Keith66 Posted June 6, 2019 Report Share Posted June 6, 2019 Hi All Kind of abit stuck with my Engine Bay Brake and Clutch lines. Now I know roughly where the lines go but I want to put abit of effort into getting them right in terms of routing and look. So does anyone have any pictures of a reasonably original circa 72 Pi engine bay and the correct look of the brake and clutch hydraulic lines, particularly on the bulkhead. I’ve popped it in Google and had a look at the parts plates on Rimmers but there’s nothing like seeing them in situ. Also if anyone has any advice on how the get copper pipe nice and straight let me know as it’s a fiddly as eck at the mo. Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 (edited) The yellow car is original, the rest have been restored Stuart. Edited June 7, 2019 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted June 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 Stuart Brilliant, as usual, thanks for those pics. Just got to get the dam things straight and neat now. Any tips on how the get the runs looking more or less straight as even the restored ones look good so it is possible. Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 Hi Keith, those pics are a great help to you, but as you say , you still have to get the bends , and the the straights to be straight. Have you got someone local that could lend you an Original steel set as templates. I did mine that way and was pretty pleased with the results. Cheers, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Ogram Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 Hi Keith, I did mine slightly differently from the master cylinder as I did not think the original route looked tidy. I purchased a brake pipe straightener off Ebay - worked a treat. Cheers Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 (edited) Hi Keith, I have a set you are more than welcome to them, although a little out your way. I used as a template for my new pipes with good results. Mark. Edited April 14, 2020 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 A bit off topic: It is clearly the routing is based for LHD cars. Makes you wonder why they did not adapt the brake lines for RHD cars. Would have saved some brake pipes. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Ogram Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 Waldi, Agreed, would have been a lot easier (and tidier) if they had done the same as LHD cars, just dropped the pipes down from the master cylinders. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted June 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 Hi All Thanks for the replies, the pics are great and will help me get mine looking at least acceptable. On the circuitous route of the brake pipe round the bulkhead on RHD models, it is abit of a pain, but i suppose as most TR's were exported (though not all LHD) its not that suprising that the home market was second on the list. Thanks Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 6 hours ago, Mark Ogram said: Hi Keith, I did mine slightly differently from the master cylinder as I did not think the original route looked tidy. I purchased a brake pipe straightener off Ebay - worked a treat. Cheers Mark. That's superb work Mark! I haven't been to Northampton for quite sometime, let me know when you're free.....I'll bring my own roll of pipe . Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Ogram Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 13 hours ago, Richard71 said: That's superb work Mark! I haven't been to Northampton for quite sometime, let me know when you're free.....I'll bring my own roll of pipe . Richard. Thanks Richard, Still got to do the rear brake pipes, fuel feed, and fuel return. After that, I don't want anything else to do with brake pipes ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted June 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 Ho All Thanks very much for all the replies and piccies, very very useful. I've now made my first attempt at the master cyl to 3 way connector ;ine and this is the first fit result in the pic. TBH and given it was done by hand (and by me) i'm reasonably happy so i'll do the other brake line and the clutch and then do a final tidy once all three are there . Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 (edited) Keith-- It's much easier to get straight straights if you start with straight tubing. Simple tool does it. This one is home made, but they can be bought. Ed Edited June 18, 2019 by ed_h Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted June 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Hi Ed Yep i agree a pipe straightener would be beneficial. Trouble is the commercial ones seem only any good for pipe with no unions and i've already got mine all made up by local guy who made them up for a very good price and it's also likely to be a one off job as this resto has taken so long i'll not have time for another, lol. A home made one like yours would be great and tried to make something similar, but using nylon rollers and they simply wern't up to the job. So i'm probably going to install the rest of the engine bay lines and tidy them up as best i can and see how neat i can make it. Unless of course andyone has a pipe straightener i can borrow!!! Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brian -r Posted June 21, 2019 Report Share Posted June 21, 2019 Keith Have a look for MICC (mineral insulated coper cable) tools , electrical factors or fleabay. There were several sizes about which were hinged on one side with rollers that could be screwed down. The small current non PVC covered cable's were quite small so may fit your pipes. Alternatively we would drill a suitable sized hole in a block of softwood cut it in half and screw the two halves together over the cable, where working space was limited. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 Hi Stuart I hope you can help, I know this thread is a little old. I am back into TR6’s after about a 45 year absence, the odd question may be obvious/stupid. I am in the process of replacing my clutch master and slave cylinder. The clutch master cylinder is a Girling .70 64676310 OEM hopefully this is correct. I think I have seen some clutch master cylinders fitted to the bulkhead, is this correct, mine is like the Yellow and Green TR6. I will add a photo I posted in another thread where there is a reducer in the clutch master cylinder as confirmed by Chris59. I find it very interesting that the green TR6 has the same reducer why. My car is not at my house, so do I have to take off the clutch master cylinder rubber boot, or does the gaiter slide over it when fitting. Thank you, Mick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 The part your referring to is an adaptor to fit the larger 1/4" pipe that is used for the clutch fluid pipe, quite usual to find fitted, you dont need to remove the boot on the cylinder to fit the cover but you do need to remove the clevis pin, fit the boot loosely and then refit the clevis and then push the boot down into the housing, thats the difficult bit as most of the covers are made of a plastic rather than rubber these days. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 Thank you Stuart for such a quick and helpful reply. The adaptor has a copper washer I take it that is all I need to make it fluid tight. Mick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 6 minutes ago, mhossack said: Thank you Stuart for such a quick and helpful reply. The adaptor has a copper washer I take it that is all I need to make it fluid tight. Mick. Yes tough if its been used previously it might be a good idea to anneal it before use. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 Thank you Stuart. I need to still buy the odd small part so will try and buy a new copper washer first, but if necessary I will anneal my old copper washer. Mick. . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 I learnt recently that unlike steel, you anneal copper by quenching it in water when it is at red heat. Although, a washer is so small that it will cool down so quickly that air cooling is as effective. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 Hi John Yes I was also told that. Mick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 (edited) Can someone please in very simple terms explain where and how to measure the 15mm push rod float? clutch slave cylinder end, before I try and complete the work. I will be laying under the car (TR6) looking up. I know my clutch master cylinder is a direct replacement, push rod correct length. My old clutch slave cylinder is to far gone to try and compare with the replacement. The body is the correct length and I will be using the original push rod, not adjustable. Can this be done before filling with fluid. When the push rod is slid into the clutch cylinder rubber boot do you fit the clevis before measuring. You can tell by my questions why I need help. I am a retired carpenter so not to bad on the tools. Thank you. Mick. Edited September 1, 2021 by mhossack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 (edited) 13 minutes ago, mhossack said: Can someone please in very simple terms explain where and how to measure the 15mm push rod float? clutch slave cylinder end, before I try and complete the work. I will be laying under the car (TR6) looking up. I know my clutch master cylinder is a direct replacement, push rod correct length. My old clutch slave cylinder is to far gone to try and compare with the replacement. The body is the correct length and I will be using the original push rod, not adjustable. Can this be done before filling with fluid. When the push rod is slid into the clutch cylinder rubber boot do you fit the clevis before measuring. You can tell by my questions why I need help. I am a retired carpenter so not to bad on the tools. Thank you. Mick. Mick You need to fill the system and bleed then measure the arm from off load to on from anywhere that does not move 15 to 17 is correct this is the fork at the gearbox Edited September 1, 2021 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 Thank you ntc hopefully I will give it a go before this weekend. Mick. Quote Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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