Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Yes Kev, thanks.  I've ordered one in stainless (the bulkhead connection for the heater hoses) on the advice of my friend Rich as he suggested they are often rusted from the inside, suggesting they may fail when disturbed. 

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Pete - DON'T give up with owning a TR - there are other cars out there - just put the word out on here and elsewhere and I'm sure something will come up Chin up  Cheers Rich

Or these people? http://www.leacyclassics.com/parts/classicmini/engine-components/2k7440.html Roger

. Carrying on from TR4 -v- Tr4A engine, and my purchasing a 'spare'  < here >  ..so that I might get on and have an engine ready by the time the Chance is actually bought and shipped,  we h

Posted Images

April 19th..  Wow the weeks slip away so quickly.

Previously, I'd torqued the head down and re-adusted the valves and the engine was nice and quiet ..but just for a very short time. There's very much more 'ticking' at tickover than there should be.  So, last weekend I decided to replace Katie's rocker shaft assembly. 

Unlike the side-screen cars, the pedestals on the TR4A (and possibly the TR4 ?) are of cast aluminium, rather than cast iron, and so under their nuts should be a thick plain washer to spread the tightening load under their fastenings.  However, a prior-owner had used square-section lock-washers, and this was the consequence. . .

P1380324s.jpg.5db733c6893b4b3a062844662e437ea9.jpg    P1380354s.jpg.3a18f8f0e7f25edb4285e7e4e33ae30c.jpg

^ the wire-like lock washers had buried themselves into the aluminium and part of the resultant rim had cracked and was about to break off.  

I did check the tappet clearances before I undid anything and ..bearing in mind I'd carefully adjusted these just 2-weeks previously, they were all over the shot.  From front to rear they were 1ex 0.010" / 1in  0.012" / 2in 0.008" / 2ex 0.010" / 3ex 0.014" / 3in 0.010" / 4in 0.008" / 4ex 0.012".   I see no rhyme nor reason.

Anyway, I had a good rocker assembly (from my spare engine) and so, because I'm presently having to work in a sandy dust bowl - the intent was to just quickly swap the assembles, and of course to fit plain washers.  At the same time I would remove the loose pedestal studs, clean out their threads and to refit those with a little Loctite thread-lock.  

..a 5 minute job then.. but just then, appearing from behind a tall barn the skies turned grey, the northerly wind picked up into a bit of a fury and it started to snow.  I thought I'd just wait it out inside my shipping container, but while in there - I'd get on and check the push-rods ; that their ends were tight and the rods themselves were straight.   More haste, less thinking and far less speed !   In my hurry to get the assembly off and the pushrods (kept in order into a tray), the engine cover temporarily back in place, the car's roof up ..and for me to get out of the momentary blizzard - I didn't stop to think.. and the suction of the push-rod ends in their sockets pulled four of the eight valve lifters out of their guides. I am so blinking stupid at times !

Hey ho.., as it turned out the worst of the weather blew over pretty quickly, but then I spent an hour or more with a cold northerly up my jacksie, and a magnet on a length of plastic tube, together with a piece of small-bore copper pipe (non magnetic) trying to poke the followers back into their holes.  I succeeded ..but I consider myself very fortunate.  I then proceeded with getting on with the "five-minute" job.    

Unfortunately, when reassembled and with tappets correctly readjusted, the engine is just as tappity as before.  The sound appears to be coming from the middle of the engine.  The noise was there before I pulled the valve guides out so it's not something I've done.  I'm now following Nick Brooks's topic in TR4/4A Forum  < here >

Aside from that, this past week I've only been sourcing and getting in bits for the next jobs to be done.. heater hoses and other rubber & related components.

Pete.

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Rocker pedestal retaining.

Replace the 4 nuts and washers with A series head nuts that incorporate washers, the go to upgrade.

http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/CAM4545.aspx

image.jpeg.9af2e6df42ca31ab3c5b6a0879a6c3b3.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Link to post
Share on other sites

April 19th.. 

