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I have just started to strip down the engine block on the 5, which has not run for 40 years now. everything came apart easily with no seized fixings. However, I did find a failed thrust washer floating around. I can currently move the crank by hand by about 80 thou !!!!! Would this suggest that some serious damage has been done or will it be a case of fitting new washers albeit several of them?

I am intending the replace all bearings, valves, springs, followers etc, and do a full rebuild obviously.

There was also one bent push rod. All valves, pistons and rings again appear to be in tact.

So, my question is, could there be any irreparable damage to the crank itself or anything else that a competent machine shop could not put right?

Many thanks,

Tim

IMG-20190524-WA0000.thumb.jpeg.320a8a7e4afa023a2b2b566d29a43a71.jpeg20190526_095920_resized.thumb.jpg.62aff234ad07cb492594e5855c797c88.jpg20190526_095937_resized.thumb.jpg.87fb8a3374f5c6a05ad38437d4cb61d3.jpg20190526_100535_resized.thumb.jpg.4b2900de8a4f0b834048760788f03a34.jpg

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Tim,

If you first remove the crank shaft, then you can inspect the crank shaft and bearing cap faces for damage.

I have seen a crank shaft that had a weld-repair in on the counter face of the TW; it had some cratering in the neck where it should have a smooth radius. I would not do such repair and look for a good 2nd hand crank.

Waldi

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Hi Tim, 

you will need to take at least the rear main bearing cap off to see the thrust washer face on the crank, you may be fortunate but that sounds like a lot of movement. Hopefully the block and cap don’t look like this one. 

Ian

 

53D050A1-AF0C-4EA4-B83A-E5208C5727C4.jpeg

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Thanks for replies. I have this morning dug a little deeper and found the attached horrors. I am guessing that the crank is going to be well past it and possible not acceptable as a exchange - would that be correct?

Thanks,

Tim

 

IMG_4807s.thumb.JPG.a88e88c13c9b0804aeb071c3958cfa26.JPGIMG_4808s.thumb.JPG.98a7a6ddce3a0f1d5ae90ee61ede5a6d.JPGIMG_4809s.thumb.JPG.f9df3378b7c8bffa219ef6db5f990fee.JPGIMG_4811_LIs.thumb.jpg.e3d1b418e0b9b299bb82abb6322b3e8e.jpg

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Maybe the crank can be saved by machining and thicker TW’s to compensate. Have not done that myself though. 

The bearing cap is another issue, looks like there is one TW still in situ?? The weld deposits indicate someone has worked on them before...The main bearings probably will need machining (milling and line boring).

It is best to fully inspect and measure the remainder of the block and crankshaft, and then decide what to do.

Waldi

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Struggling with extracting the crankshaft bolt now so when I have the crank out will know more. Will remain optimistic!!

Thanks,

Tim

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Hi Pete,

 40 odd years ago these were cheap tatty cars. You did anything to keep them going.

Roger

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Hi Tim,

I had a closer look at the pics (thanks for sharing).

I think I now understand why the bearing cap was welded on both sides (front and rear). This was an attempt to reduce end float. That repair did not result in a proper bearing, but it would be interesting to know how long it lasted.

Regards,

Waldi

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One final image of the end of the crankshaft now that I have got it out. Does anybody have a photo of what it should look like please?

Thanks,

Tim

IMG_4819.thumb.JPG.22f389067d65016b820b8e69a05da75f.JPG

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Hi Tim,

As you have seen you are not alone with this problem - here is a link to an earlier topic with a picture of an intact crank rear thrust face. Yours looks badly damaged, and with what appears as pieces broken out. The face at right angles to the main bearing face should also be flat. I would certainly look for replacement.

All the best, Ian

 

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Many thanks for the link and taking the time and trouble to find it Ian.

Thanks 

Tim

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