Jump to content

Wiper wheel box replacement


Recommended Posts

I may have a problem with a seized wiper wheel box. Can somebody tell me the procedure for replacement of one or both on a TR4? It looks to be a very difficult job involving removal of fascia/dash panel/instrument etc? Many thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Monty,

    not difficult, just tedious.

Remove wiper motor and rack wire.

Remove - speedo, tacho, glove box, demist outlets

Remove four screws from each access panel on the plenum chamber. Remove the  panel.

On the outside remove the wiper blade, and the nut.

In the plenum remove the clips holding the guide tubes. Remove the guide tubes.

I think that is it.  Refit - the reverse.

before fitting the new wheel box make sure the rack wire runs nicely through the W.B. Not too tight but definitely not too loose. The W/B can be squished together to make it fit better.

Make everything is nicely greased. Use a thin grease that will not go solid in very cold weather.

 

It is easier to do than to write about.

Roger 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Monty,

mostly with Roger, though from memory, ( Having many years ago) took the seats out and did it all from underneath, NOT REcommended!

I think next time i did this, I only removed the speedo for access to the O/S and the glove box liner for access to the N/S,

I had to do mine twice because the wheelbox twisted locking the rack, reason for that was I over tightened the chrome lock nut under the wiper arm and split the

black bakelite type angled spacer, (Moss Part No AHH 5414) there is one under the front deck to marry with the one over the front deck, and under the wiper arm. Of course sods law dictated that the hard to get at one split, not the easy to get at one, so I made two replacement spacers out of steel tube, to fit under the deck, thinking that in future any overtightening. would split the spacer that had easy access, course in 15 years that now has not happened!

John.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My '3 has a split angled spacer under the dash on RHS. I know this because both halves have fallen on the floor !

It does not seem to have made any difference to wiper action, or to water ingress (there is none) just plucking up courage to replace it one day.

Bob.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Lebro said:

My '3 has a split angled spacer under the dash on RHS. I know this because both halves have fallen on the floor !

It does not seem to have made any difference to wiper action, or to water ingress (there is none) just plucking up courage to replace it one day.

Bob.

I.m sure you can find other jobs to do.  Put the angles piece to the back of the queue.

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Monty,

    not difficult, just tedious.

Remove wiper motor and rack wire.

Remove - speedo, tacho, glove box, demist outlets

Remove four screws from each access panel on the plenum chamber. Remove the  panel.

On the outside remove the wiper blade, and the nut.

In the plenum remove the clips holding the guide tubes. Remove the guide tubes.

I think that is it.  Refit - the reverse.

before fitting the new wheel box make sure the rack wire runs nicely through the W.B. Not too tight but definitely not too loose. The W/B can be squished together to make it fit better.

Make everything is nicely greased. Use a thin grease that will not go solid in very cold weather.

 

It is easier to do than to write about.

Roger 

Thanks for that Roger, I guessed it was going to be a tedious & awkward job! Will probably have to be a specialist as my back irritation will  prevent me crawling around under the dash etc! More expense!

Link to post
Share on other sites

In all my time with the TR6 it is by far the worst job that I ever had to do on a TR. I would rather pull the engine and rebuild it than replace those wiper gearboxes again.

To keep all the bits aligned when you re-assemble, thread the rack cable through all the tubes and gearboxes and then start to tighten the clamps.

Stan

Link to post
Share on other sites

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wiper-Wheel-Box-for-MG-MGA-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR5-37H6316/222521442203?hash=item33cf4fbf9b:g:seoAAOSwjU9Zz0DS

Two things about this listing:

1.  this supplier usually has good parts

2. I think these are UK made in the Midlands by a firm that keeps a low profile but makes good stuff, the name escapes me at present.

Edited by AlanT
repair link
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it's a fiddly and time consuming job but not difficult in terms of required skill level. I have done it three times in 48 years of ownership. It should been only twice but I had to remove and fettle two new repro wheel boxes, which immediately became disengaged from the rack the first time I used the wipers after fitting them, Roger referred to this problem! FWIW Monty I found it helped access  for my 6' 3"frame to do the job if I removed both the driver's seat and steering wheel as well as the cubby box and both speedo and tacho. 

Tim

Edited by tim hunt
Amplification
Link to post
Share on other sites

Where is the best place to purchase a new rack if required and/or wheel boxes? I would rather pay a bit more for quality than cheap copies. Are the Moss items ok?

Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 for the TR Shop Monty. I sourced my replacement wheel boxes from them at Stoneleigh ten years ago. I had taken an original as a pattern and the Chinese copies looked identical and of decent quality. It was only after I had fitted them and taken my first journey in the rain that I found the problem. Once carefully reshaped they have been fine ever since. After fitting them I made the mistake of testing the wheel boxes without arms and blades attached. It was only under a higher torque load that the rack became disengaged. Before fitting a replacement wheel box feed the rack through it and then clamp the wheel box spindle carefully in a vice to avoid any damage to the splines. Next grip the drive end of the rack with a mole wrench and exert considerable force to ensure that it will not come out of engagement with the pinion at high torque. If it does then separate the two halves of the wheel box and carefully reshape them to hold the rack in as close as possible contact with the wheel box pinion without binding. It may be that dimensional control on the pattern parts is now improved. To be fair to the TR Shop when I told them of the problem they said they were aware of it and I should have been warned at the time of purchase. They had two remaining Lucas NOS wheel boxes in stock and offered them to me at a mouth-watering £205.85 incl VAT the pair and this was ten years ago! I politely declined.

Incidentally when you remove the rack if it hasn't been got at before you will find that one side is completely unworn, if so simply rotate it 180 degrees when refitting to the motor and you will present the unworn surface to the pinions and save yourself the cost of a new rack.

Tim

Testing Wheel Box.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

I remember who is making wheelboxes in the UK.

http://www.lapelec.co.uk/thecompany/

The ebay supplier I mentioned above "lotsofclassicbits" sells LAP product on eBay.

You can usually find NOS racks on eBay.  You just need to get one long enough.  They are easy to shorten as required. There is one for London taxis that will fit.

This is on auction at present:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Lucas-Wiper-Rack-743251/223535596128?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2

From memory this is the right part-number but just check the length.

 

 

 

 

Edited by AlanT
fix link
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Wiper problem solved! Fortunately the wheel boxes were ok but on removing the rack it as found to be jammed due to congealed grease. Appears the previous owner possibly used incorrect grease & due to non use of wipers (I try to avoid rain!) the grease has gone hard & the motor could not cope.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Hi All

I am replacing my rack-and-wheelbox after my rebuild - what type of grease is recommended for the rack and wheelbox?

Is Lithium suitable, or are there better suitable greases?

 

Thanks as always for the imparting of knowledge.

Dave 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

I used the black Mo2S (“moly”) grease for the boxes and the rack.

Waldi

Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, Cumulus said:

Hi All

I am replacing my rack-and-wheelbox after my rebuild - what type of grease is recommended for the rack and wheelbox?

Is Lithium suitable, or are there better suitable greases?

 

Thanks as always for the imparting of knowledge.

Dave 

Hi Dave,

try and find a grease that has a very low freezing point. Thick grease does not help the motor at all.

The Black Moly is good for this.  The LM grease (although the most popular is probably too sticky at low temps.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.