Jump to content

Recommended Posts

5 minutes ago, Nigel C said:

Ha, I got a beany/woolly hat for Christmas that has a flat type LED torch fitted to the front of it and can be detached for washing ( the hat that is!)

I also have an LED torch like thing that clips to the front edge of a baseball cap/hat and found this especially good when looking at maps whilst its raining!

 

I have one of those for night time dog walking. Great idea to use in the garage. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Pete - DON'T give up with owning a TR - there are other cars out there - just put the word out on here and elsewhere and I'm sure something will come up Chin up  Cheers Rich

Or these people? http://www.leacyclassics.com/parts/classicmini/engine-components/2k7440.html Roger

. Carrying on from TR4 -v- Tr4A engine, and my purchasing a 'spare'  < here >  ..so that I might get on and have an engine ready by the time the Chance is actually bought and shipped,  we h

Posted Images

On 2/4/2022 at 7:32 PM, Nigel C said:

Ha, I got a beany/woolly hat for Christmas that has a flat type LED torch fitted to the front of it and can be detached for washing ( the hat that is!)

Didn't know they existed, but like the idea, so I ordered one on Saturday - cheers Nigel. B)

 

On 2/3/2022 at 11:01 PM, Nigel C said:

I use quite a lot of double sided materials and sometimes its easier to peel the backing off, move it along 10mm and put back on again, this way you get a tab at one end to re-peel under more difficult circumstances.

Thanks again Nigel, prompted by this.. I pre-peeled the backing paper off the sticky-back neoprene I'm using . . .

P1410346s.JPG.aed0ec07c4fca3f274a1dac2ae5aa2b6.JPG    P1410345s.JPG.70f22acca2e7ff54c469feff1515446d.JPG

^ Although the suggestion was to peel the backing paper and move it along a little, I peeled it off for a couple of foot, and moved it over to one side just a couple of mm (if you'll excuse my mix of measuring units) before  cutting each to size and with its slant (that's quickly done because I use pieces cut to left or right handed length as templates to save measuring each).  So obvious (in retrospect) and then so quick to do the peeling this way. :rolleyes:  

Should it be of interest to anyone, the second photo shows the total amount of 2mm x 30mm neoprene strip I used ..under just one side of the body tub. 

On Sunday, I added these to the passenger side floor, so these pads are now across each  chassis rail where the pressed indent of the floors cross them.  I've also fitted the body-mount pads on that side too.  But for spacing the two diagonal braces in the engine bay, the body is now almost ready to bolt down. I've bought 5/16" plain shank bolts for most of the mounts as I'm really not keen on set-screws threads through rubber &/or spacers. That's just a peculiarity of mine ..as it probably matters not one iota. :P   

Before bolting it down I remembered that I had not cleaned out and painted deep into the first sill-body-mount I'd encountered ..that was the one just forward of the RH trailing arm. So this afternoon I did that, and then while laying down in that corner released the front and bottom edge of that rear wing to clean up and paint the end of the sill covered by that wing.

Is it better not to know ?  . . .

P1410353s.JPG.68b12e046907f69af5a3064d8a33ce87.JPG   P1410357s.JPG.41cabac675761803d91f551174cb79e6.JPG   

^ First impressions, was of rust-bubbled-paint on the sill, near the front edge of the wing (seen here with that paint scraped off with a favourite old chisel), but also just behind this was a hole through the outer sill panel ..through which the end-cap could be seen.  I didn't know about this, never-the-less the weather was great and I'm practicing a happier state of mind (..yeah I know, I need a whole lot of practice ! :ph34r: )   Second photo shows how it looked after power wire brushing + flapper wheel.  That'll not do.

P1410364s.JPG.3121da3f594a83e7a2fc588d874773e9.JPG

^ I made a repair plate to tuck inside the now-trimmed-back-to solid-edge, with holes ready drilled for plug welding.  Zinc spray paint included copious amounts inside the sill cavity. 

P1410366as.JPG.db9f9b87820f158e35eb4b76e9c532db.JPG

^ plug welding with edge tacks worked well, and the inside of the end cap, as seen from within the wheel-arch is still tidy.  Where the repair is hidden under the bottom edge of the wing, and for a "good n' solid driver" I don't feel the need to dress it further.  I through drilled the round hole, for the spire clip fastening, and zinc sprayed into that edge too, let it dry ..and then slapped red paint all over. 

