Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Some years ago decent lever arms were not avail but tele conversions were. Although I think the teles are worth fitting mine did not work as well as they should until I fitted a pair of CV driveshafts. I now notice movement on gentle undulations which was not avail before. I think this is probably due to the lockup which occurs on the splines of the standard driveshafts especially under load. 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 1.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Pete - DON'T give up with owning a TR - there are other cars out there - just put the word out on here and elsewhere and I'm sure something will come up Chin up  Cheers Rich

Or these people? http://www.leacyclassics.com/parts/classicmini/engine-components/2k7440.html Roger

. Carrying on from TR4 -v- Tr4A engine, and my purchasing a 'spare'  < here >  ..so that I might get on and have an engine ready by the time the Chance is actually bought and shipped,  we h

Posted Images

Thanks Chris ..useful reply.  Might I presume CV driveshafts are expensive ?    And I wonder if having them ..together with lever arm dampers would not have seen a similar improvement. ? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

.

This week so far  :  Arkansas river through Little Rock has burst its banks and homes are in flood.  Another 4" of rain is forecast.  I think Raymond's home is safe at the moment but roads are being closed and of course preparation to get the TR ready for transport is of lowest priority. 

Other news : an update on shipping quotes received to date  < here  > 

.

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

..

From the photo below, and relative to the TR4, 4A, and 5 / 250,  the rear light cutouts are different, as is the boot surround and across the back panel, but I was just wondering why the TR6 has a deeper inner wing pressing on the rear right hand side ?

I read that the TR4A, TR5 / 250 and TR6 body shell was the same and that Karmann had just altered the exterior panels.   Clearly there are many more changes beneath the skin. 

img_7756a.jpg.ad6aa6203ccc6210a01f0419379c175a.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Bfg said:

..

From the photo below, and relative to the TR4, 4A, and 5 / 250,  the rear light cutouts are different, as is the boot surround and across the back panel, but I was just wondering why the TR6 has a deeper inner wing pressing on the rear right hand side ?

I read that the TR4A, TR5 / 250 and TR6 body shell was the same and that Karmann had just altered the exterior panels.   Clearly there are many more changes beneath the skin. 

img_7756a.jpg.ad6aa6203ccc6210a01f0419379c175a.jpg

That depression is for the fuel tank breather expansion tank on US models.

Stuart.

 

Tonys TR6 577.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

^ Thanks Stuart,  I've never heard of one of them ..and don't rightly know what one does either.  

I thought it must have been for a pump on the PI system but apparently not.   And otherwise a useful amount of space for a tool kit. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, Bfg said:

^ Thanks Stuart,  I've never heard of one of them ..and don't rightly know what one does either.  

I thought it must have been for a pump on the PI system but apparently not.   And otherwise a useful amount of space for a tool kit. 

Its piped from the filler neck into the tank and then back out and forward along under the car to the engine compartment where it meets up with the charcoal canister where the rest of the emission equipment feeds into.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/29/2019 at 1:36 PM, Bfg said:

Thanks Chris ..useful reply.  Might I presume CV driveshafts are expensive ?    And I wonder if having them ..together with lever arm dampers would not have seen a similar improvement. ? 

There not cheap but do come with new hubs and decent standard ones are about 2/3 the cost when new hubs are included. There may well be an improvement with lever arms as well but all the people I’ve heard of have upgraded to teles first. Tele conversions have been around for 15 or 20 years , CV shafts for only a few.

Chris

https://classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/

Link to post
Share on other sites

.

History 101 - part 2 follow up correspondence

.  .  .         it's not about things, it is all about the people.

 

On 5/26/2019 at 11:24 AM, Bfg said:

< F. Veitch >   wrote:

Ray, I forwarded your email to Chris Smith who is Crawfords daughter.  She may have more information including original purchase stuff.  

 

Sent:  Sunday, October 1, 2006, 9:55:58 AM PDT

Subject: Emmett Crawford Morten

 

Recently I heard from Fletcher Veitch (..the Nephew)  - that you have my father-in-laws TR4. You can not believe how happy I am to know that the car is still around. In fact, a bunch of us here in Ticonderoga are thrilled.  Fletch mentioned that you would like to know a little about Crawford. I could go on forever if you were here but you are not so I’ll just jot down some quick thoughts.

