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I'm looking to have Waxoyl (or similar) applied to my 6 and have been quoted anywhere between 400 and 800 pounds to have it done ..... which brings out the inner tighthness in me :)

Is this a DIY job?  I appreciate it is messy and smelly (I have done panels before but not a complete car) but I can't see it being difficult.

I have access to a lift but suspect my mate will tell me to go and do one if I ask to spray waxoyl so this wold be a do at (my) home which means it would be on ramps / stands.

Is it just a matter of painting on with a brush?  I have a paint gun with my compressor but don't imagine it will cope with waxoyl unless I thin?  And I don't have a wand for cavities.

Any tips?  Or should I just pay up?

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Hi Peter,

Waxoyl can be bought with a pump and wand.  Not sure how good/practical it is but it's there.

Or you can go the Dinitrol aerosol direction with a very thing wand/pipe.

Panels can be brushed or sprayed very easily - remember to thoroughly clean the underside of the car a couple of days beforehand.

Then you have the chassis. 

The chassis has many internal baffles. You can see their position by marks in the underside face of the chassis.

Drill access holes into the side wall (low down) and squirt plenty of whatever to completely cover the internal surface. Allow to drain (very messy)

Pay particular attention around the 'T' shirt area

Use blind grommets to fill the holes.

Repeat very 3 or 4 years

Wear goggles and well ventilated

 

Roger

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Peter,

straightforward D-I-Y job as Roger states.

I use a one litre shultz gun, on the compressor, (Less than £20) has a flexible plastic lance, with a brass stop, that has five holes in it, (Check spray in a jam jar,) bought one single tin of Waxoyl to fit, and then decant from a 5 lt can,

All very easy, I gently warmed Waxoyl with a hot air gun, rather than diluted thinning, Job needs to be done on stands on the drive, and good idea

to use a sheet of visqueen or similar, to hen just chuck away.

I drilled 10mm holes for all the internals, and plugged afterwards, chassis do everywhere, takes a morning, once the car is on stands,

personally I don't mind the smell, but folk say I'm a tad weird!

John.

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Hi Peter

You have seriously awakened my inner tightness as well. £400 to £800 could buy you between 18 and 36 gallons of Waxoyl - enough to last you a lifetime. I use Dinitrol as well as Waxoyl. Dinitrol do a thinner wax for inside cavities and a thicker one for exposed areas. If you do the job yourself then you can see whether you need to treat any of the underside with rust treatment and paint before the wax. I have used a garden sprayer to do the job with a long lance to get into nooks and crannies. Best time to do the job is on a hot day when the Waxoyl flows better. As well as inside the box chassis try to get into the thin gap between the chassis and floor panels. Inside the wheel arches is one potential rust area especially inside rear of rear wheel arches (in front of rear lights). You can thin Waxoyl with turps.

Yes it is a very messy job but think of the beer money you are saving by doing it yourself!

Keith

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The shultz guns work OK for external surfaces, I have found that they struggle to force the stuff down a long tube though, better are the guns specificaly for this job, which pressurise the "tank" to force the waxoil out, rather than rely on it being sucked out by venturi action.

This type of thing (only you can get them cheaper that this)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-SG18-Air-Operated-Wax-Injector-Kit-Application-of-Wax-Rust-Inhibitor/132472721539?epid=27017003496&hash=item1ed7fd5083:g:E0UAAOSwX7BaXd8Q&frcectupt=true

Bob

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I have used rattle cans of ML, the ones that come with a long thin tube with spraying nozzle.

most time is peparation, after steam cleaning and allowing to dry for a week, you can blow any dirt still present with compressed air. I inserted a small (1/2”?) hose taped to my vacuum cleaner in the cavities where possible and blew compressed air from the other side. Also used bend wire to crape inside the chassis, most dirt was directly at the holes.

Finally gave it 3 runs of ML, not the black but the amber stuff.

Waldi

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And, having protected the beast, fit inner wheel arch protectors in order to minimise the damage which is done by flying stones/grit/salt and by the build-up of mud on the underside of the wings.

Either DIY job (you can find descriptions here on the Forum), or purchase kit from the likes of Revington.

Ian Cornish

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Thanks for all of the replies - I think you have convinced me to give it a go and I will add this to the list of my summer jobs to do. 

Out of curiosity, how have those of you that have done this managed with areas that are blocked by items under the car - brake / fuel lines, exhaust, diff etc.  Have you removed, carefully masked or simply sprayed over? 

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This will get you started https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Indasa-Car-Underbody-Wax-Protector-Black-1L-Coating-Spray-Gun-Waxoyl/113687052130?epid=1543286532&hash=item1a7846bf62:g:pM0AAOxylpNTV5YC

Though I prefer the clear. once its empty refill the tin with waxoyl and carry on. be careful using the lance in cavities when inserting with the trigger pulled or removing so you dont kink the tube as the tin will split and you will be wearing it! Dont ask me how I know!

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, Hawk said:

Thanks for all of the replies - I think you have convinced me to give it a go and I will add this to the list of my summer jobs to do. 