Job done, but for refastening of the rear wing and bottom stainless trim. So hopefully tomorrow I'll get Katie's  body bolted on again. 

Until then, I bid you a very pleasant evening.

Pete.

   

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

What's this bottom stainless trim of which you speak Pete? Looks as is it's along the bottom edge of the sill? Is this original? I haven't got that, and I can't see it in the Moss catalogue. Seems like a rust trap to me.

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, stillp said:

What's this bottom stainless trim of which you speak Pete? Looks as is it's along the bottom edge of the sill? Is this original? I haven't got that, and I can't see it in the Moss catalogue. Seems like a rust trap to me.

Pete

Non original and a definite rust trap, better deleted entirely.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/7/2022 at 8:05 PM, stillp said:

What's this bottom stainless trim of which you speak Pete? Looks as is it's along the bottom edge of the sill? Is this original? I haven't got that, and I can't see it in the Moss catalogue. Seems like a rust trap to me.

Pete

 

23 hours ago, stuart said:

Non original and a definite rust trap, better deleted entirely.

Stuart.

 

Agreed, they are not original, but if I might propose a challenge to your thinking .. 

Rust happens when there's little or no paint (a membrane to keep damp and air out) such as inside the sill or from where paint is peeled, scraped or chipped off.  There are vent holes in the top of Katie's  (TR6 sills) and drain holes along the bottom of the inside down-turned panel.  Had the sill been adequately etch primed and painted inside, and also wax-injected from new (and thereafter at frequent intervals) - then the formation of rust from within would be held in check. 

Rust happening from the outside is most likely due to ; poor application of paint flaking off, porous paint, cracked paint, scrapes / scratches, or stone chips.  The underside of the sill, where stone are flying off the front tyres, and in particular - the flange and its bottom edge ..where trolley jacks and person are slid under the car from the side.. are very vulnerable to being knocked and chipped.  So surely a tough stainless steel U section fitted over those would help protect it ?  

The question then arises in how to fasten such a protective section. ?  One's usual frame of thought is to use clips with sharp barbs that grip both the panel's flange and the section. These of course pierce the protective membrane (the paint) which is then, particularly if the clips move a little with vibration, are an open door for moisture & air to the ferrous steel. 

However, what if..  that U section is filled with a good quality seam sealer instead, and then carefully eased up and over the suitably painted / fully cured bottom edge.?  Perhaps it is supported upon a long straight length of timber while the sealant / adhesive cures. And of course the excess sealant, that squeezed out, was neatly wiped away. When fully cured it was again painted over in body colour, and then being a very smooth edge was subject to the usual practice of frequent car wash and waxing. 

Is that bottom flange not be very-much better protected, being "sealed" in and armoured with stainless steel, than it would be when exposed to getting knocked and chipped ?

Naturally, this takes longer to write about - than to actually do. ;)

Anyways up, food for thought perhaps ?

Pete.   

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, Bfg said:

 

 

Agreed, they are not original, but if I might propose a challenge to your thinking .. 

Rust happens when there's little or no paint (a membrane to keep damp and air out) such as inside the sill or from where paint is peeled, scraped or chipped off.  There are vent holes in the top of Katie's  (TR6 sills) and drain holes along the bottom of the inside down-turned panel.  Had the sill been adequately etch primed and painted inside, and also wax-injected from new (and thereafter at frequent intervals) - then the formation of rust from within would be held in check. 

Rust happening from the outside is most likely due to ; poor application of paint flaking off, porous paint, cracked paint, scrapes / scratches, or stone chips.  The underside of the sill, where stone are flying off the front tyres, and in particular - the flange and its bottom edge ..where trolley jacks and person are slid under the car from the side.. are very vulnerable to being knocked and chipped.  So surely a tough stainless steel U section fitted over those would help protect it ?  

The question then arises in how to fasten such a protective section. ?  One's usual frame of thought is to use clips with sharp barbs that grip both the panel's flange and the section. These of course pierce the protective membrane (the paint) which is then, particularly if the clips move a little with vibration, are an open door for moisture & air to the ferrous steel. 