After quitting West Point and getting married, Crawford moved to Ticonderoga and decided to buy a sports car. After much research he decided on a Peerless. It wasn’t too long when he discovered that the English had not mastered fiberglass and his cars had to always look good, so he made a deal for the dealer to take the car back and give him a TR3. LOADED. He loved it, so a bit later he sold it to his nephew Fletch, ordered a TR4 out of Rutland, Vt. (Russ Smith Auto), had it shipped to SAH, blue printed, and he flew to England to pick it up. He drove it around to a couple Formula One races and sent it back home.

Let me describe Crawford…..

Crawford was a big man, wicked smart, eccentric, and when he spoke, you listened. He loved cars, guns, wines, gourmet cooking, astronomy, and reading. He hated improper English but some four letters were quite OK. I am sure I am missing other hobbies of his.

He was the 1955 US Muzzle Loading Pistol Champion.

During the 1950’s and 60’s, he was know at Watkins Glen for his reciting of poems, songs and jokes. 

When the British told him that a carb did not fit his Land Rover, he went to his shop and milled a plate that made it fit.

His Grandfather led the charge over San Juan Hill, not Roosevelt . It is a fact.

Morten Salt ! Sterling Salt ! His relatives.

Around Christmas he would drive his Land Rover to Md. , load the back with oysters and seaweed. I would get a call when he got back and we would deliver oysters to friends and relatives. They knew that they had to serve us a good wine or a single malt scotch. I could be made happy with a cheap beer but Crawford educated me differently.

After Crawford’s funeral, we all went out to his farmhouse and had a party in his honor.  Many people, many drinks, and many many Crawford stories.

My wife is looking for pictures of the TR and her father for you but I got anxious.  

We will keep in touch. AND thank you.

Terry Smith

- - -

Link to post
Share on other sites

.

Nothing very much happening with Chance  at the moment.  The seller's good lady wife had a fall and broke her arm and two ribs,  and then the following week  Little Rock had floods when its river burst its banks,  so I think Raymond has his hands full ..and of course preparation for transport of this 4A  is on a back burner.   Tbh, that's  fine with me right now because monies are tight until my 1955  Sunbeam motorcycle 'Hovis'  is sold. 

 

In the meantime..   I enjoyed a very informative morning yesterday with Rich  rcreweread  who lives just 25 miles away in Colchester.   Rich had a beautiful white 1962 TR4 and then other project TR4's & 4A's to show me, as well as a host of excellent new and recondition parts that he helps other owners with.  He seems quite the expert on gearboxes and their ratios,  and also their weakness and where they might best be strengthened.  Drop him a line if you have gearbox or overdrive woes, as he can supply these at a fair price.   The aluminium fuel tank (new) and radiator cowls he offers - do look superbly made  and again do not seem expensive.   

Rich had read my posts regarding the IRS chassis < here > and so very kindly gave me a tour around one -  to show where weaknesses (fatigue points) were to be found (particularly the front suspension and the differential mountings) and then how to reinforce them.   He also has a body tub with a 'sectioned' sill  where I could see its construction - very useful (..I should have asked to take a tracing of it for my cad drawing).  And then again,  a host of both original and aftermarket repair panels ..ready and waiting for his own project cars.   All invaluable to my understanding of how this meccano set all goes together.!    In fact we discussed so many details (over a three hours visit) that I couldn't share them all here, but I know much of that discussed will be usefully recalled when I'm face to face with those same components on Chance

One of less important features (..versus actually getting the car back on the road)  was to look at the raw metal dashboards  ..and to spot the differences between the TR4 and 4A.  And also to discuss the possibility of converting from Left to Right hand drive.   I'd like to go retro with my 4A and to have the white-painted dashboard of the earlier car.   Of course this might depend on my finding someone with a 'spare' glove box lid and hinges (for a lhd car) hopefully inexpensive & surplus ..as they've gone on to fit a beautiful wooden dashboard.?  

