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Distributor Drive Shaft End Float


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Hi All,

I am trying to establish what gasket thickness I need to use on my CP Pi Metering unit pedestal.

I have followed instructions as per the brown book as follows:-

I used a spacer between the oil pump shaft bush and the pedestal drive shaft, the thickness measures 0.060"

I measured the gap between the block flange and pedestal, this is 0.063"

I don't fully understand the next stage, anybody have an idea what thickness of gaskets I need between the block flange and pedestal base ?

Thanks for any input / advice.

Mark.

 

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The shaft should have a float of 0.005" , so from your calculation a gasket of 0.002"is needed, you have a gap greater than the washer 0.003"  so + 0.002" gasket is needed to equal 0.005"

Hope that helps

John

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Mark, to add to John’s analysis:

Since it is difficult to measure the cleance precisely, when you tighten the pedestal to the block with the 0.005” thick gasket, check if the gear can still move freely, rotationally (within the clearance between the teeth from the cam shaft gear and drive. This ensures the gear is not locked up axially, which will result in damage.

Waldi

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Thanks John, Waldi,

just a couple more questions please if you don't mind.

(1)  With the spacer washer in place, and before measuring the gap between the pedestal and block flange, how tight should the pedestal be pulled down ? Brown book is unclear.

(2)  Waldi, how do I check if the gear drive moves freely after fitting the gaskets, just by hand turning the engine using the fan blade ?

Thanks very much, appreciate your input - just want to get it right before the next step - fitting and timing the metering unit.

Have a good weekend.

Mark.

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Hi Mark,

better ask/check than assume:)

Re#1: if you tighten the pedestal evenly with low torque that should be enough, you just need to remove all clearance. And make sure the spacer (ring) you use is flat, not cupped as this will lead to false results.

Re#2: I did this by turning (wiggling?) the gear in the pedestal itself, so you have a better feel opposed to turning the crank shaft.

regards,

Waldi

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14 hours ago, Waldi said:

Hi Mark,

better ask/check than assume:)

Re#1: if you tighten the pedestal evenly with low torque that should be enough, you just need to remove all clearance. And make sure the spacer (ring) you use is flat, not cupped as this will lead to false results.

Re#2: I did this by turning (wiggling?) the gear in the pedestal itself, so you have a better feel opposed to turning the crank shaft.

regards,

Waldi

Thanks Waldi, really appreciate your advice.

All the best.

Mark.

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21 hours ago, Waldi said:

Hi Mark,

better ask/check than assume:)

Re#1: if you tighten the pedestal evenly with low torque that should be enough, you just need to remove all clearance. And make sure the spacer (ring) you use is flat, not cupped as this will lead to false results.

Re#2: I did this by turning (wiggling?) the gear in the pedestal itself, so you have a better feel opposed to turning the crank shaft.

regards,

Waldi

Nope your wrong big time you must have clearance or good bye cam and dog drive.Use a dial gauge and rotate engine. 

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Hi Neil,

I think that is what I wrote in my first response.

The “wiggle” is a secondary check that there is indeed clearance.

Are you using a dial gauge to measure the axial clearance after fitting the gasket and tightening the pedestal??

Regards,

Waldi

 

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The pedestal must be fully torqued like later in use.

It should not be removed and bolted again without test

because the gaskets get compressed each time.

 

Add a screwdriver in the slit for the distributor and turn.

That lets the gear move up and down.

 

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18 hours ago, ntc said:

Nope your wrong big time you must have clearance or good bye cam and dog drive.Use a dial gauge and rotate engine. 

Hi ntc,

How do I check with a dial gauge, is there a written procedure anywhere ?

Regards.

Mark.

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On 6/9/2019 at 10:30 PM, TriumphV8 said:

The pedestal must be fully torqued like later in use.

It should not be removed and bolted again without test

because the gaskets get compressed each time.

 

Add a screwdriver in the slit for the distributor and turn.

That lets the gear move up and down.

 

+1 Worked for me....thanks Andreas

Jochem

 

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20 hours ago, JochemsTR said:

+1 Worked for me....thanks Andreas

Jochem

 

Easiest solutions often work nice :-)

Another interesting test for you:

Make a trigger connection of the EFI via the distributor.

You will now get the whole delay in triggering from chain and these toothed gears.

Also some delay in the electronics might occure.....

 

You can watch that by setting a fixed timing in the EFI and strobe the pulley.

 

My engine made a delay of about 4 degrees on higher revs.

Whereever it comes from, it is interesting to see....

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