However, what if..  that U section is filled with a good quality seam sealer instead, and then carefully eased up and over the suitably painted / fully cured bottom edge.?  Perhaps it is supported upon a long straight length of timber while the sealant / adhesive cures. And of course the excess sealant, that squeezed out, was neatly wiped away. When fully cured it was again painted over in body colour, and then being a very smooth edge was subject to the usual practice of frequent car wash and waxing. 

Is that bottom flange not be very-much better protected, being "sealed" in and armoured with stainless steel, than it would be when exposed to getting knocked and chipped ?

Naturally, this takes longer to write about - than to actually do. ;)

Anyways up, food for thought perhaps ?

Pete.   

 

 

In a word.........No

As its an upward facing flanged edge inside and out and highly unlikely that 1. The strip is completely sealed to the elements. 2. Its edges are upward facing so water/mud will accumulate above it and any moisture will wick through even the slightest gap. 3. The two panels that it covers are 100% sealed internally so any moisture that does get in through direct or indirect (condensation) will still be there to cause some corrosion.

Your car your choice.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a very approximate description.

Test your painted panel with the motor industry factory standard test.

Place the painted panel securely on a variable angle table.

Perpendicular above it mount a drain pipe that is 1/2 mtr. long.

Drop a pre arranged selection of bolts, nuts, varying sizes of gravel down the pipe.

Time how long it is before the paint comes off.

Land Rover I think require their primed panels to fold round a 10mm diameter bar at -20 C without the paint cracking or detaching.

When working in a plating shop years ago, the process instructions required steel items on removal from the skalene de-rust process,  through wash and into the cadmium plating bath within 30 seconds or rust would start to form on the chemically clean  steels.  You could see the steel discolour if you left it out of the solutions too long.

 

So no the stainless steel cover is just a cover.

Think MGB & Midget stainless steel over sills.  They will reduce stone damage/impacts to paint work, which is why sidesctreen cars have rear wing stone guards. Stag had them too

Great to cover the rusted sills from the MOT man's eyes but of little use if the tin worm is already in the panel it is over.  Well tarty for the MG owner though.

image.png.a22babdd015bf3a3fbcba856f7bc7c5d.png

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

There's some irony in citing British car industry standards when it comes to rust protection :lol:

 

.. but still I know which I prefer as a stone guard . . .

P1410381s.jpg.76ca3013a57efe45f4c6b471c7cdac7b.jpg

^ without  stone guard on that edge,  or with  stone guard and flexible sealant over that edge. 

..you pays your money and you takes your choice B)

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/3/2022 at 9:39 PM, Bfg said:

Just a short report this evening, mostly because I spent part of the day catching up with putting things back together, like refastening the offside front wing where I had its lower screws out ..to paint into the crevices, and of course re-hanging the exhaust silencer and adjusting its clamps so the pipe doesn't clonk the tunnel.

My task this afternoon was to get on with refitting the body to the chassis, which is again sitting on four wheels ..albeit still on the ramps so I can crawl under the car.  

P1410307s.JPG.137e58fb53211f0b4644ff0250a96116.JPG    P1410308s.JPG.2dadf1d0c68330b86961c9910ee0ff24.JPG

^ fussy as I am, I didn't like the main body mounts now each being three layers of relatively soft rubber. There were no mid-layer plates in those mounts, and the new rubber is without reinforcement mesh ..so when compressed its thickness easily squashes down as the rubber tries to squidge out the sides ..as is evident in the shape of their holes (second photo) ..after just 6-months / 250miles.  Katie's  old chassis showed clear evidence of where the body and chassis had chafed together - locally taking the paint off each, and undoubtedly adding to the squeaks, rattles and the humdrum of vibration type noises.

These are not isolation body mounts ( Isolastic type), but if I understand the design correctly - their rubber's give is to accommodate disparities in angle &/or surface shape in the bracket on the sill / body panel and the chassis.  2-3mm is thick enough to do that.  The soft rubber is also a weather seal inbetween the underside of the car and its interior.  Sandwiched Inbetween these two rubber 'gaskets' would be spacer(s) ..I'm guessing in steel. That's not what I have now nor what I had previously. 

Rather than refit whatever there was (seemingly numerous horseshoe shaped spacers), I opted to measure again . . .