With these parts loose off the car,  Rich and I could see how the metal glove box lid might possibly fit into the TR4A's metal aperture.  The question of whether I convert to RHD is another matter - the verdict is not in on that one,  but again I guess it'll come down to the cost/availability of the necessary parts (..dashboard,  rack,  pedal assembly,  etc.).

All in all it was a a great tour Rich.   I really do appreciate your time and kindness in allowing me to dip into your veritable mine of information -  THANK YOU.  

As and when I get this project home,  I hope you'll come to visit and have a look.   And when I see what is needed (what is serviceable and what is uneconomical to repair) - I'll be glad to call upon you to see what you might have.   

It was an excellent TR visit.   - Again many Thanks  ;)

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Peter - wow!

Thanks for your comments - I'm nowhere near the expert you seem to think I am - I'm just an enthusiastic TRer who has learnt along the way, and more often than not the hard way, and am happy to impart that little knowledge to other enthusiasts.

I also hate paying top dollar for rubbish parts so have spent quite a lot of time researching the best/better parts and who supplies them at best value, primarily for my own benefit, but am also more than happy to impart that knowledge with other enthusiasts.

As for parts themselves, I take pride in restoring them to a quality that I am happy to use in my own restorations, which means they have to be good, and if I have any surplus, I do sell them from time to time to help fund my own restorations. 

Once again, thanks for your sentiments but better now go and get on with the current restoration!

Cheers

Rich

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...

.

Well I haven't left the country yet, and I'm still waiting for Chance, this TR4A to be packed with its spare chassis ready for shipping. 

We had come to an accord back in May, and poor old Raymond (the seller) has had a difficult year, what with his wife (who has her own cleaning business) having a fall and breaking her arm and two ribs. They then had a hurricane follow up the Mississippi and strike their community.  Raymond's sons cars were damaged.  Raymond also changed jobs. Then there were floods, more damage, and so things have been delayed.  Then things went a little quiet..

Raymond says it's because he cannot use the computer at this job for any personal messaging (he works in data processing so I'm guessing it may be a security thing).  But as a consequence of that and helping his wife run a business (..so his working 12 hour days) then he barely gets onto the internet now.   A couple of months ago I wondered if the thought of mounting the spare chassis on a cradle over the car might have become a stumbling block.  This coincided with my coming across a scale drawing from a US magazine road test.  So as I have the chassis in ACAD  < thread here >   I thought I'd drop that over the scale drawing and work out the actual dimensions, so as to provide Raymond with a cutting list for that cradle. 

A friend I spoke to about it was concerned that some people take great offense at being told how to do something.  I took that advice to heart and worded my correspondence and suggestion to Raymond very carefully .. In fact, I'm sure he's perfectly capable - but if nothing else it might save him a lot of thinking and planning. 

2085905576_RoadTrackTR4A-withsparechassis.thumb.jpg.18784c9224f6b4f7aee89691299bc700.jpg

..drawn to scale,  which combined with the cutting list and an updated 3d sketch, ought to be helpful..

392371585_partsnumbersforthechassiscradle02g.thumb.jpg.fa28346ed0beb20dc9f36fd5fc94c1b2.jpg

He replied and appeared glad for that.

 

Next I heard from him was after I sold my little Citroen Ami Super..   a car I'd bought in Slovenia and had body-off structurally restored .  I told that story, or perhaps saga  < here >.   It's one of only two Cimos built ' Supers'  known to have survived ..so pretty rare.      

Despite being rust free and mechanically in good roadworthy condition, I never repainted her (..she was physically too small for someone of my freakish size, and then my friend died and I lost all interest).  No-one in this country was seriously interested.. and all I got was a number of silly offers, with even more people trying to scam me (..clearly we don't even have a police farse any more).  A couple of guys from the continent couldn't get their ducks in a row,  and so the gentleman who (eventually) bought (..cheaply) her lives in America.

new-york-traffic1a.thumb.jpg.5048cb239f68c4774e779ef8cbbd18a1.jpg

^  Ami has gone to Live in New York. The ship sailed on the 27th of last month.  The buyer is the Sales Manager for Bonhams Auction house in New York.  I guess he ought to know an investment.  Anyone else over here is just looking for 'a steal '.

