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barneyel

TR3 Will not start

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Hello,

I am about to pull my hair out on this one. I have owned this 3 since 1975 and have restored it and maintained it since then. I have done all of the mechanical work myself and never have had such an issue as I do now. Could it be I'm just getting so old I can't figure this shi* out anymore? Below is a step by step analogy of what I'm dealing with. Hope someone out there can give me a clue because I do not have one.

 

1958 Triumph TR3

New valve job, head gastket, etc.

New distributor, plugs, wires, etc.

TDC on compression stroke, static timed

Cranks from remote starter under hood with ignition off really fast

When ignition turned on, cranks half turn and stops repeatedly

Unplugged coil wire with ignition on and motor cranks freely again.

??????????

Will not even attempt to start

 

Fuel to both bowls

Have fire at all plugs

 

Thank you.

 

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Does the engine fire?

Sounds like the battery is losing power with the ignition connected. This might be because the battery is knackered, the terminals aren't clean, the ignition is wired incorrectly and is draining the battery.

Put a multi meter on the battery while cranking. If the voltage drops markedly with the ignition on you could have an ignition problem causing too high a load/too much drain on the battery.

Edited by John McCormack

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Sounds like Ignition timing way out to me - much too advanced, each time it sparks it tries to push the engine backwards.

 

Bob.

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Hi,

I agree with Bob. All cables from the distributor to the correct spark plug?

Ciao, Marco

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180 degrees out, New distributor assembled correctly?

ignition leads correct, rotor arm pointing at no. one?

If removing the king lead, letsthe engine spin away merrily, you are close to the solution.

Let us all know the outcome,

John.

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Agree with above, timing way out, maybe 180 degrees although that tends to spin quite quickly. Leads in correct firing order for rotation?We have all done it and :D

Iain

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Suggest you disconnect spark plug leads then try to
start/turn the engine on the ignition switch.

That should give an extra clue to identify the fault
from the excellent suggestions above.

AlanR

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I'm with Bob.Considerably over advanced.I tend against the 180degress as that usually

results in lots of popping and backfiring.(Years of (in)experience!)

Easiest way to sort is crank @TDC ( check withpencil down plughole)/Rockers #1 cylinder both with

clearance and rotor arm pointing at #1 plug terminal.Should start .

Roger M-E

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7 minutes ago, roger murray-evans said:

I'm with Bob.Considerably over advanced.I tend against the 180degress as that usually

results in lots of popping and backfiring.(Years of (in)experience!)

Easiest way to sort is crank @TDC ( check withpencil down plughole)/Rockers #1 cylinder both with

clearance and rotor arm pointing at #1 plug terminal.Should start .

Roger M-E

+1

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT

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Hello Barney and welcome, your post struck a chord with me, I’m just slightly down the curve with the forum and its been great - So much willing knowledge available here..

 

Agree with all the Guys, this appears ‘timing related’. However, worth just checking if plugs are wet, if fuel is getting through; just to rule it out..

 

Tony

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Wow, never expected all the great responses! Thanks to all. I will be trying again tonight (If the tornados don't get us) I have fuel getting to all cyls and I have checked the TDC so many times. I am hoping it is the far advanced timing, that sounds the most simple to deal with. The battery is not quite a year old and tested ok and I've rechecked the distributor to make sure all is good. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again!

Barney 

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Welcome Barney. We have tornado warnings way up here in the north east today so if you are in the middle of the country keep your head down as it looks nasty.

Stan

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Ok, rechecked timing with normal firing order. No nothing, just cranks and stops and spins. I reran the wires 180* and I get backfires through the exhaust. Started with pointer at 3/8" BTDC then I retarded after backfire through exhaust and still doesn't start. A few backfires but not as many. Starting to think it is 180* out. Don't know how... 

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Barney,

you cant fit the distributor 180 degrees out, because the location is slotted, 'Handed',

BUT the distibutor can be rebuilt internally 180 degrees out, that sends you down the wrong road.

If you have fuel, and a spark, the thing should run, only conclusion is that the two are not coming together at the same time.

If you think about this, and juggle the leads 'Wrong' i.e. to allow for the distributor being out, you should get it to run.

1;3;4;2 I THINK- hope someone confirms - this becomes 4;2;1;3, with those leads fitted, and the timing say 10 degrees BTDC it should go.

Let us know the outcome.

John.

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Hi Barney,

  what work did you do to the engine before it decided not to start.

On two occasions (slow learner) I reassembled the crank pulley, that has the timing mark on it, incorrectly putting the sparks 180' out.

So with the rocker(valve) cover off rotate the engine so that both #1 pot valves are closed (gaps under each rocker arm)

Get the #1 piston to TDC - do not use the timing mark on the pulley.

Now check where the rotor arm is pointing etc etc.

It should be pointing at #1 plug or there abouts.

Roger

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On 5/20/2019 at 1:50 AM, barneyel said:

 

When ignition turned on, cranks half turn and stops repeatedly

 

 

Not clear whether you are doing this with the starter push switch or the under bonnet solenoid but if the former it may be that the contacts need cleaning.  Can you try another switch?

Mike

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10 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Barney,

  what work did you do to the engine before it decided not to start.

On two occasions (slow learner) I reassembled the crank pulley, that has the timing mark on it, incorrectly putting the sparks 180' out. 

So with the rocker(valve) cover off rotate the engine so that both #1 pot valves are closed (gaps under each rocker arm)

Get the #1 piston to TDC - do not use the timing mark on the pulley.

Now check where the rotor arm is pointing etc etc.

It should be pointing at #1 plug or there abouts.

Roger

Hi Roger

               Many years ago as a novice I did that with the timing mark 60 degrees out, it lead to a lot of head scratching and a return to basics with a pencil down the plug hole and a check on valve timing. 

               Cheers Richard

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It has been reported that new distributors can be assembled with the driving dog 180o out, pull the dizi and have look, easy to fix.

 

Graham

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It's alive! Just started twisting the dizzy (aggressively) while cranking, and it started right up. Purrs like a kitten albeit the wires are 4,2,1,3 so I guess it may have the dog in wrong as suggested earlier by John. It would be weird that two new distributors were put together wrong but? Thanks to all of you for your helpful suggestions!   

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