Boot Handle Support

[RogerH]

The boot handle has been annoying me for a couple of years now.

The little square cut-outs that locate the handle bezel and make the lock function became badly worn.

The correct repair would be to strip back the paint and either replace the bottom of the lid (as per a  rusty bottom edge repair) or open out the hole and weld in a suitable plate

with a new hole and cut-outs.

A more simple approach (till the winter - not sure which winter though) was to put a plate over the top with a suitable hole and cut-outs.

A small plate may be could have sorted it but I had a handy piece of stainless doing nothing.

 

The hole is 22mm to fit the bezel.

The bottom lip was bent over to lock onto the lower edge of the boot. This should stop the plate moving.

I put some non-setting mastic between the plate and lid.

 

Roger

[peejay4A]

That goes rather well with your brass nuts Roger. 

[RogerH]

[Fireman049]

Hi Roger ~

Give me Brass nuts before Jap nuts!!!      

Tom. 

[stuart]

To counter that and the tendency for the skin to warp slightly when you do up the handle as the lock plate moves up the ramp I have made up an "L" shaped plate to go on the inside between the lock and the skin inside the cross bracket, it strengthens the outer skin locating slot and stops the skin bowing in as well.

Stuart..

[Geko]

Very nice Roger, could you send the details on how it wraps round the edge of the lid and the shape of the hole for the handle ? Or make 2 for Dave and me if I dare ask 

Edited May 1, 2019 by Geko
add

[RogerH]

5 hours ago, Geko said:

Very nice Roger, could you send the details on how it wraps round the edge of the lid and the shape of the hole for the handle ? Or make 2 for Dave and me if I dare ask 

Hi Stef,

               the dimensions are easily obtained by  sticking masking tape over the boot lid area and measuring from the bottom lip and drawing onto the tape.

So, cut the plate to the dimensions you need. Mine is 65mm wide. The length is cut to suit your taste.

The lip is bent over next - apprx 3mm lip.

The hole for the handle is 22mm dia.  Using the existing hole trasfer its positional dimensions onto the plate.  I use a 'Q'Max punch to get the 22mm hole.

The square cut-outs  are cut equally about the centreline. Go carefully.

I wouldn't guarantee the hole centre being accurate between cars,

 

Roger

[Geko]

Thanks for all the details Roger, I think my local should be able to do it. My worry is how he will bend the lip to a "U" shape without leaving vise marks and hammering dings on the plate. How thick is the plate: 1.5-2mm?

[RogerH]

7 hours ago, Geko said:

Thanks for all the details Roger, I think my local should be able to do it. My worry is how he will bend the lip to a "U" shape without leaving vise marks and hammering dings on the plate. How thick is the plate: 1.5-2mm?

Hi Stef,

        1mm thick.  The lip is 'L' shaped - nothing too clever. 

Hold the sheet between two clean lumps of flat steel and tap the lip over.

A vice will do it if you have some clean smooth jaws.

 

Remember to bend the lip BEFORE measuring and cutting the hole.

 

Roger

Edited May 2, 2019 by RogerH

[Geko]

Thanks Roger, I want it "U" shaped ! Probably a bit more difficult...

[RogerH]

Hi Stef,

         U shaped is overkill but if that is what you want.  It is not that difficult.

Your man will need a former with the thickness = to the thickness of the boot skin assembly in that area.

You still need to make the U lip first - before cutting the hole.

 

Roger