Anyway, the consequence of that sale is that I have the money for Raymond in a US currency account.  Hopefully this will be immune of our current political bullshyte,  and also currency exchange fees.  That may pay for the TR (..a long dismantled project 4A) but it won't be enough to pay for it's parts and materials for restoration.  I plan to do most of that myself as I got very upset with the quality (versus cost) of the "professional" work done on the Ami.  I don't think it's a an idle boast to say - as an enthusiast I can do better quality myself.

 

So recently to raise funds,  I've been preparing to sell a couple more of my now diminished collection of motorcycles.  These two are now on the market. . .

  P1310678.thumb.JPG.000b76c01f6973c1040f438ba1aca56f.JPG

'Katie ' is a my 1948  Sunbeam S7  (500cc in-line ohc twin).  As such it is the rarer early model.  Indeed her frame number is less than 1000.  As you can see she's in very nice condition and is roadworthy,  although seen here with the petrol tank off my other Sunbeam,  while I resprayed her own tank ( black) in two-pack paint.   That's now done and refitted.

 

The other bike is one I restored and semi customised in 2012, and again have recently recommissioned. . . 

12173313.jpg

850cc Norton Commando Interstate MkIIA , with touring panniers and option of custom single or standard dual seat.    Again a very nice bike for the enthusiast. 

Once they are sold then I'll have the money and a bit more space to restore (..and hopefully semi-customise) Chance.

 

Ok, so what's happening with Chance ?   Is it still going to happen ?  Well as I say things have gone quiet recently.  I'd not heard from Raymond for three weeks, with no replies to emails sent,  so yesterday I sent another email  just to say that I was still here and willing to honour our agreement,  but then also asking (nicely) whether after all this time he might be wanting me to " just go away ".

. .

. .

.

I had a reply this morning from him to explain ;

" Hello Peter,

I'm glad to hear that you are doing well and keeping busy. The reason you haven't heard from me that I am loathe to recount my troubles and problems, especially as it seems that all I have done for some time now.  Since the last time we wrote one another, my whole family came down with some kind of nasty bug that had us all flat on our backs. The doctors insist it's not the flu, but it sure felt like it.  Then, just as I was getting over it, I hit a deer on the way to work, and I have had to scramble to find a way to work and also try to get my car fixed.

I know we came to an accord back in May and I have every intention of honoring it - in all honesty this has been the year from hell for me and I'm struggling to move forward. I do hope I can get thing turned around and bring our business to a happy conclusion. "

20191017_105137s.jpg.4e903473abc8d77e96dc3ac1ce6dc6f5.jpg

please get off my lap deer - you're a little heavy !  

..but yep, that looks like a sizeable chunk of venison has been re-profiling the Mada's bonnet line.  Poor creature. 

So this has been a really tough year for Raymond and his family.  My prayers are with him  and I'm just glad he wasn't hurt.  

 

That's all for today.   I wish you and yours well.

Pete.

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

.

Carrying on from TR4 -v- Tr4A engine, and my purchasing a 'spare'  < here >  ..so that I might get on and have an engine ready by the time the Chance is actually bought and shipped,  we had. .  .

P1320794.thumb.JPG.ab66861ac28ecb43763a0844f01b7963.JPG

moving on to

P1320811s.thumb.jpg.555354997bdc155b73eea13beec78ba0.jpg

That was this (Saturday)  late morning / early afternoon. 

Thereafter, for just a couple of hours I started into scraping off the heavier crud and a first wipe down with home-mixed cleaning penetrating lube  ..so I might dismantle without that grit dropping inside. 

P1320813s.thumb.jpg.efa8c6af407eed637ef1999fb1a6a92a.jpg

^ This is as was, and below is after getting my hands dirty.

