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JochemsTR

Rear drums and pads

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Where to buy the rear drums and pads?

TR Shop London offers finned brake drums, Rimmer standard version and more expensive Al-Fin.

Cambridge offers uprated pads...and so on...

Any advice? My main concern is, the drums are round, not oval!

Jochem

 

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I fitted some of the TR shop finned brake drums a few years ago along with some uprated shoes from Cambridge as I was roasting standard ones on track days. Had a dreadful brake judder problem with them.

The problem was that the centre bore was a bit too large so the drums were mounted off centre. I got around it by fixing them loosely with the splined adaptors for the wire wheels so I could centre them properly before tightening them up.

It might be that my drums came from a bad batch but it would be worth checking.

They worked ok after being re centered and the uprated shoes were ok for 210bhp but I need  something with a bit better cooling now as  another 40bhp has lead to me roasting the uprated shoes as well. The Al-fin ones have bigger fins but I am not sure they would be up to what I am asking of them.

Neil

 

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All in would be dual masters and discs from GoodParts., Ted at TSI can make bespoke pads or shoes out of differing compounds so front and rear have same material. KFP magnum gold material works good on the street (good coefficient of friction when cold), but many would consider them messy.

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Hello Jochem, Project Mu" do pads in various compounds (street to Full race) for TR's and will be doing rear shoes in matching compounds ,I think they used to but stopped the shoes. Regards,Michael.

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Thanks for the replies.

I bought a drum (yes just one) from our german supplier just to see how it fits and how round the drum is.

If nothing is rubbing on one side I will get the second one.

Since I have Quaife hubs, the two little drum screws are missing and the drum relies on the 4 wheel bolts and the centre bore to be centered properly.

Jochem

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Jochem,

I installed my new brake drums “inside-out” and clocked them. They were within 0.1 mm out of roundness if I recall correctly which appeared to be ok.

You have to find a stable place for the dial support, I used a heavy metal I- beam for that, not “according to the book”, but it worked, more or less.

Waldi

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Hello Jochem, Get someone to put their foot on brake and mark,drill and tap hub.I have a friend who races a TR3A and you can imagine the amount of times we are taking the wheels of it and he is forever adjusting the shoes (because it has un-drilled Datsun 240Z drums) also has competition linings.Regards,Michael.

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Installed new drum, and turning the wheel, at some position the pads are still rubbing, but not completely around. The same with the old drum, so no improvement there. Since the pads have slots in them, I always thought they center themselves. Not sure where the local rubbing comes from....any ideas?

Jochem

Edited by JochemsTR

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Hi Jochem,

since there will not be “perfect” concentricity, there will always be a difference around the circumference. Have you measured the out of roundness? 

Yes, the shoes will self-align/settle.

Gruesse,

Waldi

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Hi Waldi,

I have not, I need to figure out a stable mounting for the dial support. 

Jochem

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Jochem you can pick a set of new finned drums at next visit

where I made an adaptor to center it in the lathe

and they are drilled out a little bit to have them perfectly round....

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fyi...

a new drum...

this is the reason I started the thread. Within 90° a deviation of 0,012" (0,30mm) ....in my opinion too much.

Jochem

Drum.JPG

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 I agree.

I experienced it is not easy to clock these drums, did you get reproducable results?

Waldi

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