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im planning to put a tr4   4 syncro box in my tr3a , and would appreciate any knowledge on the following ,

1.... I have been told I will need a tr4 gear stick due to location bolt being larger in the later box,

2 … if so do I need to have the gear stick straightened and shortened to miss the bash board?

many thanks 

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You can use your original gear lever no problem, dont forget the anti rattle pin and spring, You will need to slot your gear box mounting plate on the chassis to accommodate the thicker gear box flange.

Stuart.

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11 minutes ago, Fireman049 said:

My 3A is fitted with a four synchro. gearbox and has the original gear lever fitted. The 'cranked' gearlever looks wrong.

My friend with a 3A has the 'cranked' gearlever fitted and you always catch your hand on the dashboard

Tom.

IMG_1619 - Copy.JPG

Then its cranked the wrong way.

Stuart.

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I’ve got a 4 box in my 3a and I found that it’s slightly longer than the 3/3a box. (Either that or my engine is too far back, or my body is too far forward.)

What has happened is that the speedo cable comes out at the very rear end of the cutout in the gearbox cover. Not a major problem, but worth mentioning. (No right angle drive by the way. Cable routed as per the excellent pictures provided by Bob.)

 

 

Charlie

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Yes you are correct Tom.

I have a TR5 gear stick in my TR3A. (the only nice new shiny one I could find at the time)   I cut  2"-3" off and rethreaded (7/16" ME ) for the original knob.  Benefit is I do not now scrape the back of my hand on the dash and the change lever is slightly closer so less arm reach needed.

I consider the reason the gearbox is longer is because it has an extra synchro inside it - about 1/4" - 3/8" approx.  Simple slotting of the gearbox cross member plate bolt holes does the trick to get the thing in.  On later 4 synchro boxes the bell housing flange that fits to the engine is thicker - need 3 longer studs.

Cheers

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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