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10 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

“On an optimistic note I suspect it is tight because the timing chest seal is normal, ie., weeping a tiny amount rather than leaking”

Err...no. Sorry Pete but the crankshaft pulley doesn’t touch the timing chest cover other than through the oil seal around the crank. Your pulley could be held on by 5 ft lbs and you’d never know, as said before 1st gear, bricks in front of the rear wheels, handbrake on and use a single hex 1 1/8 af socket to torque up.

Mick Richards

+1

Pete

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Pete - DON'T give up with owning a TR - there are other cars out there - just put the word out on here and elsewhere and I'm sure something will come up Chin up  Cheers Rich

Or these people? http://www.leacyclassics.com/parts/classicmini/engine-components/2k7440.html Roger

. Carrying on from TR4 -v- Tr4A engine, and my purchasing a 'spare'  < here >  ..so that I might get on and have an engine ready by the time the Chance is actually bought and shipped,  we h

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On 3/30/2021 at 5:32 PM, BRENDA1 said:

Hi Mick, yes home made just fixes with 2 self tappers so easy to remove, it has a absorbent sponge underneath.

Mike Redrose Group 

Thanks Mike, hope my attempt will be as good as your finished product.

Mick Richards

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Good evening all, 

Well I bought Katie  very nearly a month ago now, and thereafter faced one seemingly serious issue after another. The clutch and the coolant issues have now all but been done, aside from that I've done a number of minor jobs and am starting to address the next items on the task list.  Tbh., I've only ever once before spent so much money on buying a car and I took the seller at his word when he told me that with this Triumph only minor things ..like the interior trim, the hood, and the speedo's calibration needed attending to. 

I don't believe the seller was dishonest but he simply accepted those shortcomings in a fifty-four year old cheap sports car (well it was a "keenly competitive price" in 1967 !).  For the couple hundred miles a year he was doing - he could live with the heavy clutch, and equally the repeated need to top-up the water in the radiator. And other things like the wheels being so obviously out-of-balance, their tyres being 27 years old, and the number of loose bits and rattles can be ignored when the car is not subject to an MOT and you only ever drive five miles at 40mph to the local car club meeting, once a month. 

From my perspective though, who bought Katie  with aspirations to tour to different countries in an open-top TR, these same 'irritations' took on a different proportion. In fact by last weekend, and after 2 years trying to afford a TR, I was feeling pretty disillusioned with the purchase and thoroughly down in the dumps.  In short., I almost dared-not drive the car any further because I expected those same issues and/or a list of other 'something else' to leave me broken down at the roadside.  The rubber pipes to the heater for example are about to burst, I'm told the gearbox lay-shaft bearing is worn out, and there's a dozen or more 'needing immediate attention' items, before I might consider the car roadworthy enough to take a friend out for a ride.  In that month, I've driven just 133 miles almost exclusively to and from the dust bowl (my container / workshop). 

So, same car and both mostly honest appraisals ..just from different perspectives.

I had a chat with a good friend yesterday and explained these disappointment and my anxieties. I went on to say that I'll just have to work through whatever issues there are ..one by one, to check / replace any rubber parts that might effect safety &/or reliability ; water pipes, engine mounts, rubber donuts in the steering, the flexi brake pipes, old tyres and their inner-tubes, etc. etc.  And then to go through the wiring and each n' every connection until I'm satisfied that they are going to be as reliable as might be reasonably expected.  Anyone buying an old, and relatively cheap, car has to do the same. It's of no comfort to think that many other folk spend a whole lot more money and still face the same ..simply because parts perish and fatigue with time and use, and anything at all may fail with age.

. . .

Today, despite the invitingly blue skies overhead - I procrastinated all morning. I gather anxieties grow with old age.!    I had to face whatever was going to happen sometime, so by 3 o'clock I finally drew myself out to the car, tool kit in the boot and a gallon of water .. just in case.  If nothing else I'd just go and get some petrol (just two miles away !). If everything was fine I'd go further, perhaps out into west Suffolk. 

. . .

. .

.

Well, as it turned out.. all went very well . . . 

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Katie's  water remained where it was meant to be ..as did the electrical sparks, the oil and all the guts of reciprocating and whizzing around mechanical and suspension parts and wheels.  80 miles round trip to nowhere but a nice house, now a hotel, whose coffee shop was closed.