This past Thursday a number of TR friends met up - table of six at the Alma, for the first time in months.  I was too late in getting my camera out to record our table, but Mike, who so very kindly let me drive his fabulous TR4A when I first joined the Register, a year or so back, brought along 'Triggers'  his recently (December) acquired TR6 . . .

P1380360as.jpg.35cbb41dcc6ea89de544d59449148818.jpg

It's a really very nice car, with Moss leather seats and a whole lot of everything replaced by prior owners. The chassis is tubular and said to be much stiffer than the original types, to the point where the suspension poly-bushes may benefit if replaced for a softer variant.  Mike tells us that much of the body and all four inner wings were then replaced ..but that the bulkhead may be original !  Similarly, the engine has been recondition and then changed again and so who knows what exactly is original (..hence the ref to Trigger's broom ).  That said - I was just so impressed by how neat the panel gaps were and how solidly together the car now is.  I believe Mike's has done a number of jobs recently and that has included finely adjusting the doors so they shut beautifully ..as quiet and reassuring as a modern production car.

Conversely, but just for the time being (..because I have recently bought but not yet fitted replacement door locks) Katie's  doors, and all her other panels for that matter, sound more like the biscuit tin of a garage spares with loose bits n' fastenings in it, where the door glass, door lock rods, and every bit of trim rattles. And the passenger door only shuts at all with a very  affirmative slam.   Mike certainly does set very high standards for me to aspire to.  Thanks Mike.  She's fabulous.  I wish you fun motoring and safe journeys

- - -

Back to my own reality, with the next job on my list.  Thanks to Mark in Wolverhampton, my ever kind friend Rich, and also the TR Shop, the parts I next needed are mostly in.  And so yesterday, as it was a nice day to be outside, I tackled Katie's heater hoses. . .

P1380366s.jpg.b4de6dc256fe9eb834b03bcc6602ab48.jpg

With the water drained down (bottom hose off the radiator) I removed the intertwined battery earth wire, the heater hoses over the bulkhead, the superfluous PCV valve bracket, and also secured the bracket for the pipe around around the back of the engine to the manifold stud.  With the battery leads off and the starter solenoid now revealed and removed, I photographed its wiring connections.

 

P1380368s.jpg.d726f88606d96707ef2973938d7a1ad9.jpg

Oddly ..to my way of thinking, both the '+' lead from the battery and the wire to the starter motor were / are connected to the same terminal on the solenoid.  I'm only vaguely familiar with their workings but I would have thought one wire goes to each pole, otherwise (as is ) the solenoid is just a live wire connector and not a solenoid. no ?   Yes Ok., I need to look in workshop manual, and I assume that is also the same for when used with a hi-torque starter motor ?   

Anyways today's task was to replace heater hoses. . . 

P1380375s.jpg.80f941bac134081c3ee37eae7c27fc1d.jpg

^ I started by removing the steering wheel for better access and unscrewed / pulled out the footwell carpets.  This is what I had, and tbh I was not impressed with its design layout nor access.  Systematically I un-ravelled the wires poked up there, and the ducting from the screen demist,  and then with a catch pot for the heater's water removed each jubilee clip and the twist of hoses from the heater to the bulkhead connector.

P1380382s.jpg.79c2ae8e42e966a76df623a898952c46.jpg

^ the old and the new were not exactly the same shape but I guess they would do.  The end of the old pipe (bottom of photo) was badly perished and it and the other old hose (top right) had both been aggressively clamped and yet still had leaked when I touched them. 

P1380379s.jpg.d2200383ffdd902a45c345fc404172fc.jpg

^ how long does it take to get two screws out ?  Well these two took quite a while.  I think they are in (soft) stainless steel and were an interference fit in the connector piece which had damaged its thread, and then had a 8mm nut on the inside.  Access to the bottom one is close to the bulkhead shelf and difficult to get a screwdriver on square (at if it was to be turned by fingers). Bottom line was that it wasn't long before the Philips or is a Pozi-drive screw head wasn't happening with any of the many screwdrivers I have ..and so I resorted to grips.  It was an illegitimate thing to get undone.

