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14 hours ago, Lebro said:

All of which makes me very glad that I have a solid back axle :P

Bob.

There's a whole lot to be said for keeping things simple.. like when tuning a single carb -v- a pair of twin-choke Webers  ;)

 

I specifically chose the IRS derivative of the TR4 because I can feel and appreciate its difference in everyday driving ..And once set up correctly (during restoration) it'll need no further adjustment for countless years  ..well at least until the chassis sags in the middle and the wheel's camber angle tilts in.!   Aside from the lubrication of half-shaft joints, most IRS owners never touch their car's rear suspension.  It's very simple and yet a little more refined than a cart. :P

 

You might also like to bear in mind the following . . .

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B)  Pete

 

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Pete - DON'T give up with owning a TR - there are other cars out there - just put the word out on here and elsewhere and I'm sure something will come up Chin up  Cheers Rich

Or these people? http://www.leacyclassics.com/parts/classicmini/engine-components/2k7440.html Roger

. Carrying on from TR4 -v- Tr4A engine, and my purchasing a 'spare'  < here >  ..so that I might get on and have an engine ready by the time the Chance is actually bought and shipped,  we h

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FWIW you should use proper sized poly insulators, the fronts and rears are totally different sizes and should never be mixed as they will as you see squeeze out, I use the Super Flex ones in either standard or thick versions https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF378-1028K https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF378-1028%2B5K https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF378-2327K https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF378-2327%2B5K There is also this shim available to help with adjustment too.https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/spacer-rear-spring-aluminium-0431-mm675-065.html?assoc=130981

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart ..but I don't see 5mm thinner than standard  to lower the ride height, which is what I required.   And are the shorter springs for the TR4A-TR6 not much stiffer. if i recall something like 390 or 420lb, versus the original spec of 280lb for the 4A ?

Pete. 

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5 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Thanks Stuart ..but I don't see 5mm thinner than standard  to lower the ride height, which is what I required.   And are the shorter springs for the TR4A-TR6 not much stiffer. if i recall something like 390 or 420lb, versus the original spec of 280lb for the 4A ?

Pete. 

Original 280 are way too soft which is why they were uprated with the 5 on, springs are available in all sorts of heights and rates and its always a lottery if your trying to sort ride height with s/hand or worn springs as you have noticed.

Stuart.

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Hi Pete,

sorry me, I did not read your very long text - too long for me.

You drove already some miles with your TR4A.

And did you try to avoid driving on street bumps and gully covers?
Always with your eyes 100 m in front of you on the road?

Very simple: than you know what spring rate you need / can bear.

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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6 hours ago, stuart said:

Original 280 are way too soft which is why they were uprated with the 5 on, springs are available in all sorts of heights and rates and its always a lottery if your trying to sort ride height with s/hand or worn springs as you have noticed.

Stuart.

Is that a personal observation Stuart ?  I only ask because the road-tests on the TR4A appear to be few and far between, but those I've read from the US do not say so.  The original springs were shorter and had spacers (according to Mr Piggott's excellent book) and some time into production they were changed to longer springs with no spacer. But there is no mention of the longer springs being stiffer.  The TR5's front and rear spring rates were increased, in part because of the car's extra weight but also to counter the tendency for the more powerful car to squat under acceleration and in doing so to drag its exhaust.  The TR6 rear springs were further stiffened, possibly because of the longer body was heavier or offered more boot space ? &/or as engine power and its torque further increased.  

Although a tired TR4A's may squat, I don't recall reading anything about it in the original press reports.

Pete   

Edited by Bfg
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4 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi Pete,

You drove already some miles with your TR4A. And did you try to avoid driving on street bumps and gully covers?  Always with your eyes 100 m in front of you on the road? Very simple: then you know what spring rate you need / can bear.

Ciao, Marco

I have no problem with the spring rate Marco ..either before the chassis was swapped (as also were the coil springs) or afterwards.  I wouldn't want stiffer.  And I'm also happy with the lever spring dampers, save one link arm's rubber squeaks a little in its socket.  My efforts have simply been to correct the excessive ride height and positive camber on the rear wheels. 

Pete.    

Edited by Bfg
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9 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Is that a personal observation Stuart ?  I only ask because the road-tests on the TR4A appear to be few and far between, but those I've read from the US do not say so.  The original springs were shorter and had spacers (according to Mr Piggott's excellent book) and some time into production they were changed to longer springs with no spacer. But there is no mention of the longer springs being stiffer.  The TR5's front and spring rate was increased, in part because of the car's extra weight but also to counter the tendency to squat under acceleration and in doing so to drag its exhaust ..which was a direct a direct consequence of a lot more torque from its engine. The TR6 was further stiffened, possibly because of the longer body offered more boot space ? and/or as engine power and torque further increased.  

Although a tired TR4A's may squat, I don't recall reading anything about it in the original press reports.

Pete   

Basically yes as I used to have a 4a a long time ago and that would drag its rear silencer on bumpy roads when touring and you`re mixing up front and rear springs with regards to spacers Im afraid, I will also refer you to the notes on the Moss parts page regarding rear spring rates. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/road-spring-set-rear-standard-350lbs-silicon-chrome-pair-216275pr.html?assoc=118721

Stuart.

