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Dogs dinner - Elctrical Isuses (Indicators, Lights Lever)


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Hi

As my Dad would say, you made a right dogs dinner of that....!

I have been posting below on the 6 pin to pin for flashers.  That seems to be fixed but its part of a wider issue or issues so re-post.

Issues 1.

No flashers/indicators.    Factors are:

 - Flasher unit under passenger footwell is good, I tested it

- I can see a broken terminal on the indicator lever on column.  I cut the wires and thought to re-solder but am unsure if anyone has done this before, do I need to take switch apart ?  Any tips on fixing?

Issue 2.

continuing from above  I thought if I physically joined the wires which go to the indicator arm, I'd get a blink - I do not so am getting stumped.  Is there a way I can bypass all and do some kind of test?

Issue 3.

As I was taking steering column apart to get to harness I took out light lever switch.  The switching unit was working OK and on taking it out the tiny spring dropped on floor.  I can see a small copper plate edged thing is loose and I can figure how to re-assemble.

 

Cars been parked a few days now and I am getting a bit stuck.  appreciate any help to get me moving.

 

Rich AKA desperate in Denmark.

 

 

Edited by AarhusTr6
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Hi Rich,

#1: for a proper solder-repair you better get the switch off. I had my entire upper steering column out, which makes work much easier. The connection may be broken in first instance by poor wiring route  which will result in pulling on the wires. If you also have OD, the wires are pretty packed in the guide-thing attached to the column. When the switches are off, you can also check them for continuity and damaged wires. Yes, quite a bit of work.

#2: yes, you can by-pass the switch by making a connection below the dash between the bullet connectors of each switch, basically mimicking what the switch does. Use the diagram for this to know which ones to connect.

#3: cannot help on that one.

Waldi  

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Thanks Waldi

for No1 . I have re-soldered as best I can.  The wire broke right on the join on the small brown circuit board and it seems you cant get it apart.  I have re-solderedering has been tested.  Lets hope.

No2 . I maybe was not clear, I have mimicked the switch but it still foes not engage blinkers.  Any other way to bypass or test?

Thanks

Rich

 

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Hi Rich,

Good you were able to fix the red wire to the switch; if you could get the solder to flow to the copper strands that would further strengthen (improve) the soldered connection. Clean the remainders of S39 after completion.

You can now test the switch for internal resistance with an Ohm meter. It should be   almost zero, say less then 0.1 Ohm. Also test that the metal switch body is not energized in any of the 3 positions (short cutting).

After that, temporarily connect the 3 wires back to the harness (no need to mount the switch), and see if it now works.

Good luck,

Waldi

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Hi Rich,

Have you confirmed you have 12v at the relay on the green wire? This circuit also powers the brake lights and two gauges (temperature and fuel) and the heater fan, so if none of those work you may have a fuse issue.

If you do have 12v on the green, then it goes through the indicator relay and passes onto the connection at the hazard switch,  one side (pin3) and it comes back out of pin4. It then goes to the middle wire of the indicator switch, passes to either wire on that and then down to the front or rear bulbs and then to earth/ground. If for whatever reason it is unable to find a path to ground, nothing will happen.

So go to each point where the wire arrives and goes onto the next part of the circuit to see where the power stops, if you have a test light you can ground each area until you find the break.

Gareth

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Hi guys

All seems to have connection and I am now at the earth/ground on the pin from the hazard relay.  I did an ohm test all over and all is good just no blinkers!!  Really think this is an earth but where do I go from here?

Rich

 

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Can you connect a 12v live to the red wire (although the wiring diagram shows it as green/white) and then the red/green wire that would connect to the indicator switch? This would turn on the right and left side indicator bulbs if the ground is good at the bulbs.

Gareth

Edited by Mk2 Chopper
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Thank Gareth, I will try that.

For issue N3.  For the main lights,    the lever that operates lights  came apart in my hands and I now struggle to re-assemble it. It all looks OK but when I made my first attempt to push it all back together nothing worked! Here are some pictures.

What I really struggle with is the mechanism as a whole. I cant understand what the tiny spring is and how it operates - whereas the hook spring I guess is from white plastic to body . Wires as I can see are blue/white, blue, red/green and brown which does not really correspond with the diagram. Last buy not least, I read this has maybe something called flash to pass or whatever?  I understand that this metal strip runs across and enables voltage but when I re-assembled in does noting.  always happens on a long weekend :-(

Assembly tips much appreciated.

some success I has was I got the four way hazards working after 2 years!


Rich

pic1.jpg

pic3.jpg

springs.jpg

Edited by AarhusTr6
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Good news on the hazards! 

Having never had the light switch apart I can only guess that the hook spring provides a tension as you pull the lever. 

The small coil spring would probably be mounted under a contact to make sure when you switch the contacts are under some pressure, hope that gives you some clues as to where they belong? 

Gareth

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Hi Gareth

did as you suggest - I have lights when I send 12v direct to either G/W or R/G.  Seems the supply in the switch is dodgy . .  I keep battling.

Rich

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1 hour ago, AarhusTr6 said:

Hi Gareth

did as you suggest - I have lights when I send 12v direct to either G/W or R/G.  Seems the supply in the switch is dodgy . .  I keep battling.

Rich

That's great, the circuit is good from the indicator switch. I would check now that you have 12v at the indicator relay. 

Gareth

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Think I found it . . two things!

1.  Wire broken at top of lever join.  I tried soldering, it did not hold so have to buy replacement.  The unit is difficult to re-construct, I tried using a cut piece of plastic but aligning the soldiering to the horse shoe copper contact in the unit is very very difficult - so put to one side for another day.

2.  There was a spade jammed into the bullet on the main live from the indicator.  No good...it had melted a bit.

Also, generally I cleaned all the route and terminals for hazards, the relays and tested for rsistance and the cleaning helped also.

This afternoon is the light switch lever arm....

 

Rich

 

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Good progress, sounds like you're on the home front now. 

And at least you're becoming even better equated with your '6 after delving into its nervous system :D.

Gareth

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Figured light switch :-)

There are two springs.  One flat spring goes behind the copper plate.  The other from the plastic with the pins to the housing, this helps hold all in place.  I took the opportunity to clean up contacts.  There is also a brown wire on a contact for when you pull the lever, flash to pass I think its called. 

So look at the picture, the picture at the bottom  you can see a small hole.  In this, is where the spring goes.  I cleaned the area and also put wee bit of Vaseline grease on the spring.  All of the housing was cleaned,  with focus on the metal strip and the contacts and its never worked so good!  The top picture, if you look carefull, you can just see the spring behind the strip.

light1.jpg

light2.jpg

Edited by AarhusTr6
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Good work, nothing better than figuring something out and sorting it yourself :)

Gareth

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Hi guys

Next time you buy a new indicator lever, check the wiring.    This came with the live wire and left side soldered the wrong way round so after an hour of head scratching I realised it had been made wrong in production!

Rich

 

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