The new connector piece (in SS) is now held in place with hex-head set screws.  

P1380385s.jpg.c1de312a5d3b5609290e4a12727e89e4.jpg

^ the new hoses in place.  It's a rotten rotten job to get those pipes on, and even now they're not exactly the same twist as was before, but I hope they'll now be good for many years.  Btw., I'm swapping to these wire clips throughout. They have limited adjustment so teh right size is needed, but then again because they bind so locally - they take very little pressure to seal.

With those done I refitted the ducting hose and, the car's steering wheel, horn etc., and with it getting later in the day (so needing to get things back together or else walk home !) I set to the engine side of the bulkhead. The heater hose that TR Shop had supplied were just straight lengths of rubber hose, but Rich had kindly supplied me with the lower pipe with 90 degrees which sits alongside the starter solenoid and then turns to join the pipe around the back of the engine. That was quick to fit. The one to the heater valve revealed a little issue. . .

P1380386s.jpg.ac5dd336502bd824228d049b384fea5d.jpg 

^ oops !  ..in turning the valve to a better angle to intersect the heater hose (before it was facing the battery's stay) it  fell orf in m 'and.   

Oddly enough this had been working and providing copious amounts of heat to the heater matrix.  I'm not sure if its bi-metal corrosion had happened since this was last touched or whether it had been glued in place ..perhaps both.  But as the time was a quarter to five on a Friday evening I was in the doo doo ! 

I cleaned out the softish crud inside, and used a blade to find the threads in the adapter piece.  I then filed the valve to get rid of its shoulder (painted green) and tried to sweat a thread back into the aluminium. It worked for a bit but of course diecast aluminium isn't a ductile metal, and so it would strip out again. 

Walk home or bodge it ?

. . .

. .

I bodged it .. by sweating the valve on to get a bite of thread together with Araldite.  It's in there by about 8 - 10mm and I let the adhesive cure while putting the radiator's bottom hose back on, refitted the battery, then (again bodged) the earth wire to the voltage regulator (which had literally broken in two), and put my tools in the boot.

The radiator was refilled and the car left to run so that the thermostat would open and water would fully circulate ..to let the bubbles out. After a fountain and shower things settled down and the water level stayed where it should be.  

Finally the job, of just replacing four heater hoses, was done (..well sort of) as the light started to fade., just after 7pm.  Katie got me home without issue and the cooling / heater system is holding its 7psi pressure.. but I'll not test to the limit just how secure the Araldite is holding it together. 

I was glad not to have to walk home.  :rolleyes:  After an 8hr non-stop shift I was tired 

On or about the 26th of this month, I hope to be moving home again ..to a ground floor apartment with a patio where I can work on the car, and where I'll have electricity.  I'll not have the sandy dust everywhere, I'll have longer sunlight hours (less shade), and if the weather changes or things happen and don't get done ..then it's not a big deal.   Although it'll be outside - I really look forward to having my own work space again.

Today, I browsed through the archives and read what y'all have to say about heater valves < here >  Thank you Gentlemen.  I've now ordered a Four Seasons 74648 Heater Valve from Rock Auto which today cost £37.12 including tax with Fex-Ex international Economy

Pete.

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at that solenoid arrangement Pete, it seems it is just being used as a terminal and not as a solenoid at all. Perhaps that means someone has fitted a pre-engaged starter. Those have a solenoid on the motor so the one on the bulkhead would be redundant. 

Edited by RobH
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at the photo, The white wire which would normally go to the coil on the solenoid has been extended down to the starter motor, confirming that a pre- engage type is fitted.  This links to another thread on here re how best to wire in a pre-engaged type motor.

 

Bob.

 

Edited by Lebro
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Pete, you own a TR4A RHD, don't you?

On the ones LHD there is a "linkage return spring" on the lever on your first photo, I can't see it.