Indeed I had a really great drive - I do love this car's precision steering I started to learn about their seat-of-the-pants handling and also how to use the overdrive as a quick change down into corners, hard accelerate through and then once streaming out.. to flick the switch back into overdrive.   I overcooked a couple of corners but Katie  really looked after me. The most memorable was a left hander that turned tighter than I'd anticipated. That coincidentally timed with a group of half a dozen bikers coming fast from the opposite direction.. so I was in a nicely balanced four-wheeled drift towards, but not over the white line, and I think the second-to-last bike was hoping to crop that same corner from the opposite direction at exactly the same moment.  I suspect he might have . . . . himself a little !   

 

I really ought be more careful, after all I'm an old fart and supposed to be sensible ! 

So there we have it, literally the trials and tribulations of classic car ownership.

Motivation reinvigorated. 

Pete.

 

Edited by Bfg
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Excellent news Pete, the cars looking good and as you say just take your time doing the jobs and try to enjoy doing them, it all takes time with an old car, especially one that has not done a lot of miles in a year, the more you use them I find the less you have to do, only to keep putting fuel in and giving them a wash. Sounds like you had a great time 80 miles on no problems. Just  wait until we can get out properly for unlimited miles. I popped out for 60 miles yesterday. Now in the garage for a good under body clean, grease of all nipples and check all nut and bolts.

Mike Redrose Group 

D4AE7F01-E570-4D03-A1D9-FF1CA41B1A5B.jpeg

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Thanks Mike.  Brenda, as always, looks sublime in the sunshine, and that canal looks a nice spot to go for a quiet stroll.   Tbh I'll not be spending much time cleaning Katie, not least because she's not garaged. But I do hope to steadily work through the necessaries and then get down to doing some of the less important jobs, like addressing her seemingly infinitesimal number of rattles.  Of course finding and dealing one only highlights two others ! 

The first rattles I found and dealt with were ; the bonnet rattling against the radiator, the bonnet stay, and the clutch pipe rattling as it descended into the depths.  Yesterday I identified three more.. the door top's inside chrome window trim is loose, then what looks to be a home-made spacer on the loose rear bumper, and otherwise is a throttle linkage which twists almost as much as it turns the butterflies shaft.  Despite Katie's flirtive looks., she does a pretty good impersonation of a farm trailer rattling down a dirt track. I might only guess over the years you've systematically found and dealt with all of Brenda's and she now sounds as rattle free as any modern car.     

And that darn tappet noise is back again.  huff !  ..I suspect I need to change their pedestals.

But for today, I'm back to looking at oil filter conversions, as now that the temperature / coolant issue is sorted (I am very thankful to advisors here who suggested re-torquing the cylinder head, and to Mickey for explaining how) and now have no need to remove the head &/or replace the figure-8 gasket - I'd very much like to get the engine and gearbox oils changed, and so might as well do that at the same time.

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Hi Pete

Glad your out and about car looks good you'll soon be putting loads more miles on her. Rattles will drive you round the bend I found start at one point ie drivers door strip and road test before putting door card back then go clockwise around, you will be amazed what rattles!! When you have those down days look at these photos and think bugger Katie looks good 

Chris

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I once put ‘er out of the TR2 we had, because she wouldn’t take an interest in a rattle on her side  that was driving me nuts. It couldn’t have been all that a dramatic experience as we’re still together 49 years later ;)

james

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1 hour ago, trchris said:

Hi Pete

Glad your out and about car looks good you'll soon be putting loads more miles on her. Rattles will drive you round the bend I found start at one point. ie drivers door strip and road test before putting door card back then go clockwise around, you will be amazed what rattles!! When you have those down days look at these photos and think bugger Katie looks good 

Chris

Thanks good advice, I'll start at the driver's door then, but I think I'd have to go anticlockwise.  Oh that reminds me to put clips on my shopping list. 

Btw., since the car has been up on a two poster lift, while doing the gearbox, the driver's door doesn't shut so well. Is this common?  I'm guessing it's because the car hogged a little when lifted like that and the door hinges or latch have been pulled and so moved a tad.  

Noise and rattles ; When tapped I noticed the bonnet resonates like a tin can all on its own (..yeah I know don't tap it then !) ..but what's the advice for that.  Possibly I'll start by carefully prising the gap between the stay and the panel apart to squirt some PU goo in there.  But are sound deadening pads worthwhile ? I tend to fear they'll come unstuck and drop onto the engine..