P1320841s.thumb.jpg.47c804da7ece11c38435c07aeb503aac.jpg

Access to clean around the front cases was awkward and in any case I would need to removed the fan and pulley sometime soon, so I got on and did that. (NB. I am taking photos of their assembly order).  The water pump was seized but that freed off nicely with a squirt of penetrating oil and a little careful tapping.

P1320815s.thumb.jpg.1d1cee86823c0eae4e2e0549033f2700.jpg

 

P1320838s.jpg.75e6dfb2cfdf70bea05078ede6ad3797.jpg

^ This is a rare-to-survive six blade fan for hot climates. To remove the pulley and extension ; the fan itself is taken off first. Then under that is a long bolt (30mm open ended spanner needed) which goes all the way through the extension nose and threads into the end of the crankshaft itself. With that removed the pulley and the (straight machined) coupling is eased off the crank with its woodruff key.

The fan has aluminium blades and the pulley itself are lightweight (two piece) pressings, but that extension and its bolt are massively heavy.  I guess this is left over from the side-screen TR's and TR4 model which had starter-handle dogs on its end.  

With those removed, I continued to scrape and clean the front engine mounts, the camshaft chain cover and surrounding area. I guess that front seal must have been leaking because the oil-grit crud was pretty heavy under it and down either side of the engine and its sump.  Note to self ; Buy some rubber gloves. !

P1320847s.thumb.jpg.180a434472a0c28c59c2c56fbdbd9bd0.jpg

The paint on the cover and sump pressings is very thin & applied without primer  ..and scrapes off very easily. It's pretty amazing that any of it remained after five a half decades. There's now a coating of light oil on them, which will fend off surface rust until I get around to cleaning them up for paint. I haven't seen under the sump yet but it's sides and this chain cover are in very good shape.  

I also mixed-up some penetrating fluid and poured that into each bore in the hope it might free the cylinders up.  The spark plugs were in very tight.  Three of them were Champion and the fourth was Esso branded.  And aside from being a bit sotty, all looking in half decent shape.  I hadn't realised they were short reach plugs. 

P1320845s.thumb.jpg.05a483b08a32ce7475f5a0e5556db863.jpg

 

P1320843s.thumb.jpg.75ed20f40262823dfe30074c47892025.jpg

^ so that was the heavy crud off the outside.  Mind you the black sludge deposits on the rockers (below) indicate a prior owner(s) ran the car on negligible budget...

P1320828s.jpg.2e2133064f9f77882eef26c40033cc67.jpg

I'd removed the rocker cover and so aware of this before I bought the engine, so it wasn't a surprise.  Despite the oil sludge (which oddly looks blue-grey in this flash photograph)  I'm pleased that (aside from the rocker cover studs) its all there and the adjusters aren't all chewed up, from having been adjusted with a pipe wrench !    Still, I would not be surprised if the bearing journals were scored and very worn.  Hey-ho it is some 54 years old and from a car which was most likely a fun ride for at least one generation of student.  The forward-most manifold stud has been sheared off but there's a good amount of shank to get grips onto.   Cylinder#2 is on its exhaust and #4  inlet is open. Their pistons are 1/4 the way down the barrels, and their piston crowns can be seen through the spark plug holes. Conversely #1 & #3 are 3/4 of the way down so are out of sight. But poking around with a bit of wire through the spark plug holes #3 piston crown feels very lumpy ..which is not what i might have expected.  I wonder if there's a hole through it ?        

There's still oil in the sump so I couldn't turn the engine on its side yet.  So I guess the next task will be to remove the oil filter, drain the oil and lift the block off the sump. Then we'll see if there are any horrors lurking in the slimy darkness.  But I'll not be doing that tonight.

Pete.

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done Pete. 

Keep up the blog posts on this one it will be a great record and hopefully a reference for me and others to follow.

H

Link to post
Share on other sites

.

Sunday, so I'm just pottering, but I wanted to see if my home-brew penetrating oil had worked any ..to free up this seized engine.

I started off by releasing the rocker / tappet adjusters ..to minimise as much resistance as I could.  And I scratch marked the flywheel mounting flange so that I might see any movement relative to the rear-main bearing cap bolt head. 