This brings me to a perhaps usefull post: "Please take a look under my bonned".

Show photos and got answers about what you never asked yourself :lol:

Additional I added an article for you about how to adjust the carb linkange on HS6-TR4As.

Sorry me for my poor english text of the atricle.

Ciao, Marco

Gasgestänge HS6 einstellen Heft 03-2016.PDF

Edited by Z320
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Rob & Bob, I'll look into this further.  

The receipt I have for the starter motor is from TRGB, dated July 2004 for part number GEU4412X, which doesn't correspond to their current website's on-line search.  But it's a generic number used by Moss for their hi-torque motor from Wosp Performance. I'd have to have a look with the phone's camera to see what it is I actually have.  I'll then have look at the link you kindly provided to see what wiring is needed / recommended.

The car has not been restored nor maintained to original spec., and so I'm not at all fussed about keeping its original solenoid. The button is very awkwardly positioned, and tbh I can't remember using a solenoid's button very often ..even when they were commonplace, so it won't be missed.  Conversely, I'd prefer to not have the extra connections &/or its exposed live terminals.

I'm thinking of moving the battery off the bulkhead shelf anyway, so I'll explore the options of where else to site it before I make a new battery lead from the battery directly to the motor. 

cheers, Pete.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Marco,  yes Katie is a RHD (from original if that matters)

I'm not understanding where to find the post "Please take a look under my bonnet"  ..but I do like answers for questions I have not yet answered.  Thanks.

You are seeing a missing spring, huh ..in the throttle linkage ?  I think that is very likely.!  I will have to copy your pdf file onto a remote hard-drive and try to read it on my old Vaio computer ..as this Dell no longer reads pdf's.   Yes, I know it's way past the time I invest in c.21st technology, but the c.20th worked just fine for me. :rolleyes:

Pete.

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Pete

I don't see a missing spring, I see a spring missing (sorry me, you throw that ball).

Here is one photo from above....

ywDAoNSJAb-jEneYIfqi9eKzUO5wr9ud9IRktbub

And one from below...

BfrDHCBcNUcRjRnZU8ZfEpToDo2J8tk5CyBclwid

Please note I used a spring from my own storage because the one I bought was miuch too strong.

Ciao, Marco

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

27 minutes ago, Z320 said:

I don't see a missing spring, I see a spring missing

:D  :D

I  must get one like you show in the photo.  I was sure I heard a missing rattle.  Now I see what I couldn't hear.  :P

Link to post
Share on other sites

20th April :

I'm leaving bigger jobs until after i move next week  ..but yesterday saw particularly beautiful spring weather and so I took the opportunity for a little pottering around on the TR. 

I started off with freeing up the seized pivots to the rear stay of the folding hood frame. This stay (supposedly) hinges out of the back of the main loop to hold the rear window up.  These brackets had been ripped off before and both had weld repairs, so it is a little surprising that for the sake of a drip of oil (literally just a drip) it was left to happen again. . . 

P1380392s.jpg.3ffde1c397bb8fd755decf2415a8dd55.jpg

^ This had happened on both sides, although the other side bracket is still just about clinging on.  In due course I'll take the hood frame off and weld them up again.  In the meantime I crudely used a pair of plumber's grips to rotate the pivot as I dripped oil in.  I was surprised at just how much force, with 8" of leverage, it took to get each pivot to move. Eventually, with lubrication, they turned freely in my fingers.  Interestingly ..or not, there are 11 pivots on either side of these (TR6) hood frames that need a drip of oil every five or ten years, particularly on hood frames that are rarely put up or down.

- - -

My next little task was to adjust the steering column.  As I now have the seat right the way back, moving the steering wheel back too will give me much better clearance between it and my leg.  The TR has a split steering column inner-shaft with sliding flats on its two parts, and a clamp to hold that position.  The steering column's outer sleeve has U-clamps, which may be loosened and the column pulled out (wheel closer / shorter arm reach) or pushed further in to the dashboard.  It's not a very convenient but it is a great boon for those who are not of average size or proportion.  As I wanted to see what those clamps were and I can't see around bends (even after sucking a lemon) nor in the dark - I took a photo. . .