Pete.

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There was originally a sort of black horsehair type felt between the bonnet skin and the frame most of which tends to disappear over the years.

Stuart.

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Is is practical to get and refit the same ?   I'm guessing it was glued in place and any attempt to do so and then slide it in sideways would end up a mighty mess.

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2 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Is is practical to get and refit the same ?   I'm guessing it was glued in place and any attempt to do so and then slide it in sideways would end up a mighty mess.

It wasnt glued in hence why it tended to get lost, I expect Woolies trim supplies may have something that would do

Stuart

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Query :

I'm looking at replacing the core plug in the top of the cylinder head  Moss # PS1603. referring in first instance to the Moss catalogue (last years) I was surprised to see a core plug costing £12 when others are £1.2 - £1.70.  I then check the current price on-line and find it to now be £16.70.  Might I ask what is so special about this particular plug that it is over twelve times the cost of another similar item.?

thanks, Pete.

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Pete

i think many of those come on a stick with 3 all connected. For some reason

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PS1603

revingtons seem to do them individually 

https://www.revingtontr.com/product/ps1603/name/core-plug-one-off-1-diameter

 

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Another question if I may, regarding wheel studs..

I want to fit pressed-steel wheels in place of Katie's  wire wheels. The studs have been chopped down and so I need to replace them all.  Again referring to Mssrs Moss, for the front axles there are part # 114282 and # 114282XL (extra Long).  Both of which read to be "TR3-3A from (c) TS13046, TR4"  but no mention of TR4A.  However the TR5/6 have the same part numbers, again no explanation of why standard or XL.  I thought it must be to allow for alloy wheels, but then note that the XL option is not offered for the rear IRS axle (part # 132317). So why the extra long stud ?  

For the TR2 - 4A range there's also # 100869, front wheel stud, which has no stated application but is illustrated with a square- shaped flanged hub, so I'll disregard that. 

 

2nd half of my question is that I trying a set of TR6 hub centres to see how they look with the 4-1/2J pressed steel wheels  ..and if I go down that route then I'll need to buy TR6 nuts and their plastic washers.   I'm sure someone has tried this before (TR6 centre hub caps on 4-1/2J wheels) - do they look daft ?

Thanks again, Pete

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114282 and # 114282XL are listed for TR4A also in the paper catalogue Pete (page 72) and are for steel wheels.  Don't know why you would need an extra-long one though. Perhaps for people who use wheel spacers?

Edited by RobH
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31 minutes ago, Hamish said:

Pete

i think many of those come on a stick with 3 all connected. For some reason

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PS1603

revingtons seem to do them individually 

https://www.revingtontr.com/product/ps1603/name/core-plug-one-off-1-diameter

How's that stick of three work then ?

Someone here suggested (when I was re-torquing things down) that what appeared to be pitting in the one in my cylinder head might be iffy.  If the things are that deep, rather than just hollow cups,  is it likely that they are corroded through, or are those marks not just likely to be where it's been fitted.?

600358199_TR2021-03-14013as.jpg.1abd75c77b50b2c5382435b485dee148.jpg

Many thanks again,  Pete.  

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That plug looks ok and appears to have been stamped I wouldn’t touch it esp whilst you have other jobs on the list. 

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1 hour ago, Hamish said:

That plug looks ok and appears to have been stamped I wouldn’t touch it esp whilst you have other jobs on the list. 

The stamp appears to read STAN 33  which I might only speculate is not the chap's name but abbreviations  Standard Triumph A....  N....  ??

 

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+1 Just leave it alone if it’s not leaking. Not an easy job to get it out when you have to, not to mention cleaning up the mess and the threads before putting in the new one and sealing it. 
Don’t ask me how I know

james

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Hi Pete

 I would leave plug alone looks fine as for xl wheel studs you're right  there for fitment of alloy wheels not sure if TR6 centres would look correct though nice set of chrome hub caps would

Chris 

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On 3/30/2021 at 12:05 PM, BRENDA1 said:

Morning Pete, there’s always something in the way when you try to make it look good under the bonnet, all you can do is install and clip it away for moving objects. Have a look at you + cable from battery on the fixing bar for the battery. 
as my photo there’s always something in the way.

Mike Redrose Group 

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where to start . . ?

