Hawk Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 I'm looking to have Waxoyl (or similar) applied to my 6 and have been quoted anywhere between 400 and 800 pounds to have it done ..... which brings out the inner tighthness in me Is this a DIY job? I appreciate it is messy and smelly (I have done panels before but not a complete car) but I can't see it being difficult. I have access to a lift but suspect my mate will tell me to go and do one if I ask to spray waxoyl so this wold be a do at (my) home which means it would be on ramps / stands. Is it just a matter of painting on with a brush? I have a paint gun with my compressor but don't imagine it will cope with waxoyl unless I thin? And I don't have a wand for cavities. Any tips? Or should I just pay up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Hi Peter, Waxoyl can be bought with a pump and wand. Not sure how good/practical it is but it's there. Or you can go the Dinitrol aerosol direction with a very thing wand/pipe. Panels can be brushed or sprayed very easily - remember to thoroughly clean the underside of the car a couple of days beforehand. Then you have the chassis. The chassis has many internal baffles. You can see their position by marks in the underside face of the chassis. Drill access holes into the side wall (low down) and squirt plenty of whatever to completely cover the internal surface. Allow to drain (very messy) Pay particular attention around the 'T' shirt area Use blind grommets to fill the holes. Repeat very 3 or 4 years Wear goggles and well ventilated Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Peter, straightforward D-I-Y job as Roger states. I use a one litre shultz gun, on the compressor, (Less than £20) has a flexible plastic lance, with a brass stop, that has five holes in it, (Check spray in a jam jar,) bought one single tin of Waxoyl to fit, and then decant from a 5 lt can, All very easy, I gently warmed Waxoyl with a hot air gun, rather than diluted thinning, Job needs to be done on stands on the drive, and good idea to use a sheet of visqueen or similar, to hen just chuck away. I drilled 10mm holes for all the internals, and plugged afterwards, chassis do everywhere, takes a morning, once the car is on stands, personally I don't mind the smell, but folk say I'm a tad weird! John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
keith1948 Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Hi Peter You have seriously awakened my inner tightness as well. £400 to £800 could buy you between 18 and 36 gallons of Waxoyl - enough to last you a lifetime. I use Dinitrol as well as Waxoyl. Dinitrol do a thinner wax for inside cavities and a thicker one for exposed areas. If you do the job yourself then you can see whether you need to treat any of the underside with rust treatment and paint before the wax. I have used a garden sprayer to do the job with a long lance to get into nooks and crannies. Best time to do the job is on a hot day when the Waxoyl flows better. As well as inside the box chassis try to get into the thin gap between the chassis and floor panels. Inside the wheel arches is one potential rust area especially inside rear of rear wheel arches (in front of rear lights). You can thin Waxoyl with turps. Yes it is a very messy job but think of the beer money you are saving by doing it yourself! Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 The shultz guns work OK for external surfaces, I have found that they struggle to force the stuff down a long tube though, better are the guns specificaly for this job, which pressurise the "tank" to force the waxoil out, rather than rely on it being sucked out by venturi action. This type of thing (only you can get them cheaper that this) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-SG18-Air-Operated-Wax-Injector-Kit-Application-of-Wax-Rust-Inhibitor/132472721539?epid=27017003496&hash=item1ed7fd5083:g:E0UAAOSwX7BaXd8Q&frcectupt=true Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 I have used rattle cans of ML, the ones that come with a long thin tube with spraying nozzle. most time is peparation, after steam cleaning and allowing to dry for a week, you can blow any dirt still present with compressed air. I inserted a small (1/2”?) hose taped to my vacuum cleaner in the cavities where possible and blew compressed air from the other side. Also used bend wire to crape inside the chassis, most dirt was directly at the holes. Finally gave it 3 runs of ML, not the black but the amber stuff. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 And, having protected the beast, fit inner wheel arch protectors in order to minimise the damage which is done by flying stones/grit/salt and by the build-up of mud on the underside of the wings. Either DIY job (you can find descriptions here on the Forum), or purchase kit from the likes of Revington. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Thanks for all of the replies - I think you have convinced me to give it a go and I will add this to the list of my summer jobs to do. Out of curiosity, how have those of you that have done this managed with areas that are blocked by items under the car - brake / fuel lines, exhaust, diff etc. Have you removed, carefully masked or simply sprayed over? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 This will get you started https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Indasa-Car-Underbody-Wax-Protector-Black-1L-Coating-Spray-Gun-Waxoyl/113687052130?epid=1543286532&hash=item1a7846bf62:g:pM0AAOxylpNTV5YC Though I prefer the clear. once its empty refill the tin with waxoyl and carry on. be careful using the lance in cavities when inserting with the trigger pulled or removing so you dont kink the tube as the tin will split and you will be wearing it! Dont ask me how I know! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 1 hour ago, Hawk said: Thanks for all of the replies - I think you have convinced me to give it a go and I will add this to the list of my summer jobs to do. Out of curiosity, how have those of you that have done this managed with areas that are blocked by items under the car - brake / fuel lines, exhaust, diff etc. Have you removed, carefully masked or simply sprayed over? Dont spray it on the exhaust if you can but it will soon burn off and same with brake discs but it wont really hurt anything else. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Appreciate all the tips - thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Here are the locations of internal frame baffles. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Cheers - that's really useful Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Great illustration of the location of the baffles. Does anyone have a similar photo for a TR3 ? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlfredHitchcock Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 I used the gun linked by Stuart and can confirm that Bilt Hamber is an excellent conditioner for your hair. In the end I purchased something designed for the job that had a very solid container. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 Hi all I've always DIY'd this job on all the cars I've had over the past 40 years with Waxoyle apart from the last one where I used Dinatrol as there is less stink than thinning Waxoyle with white spirit. Place car on ground sheet, wear clothes/cap your happy to dump or one piece disposable suit, respirator unless you what your lungs to last forever (just don't smoke). Jack car up on stands as high as possible, remove wheels and cover discs and drums with poly bags and exhaust if you can and do the cavities and box sections first and let it drain out which it will in large amounts! Then cover the panels etc. Leave it 24 hours if you can and then fit the rubber bungs/grommets and expect the car to keep dribbling for a few weeks esp in the sun. I park mine on a ground sheet for a few weeks to catch the drips. Choose a hot day and leave the car in the sun as the wax will creep better into seams better. I use a garden sprayer which I've had for years with bits of nozzles scavenged from various Waxolyle kits which have packed up in on way or another. Going forward I'd probably keep to Dinatrol as it seems less messy if a bit more expensive. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted April 25, 2019 Report Share Posted April 25, 2019 (edited) One point, before you start check the whole chassis to make sure it does not need any welding done. For the first few months after applying waxoyl any welding will cause some interesting pops, bangs wooshes and flashes of flame. Don’t ask how I know. Chris Edited April 25, 2019 by ChrisR-4A Spelling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 10 hours ago, ChrisR-4A said: One point, before you start check the whole chassis to make sure it does not need any welding done. For the first few months after applying waxoyl any welding will cause some interesting pops, bangs wooshes and flashes of flame. Don’t ask how I know. Chris That's a great tip - thanks. You may recall that last year (1 week before heading to LMC) that I hit a huge pothole and cracked my chassis on both sides of the diff. I repaired just in time and then went over the chassis to check all was ok. But Ii will also check again before covering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 26, 2019 Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 (edited) Here’s a tip if you use a Schutz gun on a compressor make sure the thread on the can is sound. If it’s in any way doubtful don’t use it because it will come unscrewed in use and pressurised Dinitrol goes absolutely everywhere. I know this because I think I’m still wearing it some years later. Edited April 26, 2019 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 26, 2019 Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 17 minutes ago, peejay4A said: Here’s a tip if you use a Schutz gun on a compressor make sure the thread on the can is sound. If it’s in any way doubtful don’t use it because it will come unscrewed in use and pressurised Dinitrol goes absolutely everywhere. I know this because I think I’m still wearing it some years later. ....and....... waxoyl will keep your eyes rust free for many years. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted April 26, 2019 Report Share Posted April 26, 2019 (edited) Bilthamber offer large aerosol cans of rust preventative that come complete with a tube for introducing to chassis members and box sections. Two cans was more than enough for my TR3a chassis. For the underbody I used one of their other products - can't remember which one - and I also bought a can of their brush applied thick wax which I used for areas like enclosed section behind the front wings and at the rear. Rgds Ian Bilthamber Cavity wax Edited April 26, 2019 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Burgess Posted May 3, 2019 Report Share Posted May 3, 2019 Having looked into this some years ago I personally think the Bilt Hamber one is the best, its full of corrosion inhibitors, unlike waxoyl, which it certainly didn't use to have any and has no mention of them in the blurb. However it now says it kills rust? Dinitrol is also as good. The large Bilt Hamber cans are dead easy to use and the long wands are long enough to reach all the chassis baffles and also the full length of the cill section from the three little holes in the door aperture. The wands have a good 360 deg brass nozzle It comes in clear or black, I use clear for every thing. having given the car a good dose when I built it it gets about one can a year as a touch up on anything that looks a bit iffy. If you want to use Waxoyl you'd better read the safety / COSHH sheet, link below. https://www.hammerite.co.uk/files/2017/02/HM_GB_EN_WAXOYL_BLACK.pdf Dave B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 4, 2019 Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 21 hours ago, Dave Burgess said: Having looked into this some years ago I personally think the Bilt Hamber one is the best, its full of corrosion inhibitors, unlike waxoyl, which it certainly didn't use to have any and has no mention of them in the blurb. However it now says it kills rust? Dinitrol is also as good. The large Bilt Hamber cans are dead easy to use and the long wands are long enough to reach all the chassis baffles and also the full length of the cill section from the three little holes in the door aperture. The wands have a good 360 deg brass nozzle It comes in clear or black, I use clear for every thing. having given the car a good dose when I built it it gets about one can a year as a touch up on anything that looks a bit iffy. If you want to use Waxoyl you'd better read the safety / COSHH sheet, link below. https://www.hammerite.co.uk/files/2017/02/HM_GB_EN_WAXOYL_BLACK.pdf Dave B The safety sheet for the Bilt Hamber product is although heavily abbreviated (which is not good) compared to the Waxoyl one shows it to be equally toxic http://www.ppcco.com.au/fact_sheets/msds/msds_deox_dynax_UB.pdf As with all of these products and paints as well proper safety measures should be employed. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted May 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 Pah - you'll be telling me that I should stop cleaning my hands with petrol and sand next Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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