P1410311s.JPG.786a3aee2aff4ff3a2d9ed307b415ef2.JPG    P1410314s.JPG.0e9f4bc9ed739495ddfdb1ab1ab8ef4a.JPG

^ I set the body on the chassis without any  mounts in place. Instead it sat on six little packing pieces of 3mm thick hardboard. These were placed on the chassis just under the edge of the bulkhead, and again on the corner-reinforcement-plates at either end of both trailing-arm chassis rails. The doors gaps are as they were, and the doors open and close well ..now that the nearside anti-burst plate is lubricated !  Measuring and recording (2nd photo below) each body mount / the gap between the body and the chassis, I could then determine what packing was actually needed.

P1410342s.JPG.09e6855706f8a86680c133623bae3d97.JPG   P1410340s.JPG.de8602eb3216291d502871f6a4d1c348.JPG

^ I had lots of rubber & spacers parts to choose from, as Mark was very good in returning the bits taken off the car, when replaced with new.  The old body mounts were all (fabric) reinforced rubber and generally a tad thicker than the new so I could select what & where was to be fitted.  

I started with loosely fitting the two front mounts (one on either side of the radiator) and then those at the end of each rear outrigger. Even with loose bolts, those helped keep the alignment square. But before fitting the central body tub's mounts, I wanted to fit some rubber strip under the floors.  M&T seemed to have forgotten them, even though a roll of the rubber appears in one of Mark's photos.  Nevertheless I had a roll of 2mm thk x 30mm wide neoprene rubber which although pretty soft I felt would do the job well. 

image2s.jpeg.4466a84b14f0a1abc18876e919ebd5f3.jpeg

^ my old chassis is typical of many photos I've seen (as a body is lifted off) where the body-chassis mounting strips are only rested upon by the deeper pressing of the floor, and then only occasionally.  So again, me being me, I did things my own way. . .

P1410338s.JPG.6bc810af05d2f4d9bf7d51ea663860cb.JPG   P1410343s.JPG.ebf57cb30ec1bc4417a8c0c0ddd2a404.JPG

^ short strips being cut to fit under the pressings where they cross over the chassis rails. Doing this under the car ..as evening turned to darkness, and feeding the sticky-backed neoprene in the 3/4" gap between the body and chassis didn't make it a quick operation, but the fiddling around to peel the backing paper off each little length took me longer than fitting them.! 

An extra pair of hands would have been helpful to un-peel the backing and, only then, to cut each length. Then of course to pass them down to you under the car. As indeed would have marking the underside of the body tub (where the chassis sits) and to do all this .. before the body was fitted.  Including sorting thicknesses and now having loose-fitted the central mounting rubbers, the task took me 2 hours ..for one side.

I've lowered the body now and I'm confident these neoprene strips will work well.  None of the mounting bolts are screwed in more than a few threads (because I need to lift the near-side floor tomorrow to do the same), but already the tin-plate of the floor panel sounds very much duller.  Even though the strips barely touch the chassis, clearly it is cushioned. With the extra surface area of these strips, versus the original short lengths fitted in just a few places, it ought to stand up to wear pretty well. Time will tell.

That's it for tonight, so I bid you a pleasant evening.

Pete.

Following-on from two weeks ago, I've not been in the best of health and so have been pottering rather than getting on with the job in hand, nevertheless following Gareth's question regarding 'Mounting body to chassis TR4A'  < here > ..I thought I might add a few notes regarding the washers and rubber packers used during the refit of Katie's  body to the replacement chassis.

The bolts (or rather hex-head set screws) were replaced for new, together with the spring washers and penny washers. I say penny-washers deliberately as they are rather different to the original body washers . . .

P1410428.JPG.04ea87d33c3e2165925fbbc106e6aa8c.JPG     P1410429.JPG.26d622a77463846a6cf7271e43ce9b9f.JPG

^ two penny-washers don't equal the one thick body-washer. Indeed as you can see, even after such short use, they bent quite easily. This is because as one penny-washer dishes in, it radially slips relative to the other.  Naturally this cannot happen with a single, twice-as-thick, washer.  

In practice, the nickle-plated penny-washers fitted were 1.2mm thick, so their combined 2.4mm thickness was already a fair percentage less than the 1/8" steel body washers previously (originally ?) fitted.  As a rough estimate, using a beam-deflection calculator for solid steel ;  2x 1.5mm penny washers deflect about eight-times more, under the same load, as a single 3mm body washer.   The penny-washers also measured at 28.5mm diameter, whereas the original body-washers were 1-1/4" (32mm) in diameter.