P1380395s.jpg.35f6c1f09a585a2cc09186d27bdecbc5.jpg

^ That light grey block is the column's clamp at the dashboard. There is another where the column comes through the bulkhead. This one has through-bolts so I needed to hold a spanner on the bolt head as I slackened off the nut.  I'll have to see if those bolts were originally captive or perhaps square headed, so as to not turn, because as it was this was an awkward little episode !   The clamp at the bulkhead was much easier ..although I couldn't see it, it felt more like a u-bolt, so just a 3/8" drive socket on its extension undid that easily. 

I've been advised that the stay to the dashboard clamp is incorrectly positioned, and that it shouldn't cross at an angle to the column, but for the time being I'll live with it ..and just get on and adjust the column's position.

P1380398s.jpg.a83789d4a5bef692b0971ce803894ebe.jpg

^ From the engine bay's side of the bulkhead this is the steering column's outer sleeve, protruding (as it was) by about 80mm. The clamp which holds the two parts of the steering column shaft in place is that block with the two bolts through it.  The rubber doughnut / coupling can be seen to the bottom right of the picture.  And Katie's  new heater hoses, now with original type wire clips, is across the top of this piccie. Yes the instrument cable was just hanging loose and being chafed by the coupling.

After my adjustment ; the column's protrusion is now about 38 mm, so I've pulled the steering wheel and column, with its switches, back by 42mm (just over 1-1/2").  I'll try it there and see how it feels.  Just sitting in the driver's seat - it feels much better clearance but whether the reach for my arms is now comfortable or too close remains to be seen (.. or felt !).

While, focused on the steering column, it was a good opportunity to replace those rubber couplings, after all they were not probably not replaced when the car was restored 22 years ago. . .

P1380396s.jpg.4c31f9609c947a7850296fc3aaa7d7f2.jpg

^ I'm sure they had years of service still in them but I'm just replacing any perished rubber I see ..so that I can drive the car and feel a little more reassured by its reliability and safety.   You'll see above that the bolts had not been lock wired. And I saw no evidence that thread lock had been used, nor were there lock washers, instead.

P1380402s.jpg.ea86572637abecea7dc2d92f06ab1b3b.jpg

^ The old and the new.  The hole through the centre is where the horn's earthing wire goes through the rubber coupling (rather than around the outside where it might get snagged). 

I'd guess the old rubber had deformed a little because when I reassembled the coupling with the new rubber I needed to use a B&D Workmate to pinch the holes closer together (by about 3mm (1/8") before i could get the bolt through.  Of course it may just be that the new rubber is of metric dimension.  Anyway they went together fine. 

P1380405s.jpg.355a178faab061bcf769b5995dc06f06.jpg

^ The reassembled coupling with new rubber and its bolts cross lock-wired.  NB.  if you're doing this task, do have a 1.5mm drill-bit ready to clean out the holes for the lock wires.  One had a wire broken off inside and it took almost an hour to drill it out.  I had just one drill-bit of that size, and of course they do bend and break off very easily ..I was lucky.  The braided earth-wire can just be seen ..tucking in between the metal and going through the centre of the rubber.  That wire has an eye connector on each end which fits below a bolt head into either side splined clamp. 

P1380406s.jpg.3396a0490b42e285f14bfe3d0d353a32.jpg

I replaced both couplings.  ^ This was the bottom one, close to the steering rack. It's easily removed, to be rebuilt on the bench, by undoing the clamp bolt nearest the rack and simply tapping the coupling upwards off its spline, together with the column's shaft (the top coupling having already been removed).  You can see here that one of its splines onto the shaft was loose, and wearing every looser.  When the rubber was replaced, I reassembled it by reversing the couplings, top to bottom. Their slight difference in fit tightened everything up nicely.

