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Propshaft Removal


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I am going to remove the propshaft in order to fit new UJ's can I do this just from underneath without removing the tunnel, and is there room with the chassis bridge and diff in place to drop the propshaft The manual makes it sound ok but I have been told the tunnel may have to come off which I would rather avoid.

Rob

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Hi Rob

Even if it could be done which I doubt, it makes more sense to remove the prop from underneath its 8 nuts/bolts then you can get at everything and use a vice to press the cups out and in.

Andy

Opps should have gone to spec savers! Read twice answer once.

Edited by PodOne
mis read OP
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57 minutes ago, Robert Price said:

I am going to remove the propshaft in order to fit new UJ's can I do this just from underneath without removing the tunnel, and is there room with the chassis bridge and diff in place to drop the propshaft The manual makes it sound ok but I have been told the tunnel may have to come off which I would rather avoid.

Rob

With the rear wheels off the ground then all prop nuts/bolts can be undone.  On my 4A the prop comes out forward and down.

You may need to remove the exhaust pipe.

 

Roger

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Hi did mine a little while back and it was pretty simple to get out. If you are changing the UJs consider the tool I mention on my recent UJ thread. Made the whole process super easy.

Tim

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That all sound positive, may have to remove the exhaust twin pipes for the front flange though but will see when I get underneath, thanks.

Rob

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Robert,

use 8 new nyloc nuts when you re-install the propshaft.

Drive shafts with UJ’s have a certain orientation between the 2 UJ’s to ensure the rotational movement is constant (they should be installed at the same angle).

I memory serves me correct, the TR shafts have one thicker spline so you cannot install them in a wrong orientation.

 

Thoroughly clean the splines and grease with molykote (molybdenium sulfide containing), or similar product (mostly this is black grease) before assembly.

Waldi

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3 hours ago, Waldi said:

I memory serves me correct, the TR shafts have one thicker spline so you cannot install them in a wrong orientation.

 

 

Waldi

Thats the drive shafts, The two sections of the prop have an arrow stamped either side of the join to line them up.If your careful you can get the prop out without removing the exhaust.

Stuart.

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I removed my TR2 prop after removing the exhaust. when replacing its tricky to get the bolts to stay in position as you slide the shaft through the chassis cruciform,i used a dab of superglue to hold the bolt heads tight to the UJ flange & used new nylocks both ends . So no need to remove the tunnel. Keith

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Make sure you mark the flange ends/yolks of the shaft before you take out the UJ's that should then keep the original positions and the balance. You don't need to mark the diff or the gearbox flanges.

Also the sliding/slip joint parts of the prop shaft goes to the front of the car, Ive  heard if its fitted to the diff it does seem to make a lot of noise for some reason.

John

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You may wish to consider getting it rebalanced?   As part of my rebuild I replaced the UJ's with decent Hardy Spicer parts but could not get the splines to slide, even using the full power of my engine crane to move it.

I took the unit to Bailey Morris in St Neots and they could not get it apart either, so they made me a new one for £150 plus VAT.  A better built unit than the original and they make and refurb propshafts for all sectors, serious classic cars up to huge plant and machinery.  Took about a week to do.

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I tried and failed to remove the propshaft from underneath. I got all the nuts loose and the bolts out, having removed the twin exhaust but I jiggled and jiggled but to no avail. I loosened the gearbox mounts and jiggled some more. I then removed the tunnel and got the gearbox mounts fully undone, jacked up the gearbox and it fell out, onto my glasses. A large gouge in £400 glasses later. An expensive mistake. 

I sent mine to Proptech in Kidderminster for a full overhaul and balance, great service at a good price. 

Mick

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Prop-shaft removed easily after taking off twin exhausts,  one UJ at diff end shot and the other on the way out, slight play in splines according to Prop Tech who now have it. They are putting on new h/duty UJ's and a coated splined shaft,  I have already fitted a pair of their drive shafts so things should be good when back together. Had hell of a job getting one joint apart on the exhaust though, the clamp had reduced the diameter, rectified it for reassembly by knocking in gradually a large socket which has pushed it back out and yes I did remove it afterwards! Thank you all for input

Rob

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Rob,

consider Mikalor exhaust clamps instead of U-clamps for the exhaust (which I assume you have now). They are wider and will not damage the pipe ends.

Waldi

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Waldi

Have bought some Norma brand ones which are the same thing they look good quality, if anyone has a twin pipe system though the rear 4 clamps need to be a larger size 51-57mm I had to send 4 back as I had not noticed the diameter change.

 

Rob

Edited by Robert Price
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Hi Rob,

my standard twin exhaust has only one size clamps. Apparently there are variations in pipe sizes or the swaged ends.

Cheers,

Waldi

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FWIW IRS props will always have play in the splines because they dont slide more than a mil or so backwards and forwards when in service unlike the solid axle cars where they have a good range of movement and they dont tend to wear anywhere near as bad.

Stuart.

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