Probably a bit OTT for many of you, but I took the time and trouble to custom make plates for the main body mounts . . .

P1410411s.JPG.e05f0d7e5936921d37004b0f6e26546c.JPG   P1410410s.JPG.eee408cd104b404396a5298f551bf61a.JPG

^ The main body to sill mounting plates I've cut and fitted are from 3mm thick steel, three bolt fastening for the rear triangular plate, and almost square ones (second photo) further forwards. The latter are 85 x 80mm and so have over double the clamping area of the original four 32mm dia body-washers.  I've used stainless steel penny washers over these to save the paint chipping out under the bolt head.  I've not used spring washers because there's already spring in the rubber mounts, to dissuade the bolts from working loose.  Oh and yes, I've used plain-shanked bolts through the rubber.  There's also a reinforced-rubber gasket on top of / between the floor and these body-mounting plates, to accommodate any discrepancy in surface (..for example, where the edge of the inner sill sits on the floor panel).  All fastenings were of course put in with a generous smear-over of Copaslip.

The forward-most footwell (square) plates are off-the-shelf bright-zinc-plated items from the fastener supplier. They have 10mm holes but with plain washers that's fine. Again they sit on reinforced-rubber gaskets to seal out moisture from under the car.  These being particularly susceptible to road spray, as they are just behind the front wheel-arch.

Was it worth the bother ?  Well, firstly the cost to make them yourself is negligible, but for a few hours of workshop time.  But then probably because of my career background I'm practiced in considering worse-case scenarios. In this instance, that's what happens when some other vehicle T-bones you at a junction.  Having designed and produced very lightweight kit-cars, I had to accept that we were not driving around in armoured tanks, but on the other hand., there's a whole lot to be said for a lightweight car being simply knocked out of the way, rather than statically sitting there trying to absorb the full impact.  Of course being knocked out of the way only works if the car stays together.!   My concern with the skimpy penny-washers was that, in such a scenario, they would tear through the floor's body-mounts, allowing the body to peel off.  So to me - the few hours spent in making these plates were worth that little bit of reassurance.  

Regarding the rubber packing, I don't know where M&T bought theirs from, but they were not  reinforced with nylon (or similar) strands, and so when compressed they creep / squeeze out. That was evident in the distorted shape of their holes when they were first removed.  Perhaps this illustrates just how flexible they are . . .P1410424s.JPG.1241abb55fe990fdcf42635339d2d5de.JPG

Even just pinched between finger n' thumb, the stretch distortion is quite evident. The hole in one had already split to the edge. 

Katie  had three of these rubbers in each sill body-mount, packed one on top of another, which like the thin penny-washers shown above would move relative to each other.  In short time these would have 'settled' and the body mounts, tucked out of sight under the carpet, would have been loose, and the body would have been moving / chafing against the chassis.

Pete  

 

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mike, Thanks. I hope the floors now will be a little better protected from moisture / rust (both inside and out). 

One of the little tasks of these past couple of weeks was to fill the small screw holes with seam-sealer, and to paint over those. These were the holes from self-tapping screws used to keep the carpets in place, clearly some had either pulled out or could not be found when fitting new felt or carpets, as in all there were over 80 holes !   I still need to shop for some new grommets, aside from those for the wiring, there's two for the speedo / rev counter cables through the bulkhead and then two more for the handbrake cables.

The weather here has swung around, from the westerlies, to northerlies. Aside from and occasional heavy shower, it's generally stopped raining but is still very blustery and not exactly  tropical temperatures today.  Still, the hazy sunlight does break through the clouds quite often and so the light is mostly very good here, under the clear polythene cover.  We've not blown away yet, but the occasional gust does make one a little anxious as to just how much longer things will hold together.  The pipe-wrap used over the timber framework minimises the hard edges and chafing, and I'm hopeful the cover will remain effective throughout springtime showers.

Pete. 

 

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done Pete for hanging in there, despite obstructions!

Such attention to detail is also a lesson in itself. I should learn from your example of perseverance or grim determination. I can think of several things I prefer to avoid. Amazing that different-size washers make such a big difference! Roll on next BFG instalment!

Ciao for now,

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good Pete like the 3mm plates these must give infinitely more clamping force than 3mm washers.

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Charlie D said:

Which sort would you recommend?

