. It was far to hard and seemed to be harder on the bounce back, rather than the downward stroke. In comparison I have a different supplier set up on my 6. Probably from the TR shop. They have been on that car for years. No issues whatsoever.  Anyway, in the end I got fed up with the ride on the 5, and returned back to standard shocks and set up.  Now all good and normal thank goodness. So I suggest, get rid of the CTM stuff and either go with another suppler/set up or go back to standard. 

best Bill 

 

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