Drill size

[Richardtr3a 13]

Please can you let me know the correct drill size for a 1/4 BSF tap.  I hope to fix it tomorrow

Thanks Richard & B.

[RogerH 402]

Hi Richard,

 

5.3mm 

 

7/32 will work 

 

Roger

Edited June 8 by RogerH

[David B2 1]

Richard,

My 'Mechanical World Year Book, 1969' says

13/64th. (.2031"). or 5.3mm (.2087")

David B

[Lebro 135]

or No. 6 

Bob.

[Richardtr3a 13]

Thanks for the help. The forum is great.

At our local steam fair there was a tool stall. They had some imperial drill bits in packs of 10 ,all the same size, for £2.00. I bought a few at random and after searching the garage I found a pack of 7/32" So I am on the road by this evening.

Thanks Richard & B.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT 71]

Where on a TR are you needing to use 1/4 BSF?

 

Peter W

[tim hunt 24]

Good question!

Tim

[TomMull 2]

I've never noticed any but they are shown in the Standard Triumph hardware catalog:

 

Tom

[Richardtr3a 13]

The connecting short link rod assembly has a threaded end to the ball joint. The Bell Crank Lever Assembly had a small hole. So since I had to drill it out I decided to tap the thread and make the assembly more secure.

The lever bought from a large supplier was made with the raised bush, to clear the fixing bolt for the pivot bracket, was raised on the wrong side, I had my local welder change it.

The reason for my drill packs of ten bits, were only £2.00 is because they overheat before you have finished the first hole. You get what you pay for.

Richard & B.

[RogerH 402]

Hi Richard,

I had some of those drills Righthand, lefthand and straight flute all on the same drill   

 

Roger

[BlueTR3A-5EKT 71]

13 hours ago, Richardtr3a said:

The connecting short link rod assembly has a threaded end to the ball joint. The Bell Crank Lever Assembly had a small hole. So since I had to drill it out I decided to tap the thread and make the assembly more secure.

The lever bought from a large supplier was made with the raised bush, to clear the fixing bolt for the pivot bracket, was raised on the wrong side, I had my local welder change it.

The reason for my drill packs of ten bits, were only £2.00 is because they overheat before you have finished the first hole. You get what you pay for.

Richard & B.

No, I still cannot understand why you have chosen BSF instead of UNF   If the connecting ball joint you mention is the throttle control vertical rod then that is 1/4 UNF.  I have a dwindling stock of NOS ball on the stud for the throttle control and they are UNF.   Also with a nut on the back will the bell crank clear the mounting plate when rotated?

Cheers

Peter W

[Richardtr3a 13]

You are quite right. My mistake in the first post. The set up is complete and works well. I do need two more ball/stud and the long rod to replace mine which was home made years ago and will soon wear out. Bell crank is now working as designed.

After a vary busy few days I have fitted the bonnet and windscreen  and made it to the SDG annual Cannonball run last night. Sun out and many cars including TR7 Cola car, Porsche and a lowered VW beetle. Great drive.

After having the scuttle painted last week I have refitted the capping and lost the button/rod which opens the vent. It is in the garage but has disappeared. Where can I find another?

Sorry about BSF should be UNF

Thanks Richard & B.

[Richardtr3a 13]

After two evenings looking for the vent pull rod, I gave up and was about to close the order with Moss but was held back by the £5.00 postage.

This morning I moved the socket extensions to get the socket  case out and there it was. If you stop looking you find it ???

Thanks for all the advice so far but there will be more.

Richard & B.