The Airfix kit or the  plasticine kit?

 

Charlie.

Gromit1small.jpg

Gromit2small.jpg

"Stupid boy!"

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

^^^  :D:D:D

Wallace was not in when I dropped by for Gromit, so I went to the club (East Saxons @ the Alma) meeting yesterday evening and my friend Rich kindly brought along a selection of grommets to suit, so they'll be swapped out over the course of my doing other tasks.  In anticipation of refitting the gearbox cover I've just replaced the speedo cable.  That instrument's needle tends to move in a jerky manner and reads inaccurately, so I'm hoping an unkinked new cable may help fit it, without the cost of an instrument rebuild.  ( .. still an optimist Pete ? :rolleyes: )

P1410469s.JPG.f6d042211932cbf226aaf1d87a2cf598.JPG 

^ In the course of replacing the cable, I rerouted it through the pedal box / master cylinders bracket so its run is now very much smoother and imo neater too.    It used to come up passed the steering column and then have to kink around the back corner of the bracket to then go through the same hole through the bulkhead

Other pottering around jobs recently included . . .

P1410415s.JPG.2ac042e4d362665d41caa0651008bb27.JPG

^ The vibration damper, which hangs under the tail end of the gearbox didn't have its security bracket, so I twisted one and fitted it. I think its purpose is to prevent the weight from sliding backwards and fouling the driveshaft UJ, should its clamp work loose.  So I could have used wire, but this was almost as easy.  And as you might gather I do like the car to be accurate to original specification :lol:

P1410393s.JPG.6551314d7626737e0c79807df59a0f85.JPG   P1410400s.JPG.474abebe173566075e35fa7a5c39fcc3.JPG

^ I also replaced the rear bearing in the starter motor. This being a high-torque type, fitted by the prior owner, from the TR shop in July 2004  Again due to radiant heat from the exhaust down-pipes the lubrication of that bearing dries out and it had gone notchy (..is that a technical term ! ? ).  The rubber cap over the wiring connection had perished and I found that an old rubber slave cylinder cover fitted on there quite nicely, with its hole filled-in with black silicon sealer.     

P1410421s.JPG.2083d9ff088b688d9bcde7d25cf799a3.JPG

^ Another task was to make a panel back for the map pocket I made in the side of the gearbox cover.  This is to be easily removable for access to the gearbox oil-level plug.  The plywood was reclaimed from a small fruit box, and is painted just to keep damp out, but at some time I'll cover it in vinyl.  The back face will have sound deadening on it. The strip of steel was in my bag of off cuts, and all I needed to do to that was to round its ends, de-burr it and drill a couple of countersunk holes. If it were chromed it would look nice but for convenience I've just painted it silver.

next . . .

 P1410422as.JPG.a957607ff426400ea0b204155b6aaa1d.JPG

The rubber dam I made for between the engine bay and the gearbox had a wobbly top section.  It's too tight between the gearbox and the underside of the heater to get another fastening in there, so I recycled the aluminium from an old paper-towel holder. Cut to shape with a jig saw, it was nice and easy to work.

Back to work on the gearbox cover . . .

P1410432s.JPG.02b4f02b37e54d84a1c37a80447e1c00.JPG    P1410430s.JPG.b60a6aa170bf98ab71fe21585da30e21.JPG

^ I used the same ribbed rubber (previously the rubber mat used on shelves in a shop) for noise absorption inside the two parts of this steel gearbox cover.  The issue was of course twofold. 1. keeping it there (rather than it draping down) after a while, and 2. getting / keeping it tight into the corner shapes.  CT-1 adhesive was used for the former, and stuffing it with sponge and soft wadding, while that adhesive was setting, sorted the latter . . .

P1410433s.JPG.88ddd5dcd238d4c851e22d8ed47f1d47.JPG   P1410447s.thumb.JPG.b38e1db27c2ba94622567044558ee664.JPG

^ The insulation is a work of patchwork because I just started with a limited size of rubber, and that had various holes through it, but on the whole it worked well. The white CT-1 is not pretty but then I could if I was worried about how pretty it looked (..inside the gearbox tunnel, when fitted in the car with carpets over it !) paint it.  I glued it in several stages as that was easier to handle and again for pushing it into the corners, while in the meantime worked on a heat shield . . .