P1380407s.jpg.287d4f751755996a4aa7c53316b50c58.jpg

^ another job done.  Because I working outside my apartment block I didn't have my spare nuts n' bolts & washers for those clamps, but these are now easily accessible to be swapped-out in due course.  Likewise the cable strap holding the instrument cable away from the coupling is just temporary. 

That's it for yesterday.

Pete.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

20th April :

After yesterday, I didn't get much of anything done today.  Being woken at 5:15am by a neighbour readying themselves for early morning work (..poor sod), and then not getting back to sleep ..until after my alarm went off.  And then not waking up until quarter to eleven.  Not a good start to my day,  so I wrote what I posted and then went out to combat a clatter - the bonnet which rattles n' shakes more than a ice cocktail in a smashed shaker. .

Upon investigation I found this . . . 

P1380408s.jpg.edc95c1d00fae7cb53b6b8d8b835b3f7.jpg

^ The keen eyed observer will note its lock nut ..fully unscrewed.  I wound the dovetail latch (screwdriver in its end slot) back in by 3-1/2 turns, tried the bonnet for its closed fit, before tightening that lock-nut.  Now the bonnet pulls down to the rubbers on both sides rather than bouncing around on the sprung latch. 

Funny how that job took 10 minutes to identify, look up in the manual how to adjust it, and then do the job and it makes more difference than 8 hours working on the car yesterday. !

I then made a couple of urgent phone calls to the TR Register's office, re. my passwords, before heading out in the car to a farm shop for my green groceries.  Came back via the dust bowl / my storage container where I sorted out and collected tools n' bits for the next tasks I want to tackle.   

During that little drive, the bonnet rattle is many times better ..so that I can now more clearly hear numerous other tappeties, rattles, and whirring noises.  

And the steering wheel is now sufficiently clear of my leg.  In fact I wonder if it might go forward again by half an inch as a better compromise to a slightly straighter arm driving position.  Should anyone find their steering heavy at parking speeds - they might try bringing their steering wheel closer. The geometry and ergonomics of doing this makes the steering a good bit easier as such speeds.   

> By the way, I propose adhering anti-drum / sound deadening to the underside of the bonnet .. Any recommendations ?  Nothing that looks too modern please.

Cheers, Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Peter,

when oyu have time consider modifying the steering rubber UJ splined clamps

There is a serious design fault that stop one fully tightening the clamp up.

I used a milling machine to cut a slot but others use a hacksaw.  This allows the clamp to work correctly with little force on the clamping bolt.

The shiny triangular area is steel stopping the clamp to close correctly.

Roger 

P1040609a.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes indeed Roger, Good point which I'd noted but then also didn't have the tools at hand to tackle.  By the look of it your milled slot is probably 4 - 5mm wide.  So I could probably cut part of the way down with an angle grinder with a 3mm thick cutting disk,  and perhaps finish the depth of cut with a Dremel. 

Pete.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, RogerH said:

Hi Peter,

when oyu have time consider modifying the steering rubber UJ splined clamps

There is a serious design fault that stop one fully tightening the clamp up.

I used a milling machine to cut a slot but others use a hacksaw.  This allows the clamp to work correctly with little force on the clamping bolt.

The shiny triangular area is steel stopping the clamp to close correctly.

Roger 

Hi Roger,

I won my own bet from yesterday :D 

this issue is our challenge and we both are transparent like window glas.

here are my hacksaw photos

Edited by Z320
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Roger and Marco.  Very useful to see how they are improved. 

Once I get set up with a work-space and vice again.. I can do that.  Using a hacksaw as illustrated by Marco looks easier for me. 

Cheers, Pete.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Z320 said:

Hi Roger,

I won my own bet from yesterday :D 

this issue is our challenge and we both are transparent like window glas.

here are my hacksaw photos

Hi Marco,

If anybody posts a pic of an unmodified splined clamp then I will offer my suggestion, as you would with yours.

It is a safety critical item.

Both methods achieve the same result (positive clamping). Marco's method is easiest (I wish  had thought of that) but mine highlights the problem.

