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They all work "first time round", it's on subsequent filter changes that they start to leak, this is down to the upper rubber seal (they one you used to replace every time you change the filter) now being retained. the part between it, & the screw on filter is able to rotate when you unscrew the old filter, & so on re-tightening

it is often in a different place on the old seal, & that's where they leak from. The kits can be modified to eliminate this (see my TRaction article) or I believe some are available which have got around the problem.

Since you have not changed the oil yet, don't be surprised if you continue to get "salad cream" in the rocker area, there is probably still a fair amount of water in the sump.

Bob.

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Pete - DON'T give up with owning a TR - there are other cars out there - just put the word out on here and elsewhere and I'm sure something will come up Chin up  Cheers Rich

Or these people? http://www.leacyclassics.com/parts/classicmini/engine-components/2k7440.html Roger

. Carrying on from TR4 -v- Tr4A engine, and my purchasing a 'spare'  < here >  ..so that I might get on and have an engine ready by the time the Chance is actually bought and shipped,  we h

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37 minutes ago, Bfg said:

 

It has also been suggested that I add a couple of cups of cheapo washing soda to the water, to run it and then flush it again.  Any thoughts on doing that ?

 

Don't do that. It will corrode your thermostat housing. Use a proper automotive flushing compound.

Pete

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Cheers Bob, I can't access that file as I've always have problem logging on to the main site, and I don't like to keep disturbing the girls in the office.  And following on from what Ian has said about pdf's, this sad old computer has also stopped reading them.  I'll search through the archive topics of this 'ere forum to see exactly what you're talking about, otherwise a friend has been a member of the club longer than myself and probably has magazine 307 from 2018 in his bookshelf..  But it sounds as if the adapter is in two parts and without being properly locked together they can twist relative to each other when the cartridge is later undone, and thereafter they may leak. That ought to be easy enough to rectify now that I know about it.

Pete, I'll accept your advice re not using washing soda.  On reflection, perhaps it's best not to delve into chemical cleaning anyway. I'll poke gently around to better clear the engine block's drain plug after I've run the car a bit and then I'll drain it down / flush it with fresh water again, before adding rust inhibiting antifreeze.  That is of course assuming its cylinder head gasket leak has now been rectified.  Sometime soon I'll also be changing the hoses. But if I then don't presently have a cooling issue then I'll not look for problems.. They have a nasty tendency to find me all on their own !   

Roy, the plug in the head also looks suspect to me but I wasn't prepared to poke at it without having one in stock to replace it with.  It'll be on my next shopping list. 

Thanks all. 

Next job is to remove the passenger seat and H-frame, and to loosen the gearbox cover ready for the gearbox to be lifted out on Thursday.  I'm told I have a TR6 dashboard H-frame in there, which might account for why it's a particularly tight gap between it and the steering wheel.

Pete.

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Thanks Ian for the recommendation.  I'm keeping my fingers and toes crossed that torquing the head down will work.

I didn't check tappet clearance before doing the task, but I did think to check #3 before readjusting it, and it measured 0.003" clearance ..suggesting that the gasket has now been squished by a further seven-thou.  Unfortunately I can't rely on that because three or four tappets needed hardly any adjustment at all.  So either they were very loose before or .. whatever.? 

Time will reveal all  .. or perhaps nothing at all.?   :rolleyes:

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Pete,

Just wanted to say how much I am enjoying and learning from your posts. I bought my 4a last August, it needs a lot of tidying and your posts really have been helping me understand things.

Thanks and I hope you keep up the good work.

Alistair.

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Pete I’m at work at the moment but my last oil filter adapter is one unit not two like Bobs, as i was having oil problems after the engine rebuild when I am home tomorrow I’ll dig out the paperwork for it, I think I

had it from Moss.

Mike Redrose group 

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14 hours ago, Bfg said:

 

 

.  I'm told I have a TR6 dashboard H-frame in there, which might account for why it's a particularly tight gap between it and the steering wheel.

Pete.

There is very little difference in the TR6 "H" frame to the 4a one and size isnt one of them It wouldnt make any difference to leg room.

Stuart.

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16 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

Thks Bob.  I tried searching but because it is a pdf the Le Brocq didn't work for me.

Rgds Ian

Ian Bob - The forum thread you are looking for is Titled    oil filter conversion or not?   put that in the search andyou should find it - It helped me stop my oil leak

Andrew 

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Thanks Stuart, That is useful to know. B) I will have to explore alternative arrangements then. 

I was laying in bed thinking last night about my driving position, and remembering that the two cars I drove back-to-back at our East Saxon group meeting were each better in terms of shoulder width.  In Katie  I am being pushed to the left by the TR6 folded hood frame against my right shoulder, and that of course aligns the pedals (relative to my bum) even further offset to the right.   I realised the Mike's car is a 4A with a fitted Surrey top ..so no hood frame, and Rich's car is a TR4.  I'm not certain but I think those frames have less of a dog-leg near their bottom hinge and so fits closer to the B-post.  

Again I am uncertain but I think Mike's car has MX5 seats whereas Rich's TR4 has the slimmer (than TR4A) seats.  

