Mark Ogram Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 Hi All, I am trying to establish what gasket thickness I need to use on my CP Pi Metering unit pedestal. I have followed instructions as per the brown book as follows:- I used a spacer between the oil pump shaft bush and the pedestal drive shaft, the thickness measures 0.060" I measured the gap between the block flange and pedestal, this is 0.063" I don't fully understand the next stage, anybody have an idea what thickness of gaskets I need between the block flange and pedestal base ? Thanks for any input / advice. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 The shaft should have a float of 0.005" , so from your calculation a gasket of 0.002"is needed, you have a gap greater than the washer 0.003" so + 0.002" gasket is needed to equal 0.005" Hope that helps John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 Mark, to add to John’s analysis: Since it is difficult to measure the cleance precisely, when you tighten the pedestal to the block with the 0.005” thick gasket, check if the gear can still move freely, rotationally (within the clearance between the teeth from the cam shaft gear and drive. This ensures the gear is not locked up axially, which will result in damage. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Ogram Posted June 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 Thanks John, Waldi, just a couple more questions please if you don't mind. (1) With the spacer washer in place, and before measuring the gap between the pedestal and block flange, how tight should the pedestal be pulled down ? Brown book is unclear. (2) Waldi, how do I check if the gear drive moves freely after fitting the gaskets, just by hand turning the engine using the fan blade ? Thanks very much, appreciate your input - just want to get it right before the next step - fitting and timing the metering unit. Have a good weekend. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 Hi Mark, better ask/check than assume:) Re#1: if you tighten the pedestal evenly with low torque that should be enough, you just need to remove all clearance. And make sure the spacer (ring) you use is flat, not cupped as this will lead to false results. Re#2: I did this by turning (wiggling?) the gear in the pedestal itself, so you have a better feel opposed to turning the crank shaft. regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Ogram Posted June 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 14 hours ago, Waldi said: Hi Mark, better ask/check than assume:) Re#1: if you tighten the pedestal evenly with low torque that should be enough, you just need to remove all clearance. And make sure the spacer (ring) you use is flat, not cupped as this will lead to false results. Re#2: I did this by turning (wiggling?) the gear in the pedestal itself, so you have a better feel opposed to turning the crank shaft. regards, Waldi Thanks Waldi, really appreciate your advice. All the best. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted June 9, 2019 Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 21 hours ago, Waldi said: Hi Mark, better ask/check than assume:) Re#1: if you tighten the pedestal evenly with low torque that should be enough, you just need to remove all clearance. And make sure the spacer (ring) you use is flat, not cupped as this will lead to false results. Re#2: I did this by turning (wiggling?) the gear in the pedestal itself, so you have a better feel opposed to turning the crank shaft. regards, Waldi Nope your wrong big time you must have clearance or good bye cam and dog drive.Use a dial gauge and rotate engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 9, 2019 Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 Hi Neil, I think that is what I wrote in my first response. The “wiggle” is a secondary check that there is indeed clearance. Are you using a dial gauge to measure the axial clearance after fitting the gasket and tightening the pedestal?? Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted June 9, 2019 Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 The pedestal must be fully torqued like later in use. It should not be removed and bolted again without test because the gaskets get compressed each time. Add a screwdriver in the slit for the distributor and turn. That lets the gear move up and down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Ogram Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 18 hours ago, ntc said: Nope your wrong big time you must have clearance or good bye cam and dog drive.Use a dial gauge and rotate engine. Hi ntc, How do I check with a dial gauge, is there a written procedure anywhere ? Regards. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 On 6/9/2019 at 10:30 PM, TriumphV8 said: The pedestal must be fully torqued like later in use. It should not be removed and bolted again without test because the gaskets get compressed each time. Add a screwdriver in the slit for the distributor and turn. That lets the gear move up and down. +1 Worked for me....thanks Andreas Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted June 13, 2019 Report Share Posted June 13, 2019 20 hours ago, JochemsTR said: +1 Worked for me....thanks Andreas Jochem Easiest solutions often work nice :-) Another interesting test for you: Make a trigger connection of the EFI via the distributor. You will now get the whole delay in triggering from chain and these toothed gears. Also some delay in the electronics might occure..... You can watch that by setting a fixed timing in the EFI and strobe the pulley. My engine made a delay of about 4 degrees on higher revs. Whereever it comes from, it is interesting to see.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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