BobB Posted May 23, 2019 Report Share Posted May 23, 2019 Hi all I wonder if someone can help me with what I hope is a simple problem? After too long, I thought it was about time I bled the brake system, as it was starting to feel a little spongy. All began well, starting with the rear nearside wheel, connected the rubber tube, undid the bleed valve and started pumping. Fluid came through, but noticed that although the master cylinder was making a 'slurping' noise, the fluid level wasn't going down and, sure enough, brake fluid soon stopped coming through. I tightened the bleed valve and, puzzled, I tried pumping the brake pedal again. The pedal continued to travel all the way down to the floor, as if the bleed valve was still open. I can't see any leaks anywhere and haven't yet touched the front brakes. Do I have a problem with the master cylinder and, if so, can anyone advise me what the problem might be? Many thanks in advance for any help. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted May 23, 2019 Report Share Posted May 23, 2019 ‘Pumping”??? Unless you have one of those self bleed kits it’s best with two people. 1) fit the hose and pop the open end in a jar with about half an inch of fluid in it. 2) fill the reservoir 3) get someone to s l o w l y push the pedal down 4) at the same time crack the nipple open and close it off before the pedal reaches the floor. 5) repeat...... but keep an eye on the reservoir contents. 6) work your way around NSR OSR NSF OSF 7) if you’ve managed to introduce a load of air into the fluid allow it to stand overnight. dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 23, 2019 Report Share Posted May 23, 2019 Hi Bob Remember it’s a dual reservoir and I’m pretty sure the smallest part is for the rears, make you keep that topped up when bleeding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 23, 2019 Report Share Posted May 23, 2019 Yes, on a 6 the reservoir has two sections. the section you can easily see is for the front wheels, the smaller section at the front of the reservoir, and mostly hidden as it if forward of the cap, is for the rears. its easy to miss that the small section is draining.... i’d recommend the ‘easybleed’ but you will need a modified tr6 cap to make it work. whereabouts are you Bob, i have an easybleed suitably set up if you’d like to borrow it? steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobB Posted May 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2019 I've bled plenty of brakes over the years, and am very familiar with the technique, although I am using a 'one-man' non-return valve this time. The fluid in the master cylinder never dropped at all, which is what is puzzling me. I suppose the non-return valve may not be working, allowing air into the system. I might try it without the valve, the old-fashioned way, and see if it makes a difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 23, 2019 Report Share Posted May 23, 2019 Actually Bob, thinking about the last time I bleed my brakes/clutch, I had a problem with the one man jobby so I cut off the valve and did it the old fashioned way and it worked with no problems Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobB Posted May 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2019 Thanks Kev. I've just done exactly that - cut off the valve and all now bled and, hopefully, air free. Just got to take it out tomorrow and hope that it stops! Thanks again for all your help guys. bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted May 23, 2019 Report Share Posted May 23, 2019 42 minutes ago, BobB said: Thanks Kev. I've just done exactly that - cut off the valve and all now bled and, hopefully, air free. Just got to take it out tomorrow and hope that it stops! Thanks again for all your help guys. bob Result Bob, enjoy your drive tomorrow. I’m sure it will be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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