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Having just spent 30 minutes trying to get the top on, only succeeding by brute force, swearing and sweat, fortunately in the garage not out in the rain, please god has somebody figured out a better way to do this?

cheers

Dave

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Yes but its expensive if you want a ready made one.https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr6139mbk/name/surrey-top-kit-fxd-front-tr4-6-black-mohair

Its possible to do your own version but screen frame fixings need changing to TR5/6 type anyway for the above and you would need a header rail from a 5/6 hood frame.

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart.  Its so awful I might even consider the Revington  Expensive Solution.    I do have the old 4a soft-top in the garage,   it must be possible to use the front of that to fix the surrey soft bit to. The old catch thingys are still on the windscreen frame. I expect someone cleverer than me has done something similar.

 

Dave

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Sounds like the fabric is too small or perhaps the front/rear span is too long. Also, some capping pieces give scant gap with the windscreen seal and the front lip of the top has to be stuffed underneath with great difficulty ( I used to lubricate it ).

My '250s have the early chromed brass capping which gives ample gap, and though a bit fiddly no wrestling is needed to install them, 3-5 minutes tops. This can be far too long if a sudden shower arrives out of nowhere! Better to fit it first if threatened.

I once thought the fabric should be tight against the H-frame. At speed it is always lifted up so this isn't essential.

Finally, even with a very tight front lip grip the top would peel out at 80 MPH in the rain. I found that opening the window slightly would mitigate this. Nowadays I just don't drive that fast in the rain with the soft top, and over the years I'd say the Surrey tops have been fitted for less than 1% of the total mileage excepting X-country driving.

 

Cheers,

Tom

 

 

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Hi Dave,

         my Surrey soft top is easy to put on takes <5mins but is tedious AND must be done in the correct sequence.

My way is nto as the ST method.

Fit the front edge and put ion each of the edge poppers.

Slacken the H frame

Using my very special curved pins - insert these in the hood rear bar 

Now Insert these and the hood into the attachment holes in the rear frame

Remove one pin insert the 5/16  screw.

Remove the other pin and insert the second 5/16 screw

Now attach all the poppers.

Raise the H frame by tightening the nuts on the back of the frame.

The pics below show my pins and special nuts (you can adjust these above your head from the drivers seat.

 

Roger

P1030177a.jpg.530f0c643da4ab39594f19cbf3ce3ffe.jpg

P1030596a.thumb.jpg.a086203e49e66b6e2aabf9983d8979e3.jpg

 

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You can (if the wife is with you and trained) get the canvas surrey on the front and back frame in a few minutes and get back in the rest is possible from inside but awkward, we carry a square tr brolly which you can put up and shelter under if only a passing shower..

Its a pity you can't trust the weather forecasting..

      Phil...

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Thanks fellows. 

I just bought a square umbrella for emergencies.

What is the thread on the special bent bits Roger?  I can't find a reference anywhere.   I did buy some of your shiny back plates a few years ago. They are still in place and still shiny. 

I just got the old hood out of the loft.  I am intrigued by the possibility of cutting it up and sewing in the current surrey top rear rod and then just fixing it with the front catches. Still use the h-frame for support.  I guess it ain't that easy.

 

Dave

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I’ve put studs in the rear Surrey bar. That makes it self aligning with tube nuts on the inside. They’re Mini rocker cover T nuts. Keeping on the nuts theme I have a pair of Roger’s nuts and I follow his sequence of erection. 

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16 hours ago, dpb said:

Thanks fellows. 

I just bought a square umbrella for emergencies.

What is the thread on the special bent bits Roger?  I can't find a reference anywhere.   I did buy some of your shiny back plates a few years ago. They are still in place and still shiny. 

I just got the old hood out of the loft.  I am intrigued by the possibility of cutting it up and sewing in the current surrey top rear rod and then just fixing it with the front catches. Still use the h-frame for support.  I guess it ain't that easy.

 

Dave

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I did think about the 4a header rail conversion for mine but came to the conclusion that with the original over centre catches it would be constantly trying to twist the header rail backwards and the ends of the rods would get twisted as when you convert the frame to go with a header rail the end rods that fit in the header rail are only about 3/16" thick. Works fine on the 5/6 header as its held downwards but I doubt it would on a 4a type.

Stuart.

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I had to get a new one for the 4A, chose Moss.

To get it to fit I had to :

a.   Rake the windscreen back as far as I could.#

b. stretch it with weights for a day (sunny) or so.

c.   do a bit of weight training before the first go at fitting.

After the first go, which was a struggle, it gradually stretched and finally became pretty easy to fit. Took a while to be able to tuck the front bit completely under the 'holder onner' metal bit.

# Despite the extreme backward rake of the windscreen the hard top still happily went into position.

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Thanks all.

Had a day off yesterday - Manx TT Senior Race Day - it was sunny for a change.   Been thinking about the 4A header rail,  and Stuart's comment on the forces involved make me think some more.  I might try it and see what happens though.  Awaiting a bit more info from a fellow pioneer,  and then I'll see.

In the meantime,  I need to tune up the carburettors following work changing float valves, petrol pump and some pipe work, and inadvertently turning the slow running screw whilst trying to tighten up the SU damper pot. Must wear glasses.

Cheers

Dave

 

 

 

 

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It's a long time i've given up using brute force on the TR. For the surrey, 1/ I elongated the windshield legs mounting brackets holes in the scuttle top to increase the windscreen rake and 2/ the rear surrey bar stays bolted on the backlight while the top is fastened to the bar with 8 snap fasteners.

soft top rear fasterners.jpg

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I like the look of that press-stud idea.  I could combine that with the 4a header rail and all will be perfect! (maybe)

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4 hours ago, dpb said:

I like the look of that press-stud idea.  I could combine that with the 4a header rail and all will be perfect! (maybe)

I still think that the over centre 4a catches will try and pull the header rail backwards too much but go ahead and try it you can be our guinea pig as if it works then I will probably do it to mine as well!

Stuart.

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