Richardtr3a Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 Please can you let me know the correct drill size for a 1/4 BSF tap. I hope to fix it tomorrow Thanks Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 (edited) Hi Richard, 5.3mm 7/32 will work Roger Edited June 8, 2019 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David B2 Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 Richard, My 'Mechanical World Year Book, 1969' says 13/64th. (.2031"). or 5.3mm (.2087") David B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 or No. 6 Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 Thanks for the help. The forum is great. At our local steam fair there was a tool stall. They had some imperial drill bits in packs of 10 ,all the same size, for £2.00. I bought a few at random and after searching the garage I found a pack of 7/32" So I am on the road by this evening. Thanks Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 9, 2019 Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 Where on a TR are you needing to use 1/4 BSF? Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Good question! Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 I've never noticed any but they are shown in the Standard Triumph hardware catalog: Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 The connecting short link rod assembly has a threaded end to the ball joint. The Bell Crank Lever Assembly had a small hole. So since I had to drill it out I decided to tap the thread and make the assembly more secure. The lever bought from a large supplier was made with the raised bush, to clear the fixing bolt for the pivot bracket, was raised on the wrong side, I had my local welder change it. The reason for my drill packs of ten bits, were only £2.00 is because they overheat before you have finished the first hole. You get what you pay for. Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Hi Richard, I had some of those drills Righthand, lefthand and straight flute all on the same drill Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 13 hours ago, Richardtr3a said: The connecting short link rod assembly has a threaded end to the ball joint. The Bell Crank Lever Assembly had a small hole. So since I had to drill it out I decided to tap the thread and make the assembly more secure. The lever bought from a large supplier was made with the raised bush, to clear the fixing bolt for the pivot bracket, was raised on the wrong side, I had my local welder change it. The reason for my drill packs of ten bits, were only £2.00 is because they overheat before you have finished the first hole. You get what you pay for. Richard & B. No, I still cannot understand why you have chosen BSF instead of UNF If the connecting ball joint you mention is the throttle control vertical rod then that is 1/4 UNF. I have a dwindling stock of NOS ball on the stud for the throttle control and they are UNF. Also with a nut on the back will the bell crank clear the mounting plate when rotated? Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 You are quite right. My mistake in the first post. The set up is complete and works well. I do need two more ball/stud and the long rod to replace mine which was home made years ago and will soon wear out. Bell crank is now working as designed. After a vary busy few days I have fitted the bonnet and windscreen and made it to the SDG annual Cannonball run last night. Sun out and many cars including TR7 Cola car, Porsche and a lowered VW beetle. Great drive. After having the scuttle painted last week I have refitted the capping and lost the button/rod which opens the vent. It is in the garage but has disappeared. Where can I find another? Sorry about BSF should be UNF Thanks Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2019 After two evenings looking for the vent pull rod, I gave up and was about to close the order with Moss but was held back by the £5.00 postage. This morning I moved the socket extensions to get the socket case out and there it was. If you stop looking you find it ??? Thanks for all the advice so far but there will be more. Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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