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44 minutes ago, Bfg said:

I have no problem with the spring rate Marco ..either before the chassis was swapped (as also were the coil springs) or afterwards.  I wouldn't want stiffer.  And I'm also happy with the lever spring dampers, save one link arm's rubber squeaks a little in its socket.  My efforts have simply been to correct the excessive ride height and positive camber on the rear wheels. 

Pete.    

„Naturally“ the TRs are not that low as we are used to it from modern cars today.

Don't go too low, you are quickly on the bump stop. And same [mm] to high on the rear safes fuel!

You always drive downhill. :huh:

Edited by Z320
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5 hours ago, Z320 said:

„Naturally“ the TRs are not that low as we are used to it from modern cars today.

Don't go too low, you are quickly on the bump stop. And same [mm] to high on the rear safes fuel!

You always drive downhill. :huh:

The original spec is for a 6" (152mm) ground clearance, mine is measuring 5-3/4" (146mm).  I'm very happy with that. 

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Back on the job.,  albeit slowly ..well even more slowly than usual ! <_<

Yesterday, while the car was still unmoved, on the ground, and level I checked the front wheels were straight (tight cord again) and checked the ride height and camber of the front suspension.  the check was both from the wheel centre to the arch and again under the chassis.  I did this three times with no weight in the car, the 68kg in either seat, and then finally with the 104kg in the driver's seat only.  Bottom line is that the LHS is 10mm high (as the rear LHS was previously) but otherwise the camber on either wheel was good to go. B)  Sometime in the future I'll borrow a spring compressor and swap out the coli spring collars on the LHS but otherwise leave it as it is.  

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Final job on the suspension then (..for the time being) was to lift the car back onto the ramps, load it up again with the bricks so that I might tighten the trailing-arm / poly-bush bolts up underneath. While at it to check the tightness of the half shafts and the flexi-brake pipe clips, etc..

Moving on.., there were a number of jobs to be address under the car. . .

  • Firstly to grease the half shaft UJ's and the rear propshaft UJ.  The first grease nipple was snapped off.  I was very fortunate though insomuch as I managed to undo the broken off piece without dismantling again, by poking an Allen key in and turning it out with that.  I swapped it out with one from the half-shaft I'd previously replaced. Although it (the grease nipple) had a slight kink in it - I presumed that was to provide a better angle for greasing. But no It had been bent.. and so as I pinched that one up, it too sheered off level with the surface.  An Allen key didn't work to get that out, but by chance I had a Torx key which did the job.  With that removed I found one more grease nipple, in the yet to be replaced half-shaft. Job done. Two pumps of grease and the gun was empty !  Hey ho., of five UJ's, I managed to grease the two closer-to-the-diff ones and the rear of the prop-shaft. One outer UJ had no provision for greasing (sealed to destruction) and the other outer had a grease nipple that was impossible to get at, unless I removed the half shaft again.!  For the time being I've left it as I'll need to pull that half shaft out again anyway.

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^ Why did it have to be the one tucked up behind the exhaust pipe ?

..just a two minute job huh ! ?

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^ second grease nipple.  On the right of these photo is the correct long straight type of nipple with small spanner flats ..borrowed from the spare half-shaft.  

Other jobs while down under  . . .

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  • The brake pipe on one side would have been squashed under the bump stop, so that had to be moved aside a little. 

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  • The brake and the fuel pipe were only loosely secured by a cable tie ..where they went into the rear of the tunnel, and the fuel pipe's run would have also chafed on the chassis.  The cupronickel pipe was also buckled and I'm sure with vibration it would soon have cracked, so I'll want to replace it.  In the meantime, they needed 'adjusting', securing and preventing from chattering against each other or the chassis.   ^^ Note on the RHS of the second photo how the exhaust pipe is resting against the chassis gusset, and the way the T-shirt panel is bowed up in the middle. 

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  • The brake and fuel pipes further forward were clipped but still loose enough to rattle against each other &/or the chassis.  I've locally rubber sleeved and neoprene padded behind the pipes as necessary. The hard fuel pipe is joined at that corner with a short length of rubber hose, with no ethanol-resistant markings on it and no pipe clips.  I'll want to correct this sooner rather than later.  And yes there is a drip of fluid from the slave cylinder, which I'd asked to be done. The LHS sill repair is not pretty ..more on that in a future post.
  • I've taped over the holes in the side of the chassis rails (white PVC tape) to lessen water ingress. Those in the bottom are being left open for drainage.

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  • The chassis' underside T-shirt plate being pulled straighter.
  • The crossbox silencer mounts were adjusted (re-done), to raise it up and better support one side (..one bracket now surplus)

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  • The exhaust bracket and clamp under the gearbox was 'adjusted' (..also a clamp now surplus ..the car is getting lighter by the hour !).  A clamp was fitted at the front of the pipe (where it joins the double down-pipes) as that was missing. The second of those clamps is also missing and the old one is bent so I need to buy another.   

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^ when all was said n' done the pipe and silence are now secure ..and there's 1/4" clearance at its tightest spot.  You'll note in the top RH corner the brake pipe was very close to the exhaust. That too has been adjusted. 

While under I was also spotting the oil drips from the recently rebuilt gearbox (which was 99.5% oil tight beforehand)..

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^ Dripping even when the car is sitting unused does not please me.

So., progress is being made, but its slow because of my own post-op limitations and the fact that working under a car on 8" ramps is itself a slow business. All so many details though will simply take some time to work through. And there are many more yet. 

Pending the weather, more next week, perhaps,

Bidding you all a good weekend,

Pete

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