My first step has been to sit down at the computer and with parts books to order a new and complete set of rubber hoses for coolant and heater + new (original type) wire clips (..just so they look all the same).  I've also ordered a new through-bulkhead connector in s/s  and likewise in s/s a new bottom hose pipe (Katie's  existing one is just a short straight pipe so the rubber hose chafes where it was  supposed to have changed direction).  

I've also realised that the hoses presently fitted are the wrong way around. . .

P1380299s.jpg

 

What is seen (above) as the (inlet to the heater matrix) top hose has a 90 deg bend near one end (possibly the bend seen under the bonnet latch).  From looking at Brenda  & other cars - it would seem that this pipe should be fitted to the lower bulkhead connection and also reversed., so the straight section of it comes away from the bulkhead to run parallel with the solenoid and only then does it turn through 90 degrees to join the metal heater-water return pipe, which goes around the back of the engine.  Just there you can see the only remaining original type wire clip on the car.

The bottom (return from the heater matrix) hose (as seen above) is mould-imprinted with the Ford logo.  I'm not sure that motor company has done that since the 1980's, as more modern hoses tend to be ink printed or have a coloured tracer.  Anyway that's just a straight bit of hose and should it be in the top connector on the bulkhead. It then goes straight to the heater valve, which should be turned perhaps 30 - 45 degrees counter-clockwise, so the hose has a gentle curve.

The entwining black earth wire from the battery shouldn't be there at all. The battery was originally earthed to the bulkhead immediately besides its (LHS) terminal.  And the earth wire to the engine is from the chassis to the front engine plate.  Of course this may have been deliberate because the original design relied on a hope and a prayer to earth the body to the chassis.  Funny thing, on my Sunbeam motorcycles the speedo cable tends to earth its headlamp.

The bracket (by the heater valve) on the exhaust manifold clamp, and otherwise vibrating about but doing nothing useful, is pointing 90 deg., the wrong way. It should be almost straight up, and is for the PCV valve ..which on this car is missing altogether. 

So once I get the new hoses in, I can start off by addressing those few details ..and see where we go from there. 

The perished heater hoses are critical items, but tidying the under-bonnet space is a nice bonus for me. 

Pete.

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11 hours ago, Bfg said:

where to start . . ?

My first step has been to sit down at the computer and with parts books to order a new and complete set of rubber hoses for coolant and heater + new (original type) wire clips (..just so they look all the same).  I've also ordered a new through-bulkhead connector in s/s  and likewise in s/s a new bottom hose pipe (Katie's  existing one is just a short straight pipe so the rubber hose chafes where it was  supposed to have changed direction).  

I've also realised that the hoses presently fitted are the wrong way around. . .

 

What is seen (above) as the (inlet to the heater matrix) top hose has a 90 deg bend near one end (possibly the bend seen under the bonnet latch).  From looking at Brenda  & other cars - it would seem that this pipe should be fitted to the lower bulkhead connection and also reversed., so the straight section of it comes away from the bulkhead to run parallel with the solenoid and only then does it turn through 90 degrees to join the metal heater-water return pipe, which goes around the back of the engine.  Just there you can see the only remaining original type wire clip on the car.

The bottom (return from the heater matrix) hose (as seen above) is mould-imprinted with the Ford logo.  I'm not sure that motor company has done that since the 1980's, as more modern hoses tend to be ink printed or have a coloured tracer.  Anyway that's just a straight bit of hose and should it be in the top connector on the bulkhead. It then goes straight to the heater valve, which should be turned perhaps 30 - 45 degrees counter-clockwise, so the hose has a gentle curve.

The entwining black earth wire from the battery shouldn't be there at all. The battery was originally earthed to the bulkhead immediately besides its (LHS) terminal.  And the earth wire to the engine is from the chassis to the front engine plate.  Of course this may have been deliberate because the original design relied on a hope and a prayer to earth the body to the chassis.  Funny thing, on my Sunbeam motorcycles the speedo cable tends to earth its headlamp.

The bracket (by the heater valve) on the exhaust manifold clamp, and otherwise vibrating about but doing nothing useful, is pointing 90 deg., the wrong way. It should be almost straight up, and is for the PCV valve ..which on this car is missing altogether. 

So once I get the new hoses in, I can start off by addressing those few details ..and see where we go from there. 

The perished heater hoses are critical items, but tidying the under-bonnet space is a nice bonus for me. 

Pete.

Hi Pete, did your order a new one of These and a new gasket?

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