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Screen frame repaint


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The screen frame on my tr6 is a little tatty looking in places, and it’s showing up the rest of the car now!

so i’m thinking of repainting the visible satin black paint.

thought i would remove the riveted on silver coloured hood attachment plate, remove the tired door window seals, sand, mask, prime carefully and spray using Tough Black

questions :

the riveted on hood attachment plate, is this just riveted on or should i expect it to be stuck/sealed?

which door rubbers should i go for, there seem to be ‘thick’ and ‘thin’ available from moss?

any other difficulties with this ‘easy job’ ??

steve

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Have a very good look at the outer lower corners of your frame as likely as not it will be rotted out in which case remove and repair is the only thing to do, if not the the finisher should have some sealant under it though it will probably be rock hard by now, replace with non setting windscreen sealer, the two types of rubber seal (The ones that go up the "A" post and up the forward edge of the frame) are determined by how close your window glass fits to the frame and you should determine that when you remove your old ones.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Well that went well!

easily drilled out the rivets and eased off the capping, the mastic was still flexible so i woder if it had been off before?

tapped the old rivet remains through the holes with a small nail and hammer, a couple needed help with a mini grinder

here is what i’m left with :-)

Ready for extensive masking, sanding, priming, paint

look out for the jext exciting episode .....

steve

59D79D8B-9792-454D-A512-794907227804.jpeg

 

Edited by Steves_TR6
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Run some electrical wire under the screen rubber to hold it away from the frame so you can mask the rubber and get paint under the edge. When you remove the wire the rubber will cover the new painted edge. Otherwise it could look a bit of a mess.

Jerry

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10 hours ago, jerrytr5 said:

Run some electrical wire under the screen rubber to hold it away from the frame so you can mask the rubber and get paint under the edge. When you remove the wire the rubber will cover the new painted edge. Otherwise it could look a bit of a mess.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry, sounds like a good idea !

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16 hours ago, stuart said:

Have a very good look at the outer lower corners of your frame as likely as not it will be rotted out in which case remove and repair is the only thing to do, if not the the finisher should have some sealant under it though it will probably be rock hard by now, replace with non setting windscreen sealer, the two types of rubber seal (The ones that go up the "A" post and up the forward edge of the frame) are determined by how close your window glass fits to the frame and you should determine that when you remove your old ones.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart

a cursory examination and the frame looks solid, i’ll check again

i’ll also keep the old seals for comparison, the drivers side is certainly close to the frame

steve

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That looks like you have the thick sponge seal up the screen side (620913) not the thin smaller rubber tadpole (620403)

Stuart please confirm. As I know the stuff has changed from OE sizes over the years.  Alan Wadley would always demand the smaller seal when he fitted these seals to ensure the glass did not get pushed about.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Update !

after more trim removal, cleaning, sanding,cleaning, masking, more masking and yet more masking..... primer !

just need to buy some Tough Black in Satin and this nice easy job will be done.

i believe the original finish would have been matt, but i prefer satin and this will match the back of the car.

thanks for the tips, especially the wire tip Jerry as that worked excellently for windscreen and bottom seal

steve

29EB0EF2-03E6-4525-A9B7-FF05AADA44F3.jpeg

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23 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

That looks like you have the thick sponge seal up the screen side (620913) not the thin smaller rubber tadpole (620403)

Stuart please confirm. As I know the stuff has changed from OE sizes over the years.  Alan Wadley would always demand the smaller seal when he fitted these seals to ensure the glass did not get pushed about.

Peter W

I normally fit the smaller ones if I have done a major rebuild on the shell i.e. floors/sills/inner sills but I have had to fit the larger ones on some customers cars where they have had unknown rebuilds.

Stuart.

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Thanks Peter and Stuart

black paint is on and masking off, looking good !

i’m unsure what the seal should look loke/do

there is the ‘furlflex’ seal all around the door edge and up the a pillar, then this secondary seal down the a pillar to about the hinge area.

what is the purpose of this second seal, shouldnt the window seal against the furlflex?

TIA !

steve

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Finished, and chuffed with the result.

thanks again for the tips :-)

steve

 

25EA9B9D-2ADC-4737-9826-9C5926EF3D3A.jpeg

 

Edited by Steves_TR6
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55 minutes ago, Mark69 said:

So you should be,lovely job. Fancy doing mine.

Was a fun job, but no i can’t see me making a living this way !

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Dont forget the sealant under the capping strip when you put it back, including a little circle of it round each rivet too.

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

Dont forget the sealant under the capping strip when you put it back, including a little circle of it round each rivet too.

Stuart.

Thanks for the reminder Stuart!

the passenger window leading edge lines up parallel with the a frame, but the drivers one is much closer to the frame at the top.

is this simple to adjust Stuart?

steve

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59 minutes ago, Steves_TR6 said:

Thanks for the reminder Stuart!

the passenger window leading edge lines up parallel with the a frame, but the drivers one is much closer to the frame at the top.

is this simple to adjust Stuart?

steve

The adjustment of the mounting bolts for the winder mechanism (Item 79 x7off) will be your first port of call and check the glass is fitted in its carrier bracket correctly (Item62). Also with the hood up check the height stop (Item 90) is adjusted correctly too.https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/body-chassis/doors-fittings/doors-fittings-tr5-6.html

Stuart.

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2 hours ago, stuart said:

The adjustment of the mounting bolts for the winder mechanism (Item 79 x7off) will be your first port of call and check the glass is fitted in its carrier bracket correctly (Item62). Also with the hood up check the height stop (Item 90) is adjusted correctly too.https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/body-chassis/doors-fittings/doors-fittings-tr5-6.html

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart

i’ve stripped off the door card ready to ‘adjust’, might have time tomorrow 

Richard, i’ve not affixed the strips yet the seals you see are the furlflex ones that grip the seam.

steve

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This is what I use for any glue jobs including those rubber "P" Shaped "A" Post seals https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1263/heat-resistant-adhesive

FWIW clean the back of the seal with some quality sprit wipe and scuff with a scotch pad to obtain the best adhesion.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Before heading into london for work today it ocurred to me that the issue might actually be the windscreen frame not being straight

careful measuring to fixed points, the hood mountings, indicates that the drivers side a pillar top is 5-7mm further back than the passenger a pillar

so i’d like to adjust the frame a few mm

i appreciate the hood will be tighter but think this will be ok

how do i adjust the windscreen frame?, and is it a good idea or am i opening a can of (tin) worms ?

steve

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You can adjust as that amount there is probably scope for you would need to slacken completely the three bolts across the front of the dash and then slacken the two bolt through the "A" post the last wing fixing bolt and the one behind then also slacken the one bolt on the inside of the frame fixing bracket under the dash and then push the top corner of the frame forward the required amount and then retighten. I tend to use a bit of wood and a jack to get it held in position then tighten the frame mounting bolts first then the last three across the front. Do be aware that you may then struggle to get your hood frame catch in that side so dont overdo it.

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

You can adjust as that amount there is probably scope for you would need to slacken completely the three bolts across the front of the dash and then slacken the two bolt through the "A" post the last wing fixing bolt and the one behind then also slacken the one bolt on the inside of the frame fixing bracket under the dash and then push the top corner of the frame forward the required amount and then retighten. I tend to use a bit of wood and a jack to get it held in position then tighten the frame mounting bolts first then the last three across the front. Do be aware that you may then struggle to get your hood frame catch in that side so dont overdo it.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart.

i shall give it a go and report back :-)

steve

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