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

^  Perhaps when I look at it, I'll combine the two suggestions. B)

- - -

21st April :

This afternoon I had a few hours so tackled a floor .. and it beat me to the ground ..boom, boom :lol:  I'll be here all week folks !

. . .

:ph34r:  Sorry, I'm obviously in need of a tall shot of brandy.

Anyways up.. since having the gearbox out to do the clutch I've neither refitted the gearbox cover, the carpets, the dashboard support H-frame, or the passenger's seat.  I wasn't keen when I saw the floors painted still in primer, and the driver's floor had obviously suffered at some time as a consequence of wet feet on carpet with felt underlay.  The gearbox tunnel will be coming out again soon after I move, but today I sought to clean up the passenger footwell and get some decent paint on it.  At the same time I might closely inspect it for rust or failure.  With its under-felt removed, this is what I had . . .

   P1380409s.jpg.0d7d1b5399fb817a13895c85899635c9.jpg

^ The handwriting next to the chassis mount appears to be two dates, 27-10-98 and then 19-06-99, which correspond to when the car was restored and these floors were replaced, some 21 years ago.  The car has been garaged since and all the floors are still in good shape. 

This, passenger footwell, is better than that of the driver's. And like that side, these carpets had been screwed down, ie., self tappers through the panels, some of which were rusting.  Personally I don't like self tappers through the car's panel - not least because they initiate rust, but also because the pointy ends always seem to find a way of making painful holes in my skin. 

I also don't like fitted footwell carpets in an open top car.  Such cars, particularly older British ones, have a habit of getting sodden inside, so from the day I first had a Mk.II Spitfire (of the Triumph variety, rather than Supermarine) I've often had to take the carpets out to drip dry. And that's also useful on the rare occasion I actually brush them off.

Below these screwed carpets was appears to be natural fibre under-felt.  And that was glued in with something incredibly hard and beige looking.  I remember using a foaming glue in boat-building at one time, and this stuff appears to be equally as hard, and as determined not to chip off.  I exaggerate not when I say it took me 2-1/2 hours to chisel the lumps off ..just this one floor (the adhesive ridges were generally a couple of mm high) . . .

P1380412s.jpg.0757048d0751abff43251fa18c091275.jpg

^ Yes the floor does appear to be buckled. I need to investigate that rear chassis mount anyway. 

In the top left hand corner you'll note a dark line between the sill and the side kick plate.  That is a gap of flaky rust and so fails to be structural.  It will at some time need to be cut out and repaired.  

I had also been down under in the footwell with my cordless drill and wire brush to clean off the underside of the bulkhead (the underside of the shelf where the battery sits).  There was only light surface rust up there and otherwise places where the car's original conifer green paint could be seen. 

I wiped the floor over with acetone, particularly where it was grubby from where the gearbox had been lifted out.   And then I donned my old hat and rubber gloves to get in there and paint it. . .

P1380413s.jpg.0e9f8c6266d7f15264f1c89589da2e40.jpg

^ it's not Hammerite, but POR15.  Just a thin coat rubbed in to the crevices (except that one seam that needs to be repaired).  And yes it does look sorta awful  ..But on the other hand I trust the product and it will reflect light up under the dashboard for when I investigate wiring and other jobs in there.  

Unfortunately. . .

P1380415s.jpg.c5d3e419018f317d6688f8654941eb91.jpg

The big rubber bung had been sealed with black silicon sealant and although I'd cleaned it off and wiped it over with acetone., the silicon residue clearly wasn't cleaned off well enough.  Indeed my hasty efforts to clean the whole floor with acetone may have just served to spread the silicon around, all over the place, because this paint now has fish-eyes.. all over the place.     :angry:  I flipping hate silicon sealant. 

There's nothing I can do about it right now. I'll wait until the POR15 is cured and then wipe it over again with acetone to see if I can shift the silicon before giving it a second coat.  Hey ho. such are the joys of chemical reactions. 

Bidding you a good evening.

Pete.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.