P1320848as.thumb.jpg.bf63d776f565cc26757358b67cc98c05.jpg    

Using two long and two short extension bars from 1/2" drive socket sets for leverage  on the flywheel mounting bolts  (..so what that ; 70cm (28")  ..I struggled.  Trying to do this and hold the engine upright isn't very easy on your own.   Working back n' forth from one side of the engine to the other with no movement whatsoever,  I then heard a gentle thud.  It was barely discernibly, which I wouldn't have heard if the radio had been on.  Did I break something ?  :wacko:

Not sure., but the mark appeared to have just moved a tiny amount  ..perhaps 1/2 mm,  still I couldn't be sure.   I continued working one way and then the other.  Yes., tiny thud to tiny it wasn't going very far ..just that 1/2mm.    No hang on.,  that time it was a whole mm !   Back n' forth, around the bike lift, I could now get the mark to move 1mm each time.  And then the mark jumped 3mm (1/8")    whoppie  !  :)   ..but it then locked up in that position :huh: 

So with my considerable weight bearing down upon the end of the lever ..  Yeah !    ..It moved back 1/2mm.  Working again, much back n' forth to get leverage and yet hold the engine up .. 1/2mm  movement .. then 1mm ..and then aargh..  I thought an extension bar had broken. Three of the four pieces clattered to the floor.

But no ..it was  eureka !    it wasn't yet free but the crank had turned perhaps 20 degrees.!   Then it was just a matter of working that around and back again.  There was pop sound as a valve opened opened or perhaps closed (?) for the first time in numerous years. And then another. In short time I got the crank to turn 360 degrees. You could hear the surface rust being scraped off a rear cylinder bore (most likely #3).  And then as if a spit of disgust, my penetrating fluid splurted out of #4 cylinder exhaust port.  Ha, I side-stepped just in time !   I steadily worked the crank around until I had seen each of the tappets dip their head in reverence to the lever bar.   Job done, as it became easier and freer with every turn.        

I added some more penetrating fluid, and am now leaving that to soak through the piston rings. 

It only took an hour but I feel it was a good days work.  I'm well chuffed. B)

It might all still need replacing, but being free does make dismantling things so very much easier.

Pete.

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done Pete. 

Braver man than me to persevere with that leverage. 

Fingers crossed for you. 

H

Link to post
Share on other sites

. . spending money like it's going out of fashion  ..

I must be getting old and suddenly consciously aware of just how easily an engine of this weight falling over might put me out of action for months, if not do more serious damage.  A crushed foot or hand even sounds painful !   ..when did I become less than a young fool ?  

I guess my aluminium motorcycle engines just never presented such a risk.   So for £37.67 including 48 hour delivery . . .

SwitZer Transmission / Engine support Stand 1000lbs / 450kg  < here  > .

I have a welder so might add a few bits. I think it'll be strong enough but sometimes a little extra bracing for stiffness is useful. And I'd like to add some sort of brakes.

I'll let you know how well it works. 

P.

Link to post
Share on other sites

..

Handling that sort of weight got me thinking. :blink:

ok it's more spending.. but just in case the height of the engine presently on the bike lift doesn't correspond with the stand ..and I need it to lift it.  

1200lb winch using webbing for £16.35  < here >

As it happens, it's also something I was going to buy for my boat (as I'm making a tabernacle to raise / lowering its mast on my own).  

I considered half a tonne (545kg) was about as strong as anything (roof beam or boat) I might attach it to,  so why buy heavier duty.?   And I chose webbing over wire because I prefer the feel when handling it and it won't scuff across the boat deck the same as wire does.  Nor will it corrode.

Again I'll let you know how I get on with it.  

.. might I ask ; where shackles / straps hook onto the rear of the engine ?   At the moment I can take a line down to where the starter motor mounts ..but where would you otherwise hook a strap to (when the starter is fitted) ?

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Bfg said:

..

Handling that sort of weight got me thinking. :blink:

ok it's more spending.. but just in case the height of the engine presently on the bike lift doesn't correspond with the stand ..and I need it to lift it.  