P1410444s.JPG.a40ef6ee0a1e66188cdbd37a1c51672a.JPG   P1410435s.JPG.18dd7f15fa078eab9de3e5c069924bc6.JPG

^ previously the back of a boiler, a corner of that steel was formed and fitted under the front of the exhaust manifold, as a shield to lessen the radiant heat to the dynamo (which is just an inch-and-a-half away).  That heat causes the rear bearing's lubrication to dry out, and so the bearing fails, this in turn causes the armature to wobble and chew itself up ..which is why I was obliged to replace it.  Seen above, as work-in-progress - it still had to be much tighter fitting (to the manifold), so the dynamo can be rotated all the way to the engine to fit the fan belt.

While doing this I discovered another little problem. . . 

P1410448s.JPG.99fb32c246d7a41d1139a2f545cc87da.JPG      P1410450s.JPG.487a0ea9c4fd413e4218f48e914c40d0.JPG

^ the dynamo bracket was broken, the hex-head set-screws were all different lengths, and the hole for the rear end of the dynamo was worn rather badly.  Hey ho., Katie  must have thought I was looking for another job to do !   A car like this is like being married !

P1410460s.JPG.10a3e54f96f83100eddef2d18094caff.JPG

^ I welded bracket back together, taking care not to have a corner build-up where the front bolt hole is, and then I added a short length of steel tube to the rear ..as a bearing surface for a 5/16" UNF plain-shanked bolt.  In practice, with the heat shield in place, I couldn't get such a long bolt in from behind (from the exhaust manifold side) so the bolt comes in from the front and a lock-nut is fitted at the back.  My apologies for an inaccurate photo. 

P1410462s.JPG.482823efcb1a853b83faebd57b528e0e.JPG     P1410463s.JPG.cf6a46bbe25f485880bf0af7a2046948.JPG

^ As noted on a recent thread, from a side-screen TR owner, I'm not the only one who finds that rear pivot-fastening a right awkward so n' so to reach.    With a heat-shield fitted ..its no easier ! The plain-shanked bolt slipped into the bracket's new tube easy enough, and held itself there, as I then laid under the car to start the lock-nut onto the thread.  And then, from above again, I could get a ring spanner onto that rear nut to hold it as I used a ratchet-ring-spanner to tighten the bolt.  Thankfully I'll not need to remove it very often.  

The three screws holding the bracket are through the engine case and so need to be considered a potential oil leak. All are now the correct 5/16" UNC  x 3/4" long hex-head set screws, with Loctite 5922 'flange sealant' on their threads, and on the back-face of the bracket around the holes.

And so there we have it. . .

P1410466s.JPG.0f422e15b91dedf52789c4d0b09c35da.JPG         P1410467s.JPG.7298427a78314b72e31923d7526ddb2d.JPG

^ Probably because the rear end of the dynamo is held in line, I've found that the dynamo rotates closer to the engine, and fitting this large section fan onto the pulley is now really easy.  And the heat shield is fitted in place. The screw threads into the forward facing bosses of this exhaust manifold are 3/4" deep and have BSF rather than UNF threads in them.  I don't believe a heat-shield was fitted as standard to UK cars, but it appears to have been planned for, or may perhaps have been specified for some overseas markets.?   

I think that's enough of my waffling on for today, so I'll bid you, one and all, a good evening and a great weekend.

Pete.

 

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work as always. Liking the sound deadening, should be nice and quiet... stationary with the engine off :D.

Still can't work out the map pocket, but I'm sure it will become clearer once the carpet is in. 

P.s. hurry up, the weather was TRiffic today, perfect for top down motoring!

Gareth

Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, Nigel C said:

what forces were involved to break a dynamo bracket? wow!

Yep, quite common Nigel, I've had a couple on engines I've been rebuilding.

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Yep, quite common Nigel, I've had a couple on engines I've been rebuilding.

Mick Richards

Yeah I have had a bracket break there. 
I was also under the impression the bolts went through the block and needed sealing. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Hamish said:

Yeah I have had a bracket break there. 
I was also under the impression the bolts went through the block and needed sealing. 

Yeah, Pete does point that out correctly in his write up

"The three screws holding the bracket are through the engine case and so need to be considered a potential oil leak."

They need sealing with a PTFE tape and I drill the bolt heads and wirelock them to avoid them undoing over time.

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.