I'm thinking that the particularly fat bolsters in the 4A seats conspire with the TR6 hood frame, and a large, shallow-dished steering wheel to make my driving position less comfortable than others.  Of course having a 46" chest (in a T-shirt) and biceps in proportion don't help one iota, but I can't do much about about those, whereas I can alter the car.  :ph34r:   

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2 minutes ago, ANFRUSSELL said:

Ian Bob - The forum thread you are looking for is Titled    oil filter conversion or not?   put that in the search andyou should find it - It helped me stop my oil leak

Andrew 

Thanks Andrew,  much appreciated. I've just saved that as a book mark for my studies this evening.

Pete.

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13 hours ago, Ali King said:

Pete,

Just wanted to say how much I am enjoying and learning from your posts. I bought my 4a last August, it needs a lot of tidying and your posts really have been helping me understand things.

Thanks and I hope you keep up the good work.

Alistair.

That's very kind of you to say so.  I read this and thought someone was taking the mickey out of me, it's really that unexpected.  But I'm very glad that my two finger typing has been helpful and perhaps entertaining. I have lots of things I yet need to do and possibly as many again as I would like to do ..so watch this space.   All the very best with your own 4A and please do feel free to share.

Pete.    

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8 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Thanks Stuart, That is useful to know. B) I will have to explore alternative arrangements then. 

I was laying in bed thinking last night about my driving position, and remembering that the two cars I drove back-to-back at our East Saxon group meeting were each better in terms of shoulder width.  In Katie  I am being pushed to the left by the TR6 folded hood frame against my right shoulder, and that of course aligns the pedals (relative to my bum) even further offset to the right.   I realised the Mike's car is a 4A with a fitted Surrey top ..so no hood frame, and Rich's car is a TR4.  I'm not certain but I think those frames have less of a dog-leg near their bottom hinge and so fits closer to the B-post.  

Again I am uncertain but I think Mike's car has MX5 seats whereas Rich's TR4 has the slimmer (than TR4A) seats.  

I'm thinking that the particularly fat bolsters in the 4A seats conspire with the TR6 hood frame, and a large, shallow-dished steering wheel to make my driving position less comfortable than others.  Of course having a 46" chest (in a T-shirt) and biceps in proportion don't help one iota, but I can't do much about about those, whereas I can alter the car.  :ph34r:   

TR6 Hood frame folded is more bulky your right, hence better to try and find a correct 4a one or as you say fit a Surrey(honeybourne ones arent expensive) over stuffed seats dont help as Ive stated before. Plus the door cappings also encroach slightly. Im a good size and 6`4" so I have similar problems, I have also slightly altered the pedals on mine so even when wearing size 11 work boots I can still rest my foot on the dipswitch without it encroaching on the clutch pedal and lined all three pedals up together which also makes for more comfortable driving.

Stuart.

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2 minutes ago, brenda said:

Morning Pete the spin on adapter TR3 4a that I have one peace is Moss part No TT10861.

Mike Redrose group 

Brilliant thank you Mike.  I'll check it out and add it to the shopping list.  That is assuming of course you do recommend it's worth doing.

Pete.  

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22 minutes ago, ANFRUSSELL said:

Ian Bob - The forum thread you are looking for is Titled    oil filter conversion or not?   put that in the search andyou should find it - It helped me stop my oil leak

Andrew 

Thks Andrew. 

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Pete, have a look at the thread on the 4a forum regarding passenger side carpet as the OP has a pair of original cloth MX seats that would be ideal to give you more leg room as theyre not overstuffed restored ones.

Stuart.

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1 minute ago, stuart said:

TR6 Hood frame folded is more bulky your right, hence better to try and find a correct 4a one or as you say fit a Surrey(honeybourne ones arent expensive) over stuffed seats dont help as Ive stated before. Plus the door cappings also encroach slightly. Im a good size and 6`4" so I have similar problems, I have also slightly altered the pedals on mine so even when wearing size 11 work boots I can still rest my foot on the dipswitch without it encroaching on the clutch pedal and lined all three pedals up together which also makes for more comfortable driving.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart,  I'll certainly have to change the hood frame as driving with a twisted back will kill me over any driving distance. At present I sit with left cheek on the bolster to straighten myself up a bit.    Katie doesn't have 4A door cappings, which is how I prefer it. 

I've been planning to fit roll-over protection with a hard Surrey top lid, but of course my first priority is to bring the car up to a driveable and safe condition mechanically.   

The job today or tomorrow is to remove the H-frame and carpets in readiness of the gearbox coming out on Thursday, so I'll definitely have a closer look at the pedal positions and how they may be improved for my own particular needs.  I like the foot dip switch, but I think for the sake of my size-13s it'll have to move. 

Pete.

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6 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Thanks Stuart,  I'll certainly have to change the hood frame as driving with a twisted back will kill me over any driving distance. At present I sit with left cheek on the bolster to straighten myself up a bit.    Katie doesn't have 4A door cappings, which is how I prefer it. 

I've been planning to fit roll-over protection with a hard Surrey top lid, but of course my first priority is to bring the car up to a driveable and safe condition mechanically.   

The job today or tomorrow is to remove the H-frame and carpets in readiness of the gearbox coming out on Thursday, so I'll definitely have a closer look at the pedal positions and how they may be improved for my own particular needs.  I like the foot dip switch, but I think for the sake of my size-13s it'll have to move. 

Pete.

See my above post regarding MX seats too.

Stuart.

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5 minutes ago, stuart said:

See my above post regarding MX seats too.

Stuart.

Have done, and posted a reply to Andy,  as I'd also like to fit red carpets in my car.

Cheers, Pete.

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