1200lb winch using webbing for £16.35  < here >

As it happens, it's also something I was going to buy for my boat (as I'm making a tabernacle to raise / lowering its mast on my own).  

I considered half a tonne (545kg) was about as strong as anything (roof beam or boat) I might attach it to,  so why buy heavier duty.?   And I chose webbing over wire because I prefer the feel when handling it and it won't scuff across the boat deck the same as wire does.  Nor will it corrode.

Again I'll let you know how I get on with it.  

.. might I ask ; where shackles / straps hook onto the rear of the engine ?   At the moment I can take a line down to where the starter motor mounts ..but where would you otherwise hook a strap to (when the starter is fitted) ?

 

The Rear engine lifting bracket....that is attached to the rear RH head stud and exhaust manifold stud - the one that is missing from your engine.

Moss USA https://mossmotors.com/lifting-bracket-rear

5 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Pete

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

.

This afternoon I set about tackling those sheared off manifolds studs in the head, and in the exhaust manifold itself.  I thought I had one sheared off in the head and the three in in the exhaust manifold where the down-pipe clamps to it.  In fact I found another in the head which had sheared off just proud of its hole (mostly hidden in the old gasket).  

24 hours soaking in penetrating fluid, and my attempt to remove the longer sheared off studs failed.,  with three out of the four shearing off just inside their holes. Just one came out,  so the others needed to be drilled . .

P1320853s.jpg.ca3f969a6eeac4c2ec4cb706e0cc332d.jpg

^ Buckling down., starting off with a centre punch and then a small drill ..constantly checking that was going in perpendicular to the surface.  

Similarly with those sheared off in the cylinder head (below) ..

P1320858s.jpg.1994fc20266c24eb34a5f0b00b303c2b.jpg

P1320860s.jpg.21d5e87a1c03f5997a9ebb20164352a2.jpg

^ ..this is the other one I found after scraping the old gasket away.

 

Looking on the positive side...  drilling out all four sheared off studs at once wasn't so bad - as I already had the right size of drill bit in the cordless. :P

P1320861s.jpg.74c9f7879c4f997a912f96544fef0302.jpg

^ all studs were first drilled through with a 1.5mm bit,  and then the sequence was ;  3.5,   5mm,   6.5,    7   and  7.5mm.  The latter being the largest hole without cutting into the original threads. 

Of course,  the previous smaller hole drilled through the stud guided the next drill size up, so helped keep things central to the hole - but as a visual guide to each drilling I eyed up the drill parallel to another stud I'd screwed into the good hole.

P1320866s.jpg.ac85df793bb5024eba812a2cac7fa400.jpg

^ Drilled with 7.5mm.  I had hoped to be able to prise the remain stud (thread coil) out of the hole,  but it didn't want to play nicely.  So I had to tap each hole out again.

Thankfully the tap bit into the original thread so it was just the old stud being cut out.  Btw. each is a  3/8" Whitworth thread.

P1320867as.jpg.2b86dc815263697425ee925e4e0f33bf.jpg

 

The same was done with the sheared off studs in the cylinder head.  . .

P1320871s.jpg.00740aa70030ad8d3eb9717c1753da52.jpg

Naturally I ran the tap into all the other holes just to clean them out. 

I'm pleased.. The task (try to remove four studs, only one of which came out, and to drill out four studs and clean their threads out) took 4-hours this afternoon, so not nearly as bad as it might have been.  I'm glad not to be paying someone £50/hr + VAT to do them.!      

I now have just the one, rear-most original manifold stud, that will have to come out.  I'm expecting it to shear off, which is why I didn't do it today (..I used it as a visual guide for my drilling square into the block).  

Pete. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Pete,

I'm also watching with attention.

Do you have any idea about the total weight of the engine?

And what colour was the block painted, mine is black but I also see coloured on the web.

Ciao, Marco

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually don't know the weight of the engine but I read about shipping a short block across America and it weighed 300 lb  =^=  136kg..   It would not surprise me if the complete engine weighed 200 kg.

I understand the standard engine block colour was black. The (remaining) paint on mine appears original.

Pete.   

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.