Out of curiosity, how have those of you that have done this managed with areas that are blocked by items under the car - brake / fuel lines, exhaust, diff etc.  Have you removed, carefully masked or simply sprayed over? 

Dont spray it on the exhaust if you can but it will soon burn off and same with brake discs but it wont really hurt anything else.

Stuart.

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Hi all

I've always DIY'd this job on all the cars I've had over the past 40 years with Waxoyle apart from the last one where I used Dinatrol as there is less stink than thinning Waxoyle with white spirit. 

Place car on ground sheet, wear clothes/cap your happy to dump or one piece disposable suit, respirator unless you what your lungs to last forever (just don't smoke). Jack car up on stands as high as possible, remove wheels and cover discs and drums with poly bags and exhaust if you can and do the cavities and box sections first and let it drain out which it will in large amounts! Then cover the panels etc. Leave it 24 hours if you can and then fit the rubber bungs/grommets and expect the car to keep dribbling for a few weeks esp in the sun. I park mine on a ground sheet for a few weeks to catch the drips.

Choose a hot day and leave the car in the sun as the wax will creep better into seams better. I use a garden sprayer which I've had for years with bits of nozzles scavenged from various Waxolyle kits which have packed up in on way or another.

Going forward I'd probably keep to Dinatrol as it seems less messy if a bit more expensive.

Andy 

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One point, before you start check the whole chassis to make sure it does not need any welding done. For the first few months after applying waxoyl any welding will cause some interesting pops, bangs wooshes and flashes of flame. Don’t ask how I know.

Chris

Edited by ChrisR-4A
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10 hours ago, ChrisR-4A said:

One point, before you start check the whole chassis to make sure it does not need any welding done. For the first few months after applying waxoyl any welding will cause some interesting pops, bangs wooshes and flashes of flame. Don’t ask how I know.

Chris

That's a great tip - thanks. 

You may recall that last year (1 week before heading to LMC) that I hit a huge pothole and cracked my chassis  on both sides of the diff.  I repaired just in time and then went over the chassis to check all was ok.  But Ii will also check again before covering.   

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Here’s a tip if you use a Schutz gun on a compressor make sure the thread on the can is sound. If it’s in any way doubtful don’t use it because it will come unscrewed in use and pressurised Dinitrol goes absolutely everywhere. I know this because I think I’m still wearing it some years later. 

Edited by peejay4A
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17 minutes ago, peejay4A said:

Here’s a tip if you use a Schutz gun on a compressor make sure the thread on the can is sound. If it’s in any way doubtful don’t use it because it will come unscrewed in use and pressurised Dinitrol goes absolutely everywhere. I know this because I think I’m still wearing it some years later. 

....and....... waxoyl will keep your eyes rust free for many years.:rolleyes:

 

Roger

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Bilthamber offer large aerosol cans of rust preventative that come complete with a tube for introducing to chassis members and box sections.  Two cans was more than enough for my TR3a chassis.

For the underbody I used one of their other products - can't remember which one - and I also bought a can of their brush applied thick wax which I used for areas like enclosed section behind the front wings and at the rear.

Rgds Ian

Bilthamber Cavity wax

Edited by Ian Vincent
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Having looked into this some years ago I personally think the Bilt Hamber one is the best, its full of corrosion inhibitors, unlike waxoyl, which it certainly didn't use to have any and has no mention of them in the blurb. However it now says it kills rust?

Dinitrol is also as good.

The large Bilt Hamber cans are dead easy to use and the long wands are long enough to reach all the chassis baffles and also the full length of the cill section from the three little holes in the door aperture. The wands have a good 360 deg brass nozzle 

It comes in clear or black, I use clear for every thing. having given the car a good dose when I built it it gets about one can a year as a touch up on anything that looks a bit iffy.

 

If you want to use Waxoyl you'd better read the safety / COSHH sheet, link below.

https://www.hammerite.co.uk/files/2017/02/HM_GB_EN_WAXOYL_BLACK.pdf

 

Dave B

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21 hours ago, Dave Burgess said:

Having looked into this some years ago I personally think the Bilt Hamber one is the best, its full of corrosion inhibitors, unlike waxoyl, which it certainly didn't use to have any and has no mention of them in the blurb. However it now says it kills rust?

Dinitrol is also as good.

The large Bilt Hamber cans are dead easy to use and the long wands are long enough to reach all the chassis baffles and also the full length of the cill section from the three little holes in the door aperture. The wands have a good 360 deg brass nozzle 

It comes in clear or black, I use clear for every thing. having given the car a good dose when I built it it gets about one can a year as a touch up on anything that looks a bit iffy.

 

If you want to use Waxoyl you'd better read the safety / COSHH sheet, link below.

https://www.hammerite.co.uk/files/2017/02/HM_GB_EN_WAXOYL_BLACK.pdf

 

Dave B

The safety sheet for the Bilt Hamber product is although heavily abbreviated (which is not good) compared to the Waxoyl one shows it to be equally toxic

http://www.ppcco.com.au/fact_sheets/msds/msds_deox_dynax_UB.pdf

As with all of these products and paints as well proper safety measures should be employed.

Stuart.

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