iani Posted April 20, 2019 Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 I have to remove my camshaft tomorrow, I know that I need to remove the distributor and drive gear, do I need to remove the MU and the dizzy housing too? I'm just looking to minimise the reassembly. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jah Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Hi Ian If I remember right, you do need to remove the MU and the dizzy housing in order to remove the drive gear. Then remove rad and front grill, slacken & remove engine mount bolts and jack engine up a bit so cam shaft clears the bottom of front panel. I think you also need to remove the cross bar between the turrets. You may have to undo the steering rack & move forward to remove the timing cover. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Thanks John, I’ve already removed the crank pulley & timing gear so the cross bar is off and the steering rack moved. Off to remove the dizzy & MU now. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Presume the head is off? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Dizzy & MU all pulled off together, then I removed the followers, 11 came out easily, no 12 however put up a strong fight. I then removed the cam, some corrosion around no 12, this engine came from a fire damaged car, presumably some water ingress as a result of the firefighting. Final job for today was removing the starter motor and fitting a hi-torque unit, the upper bolt must have taken me two hours, I'd have been far quicker had I removed the tunnel cover. Now a week of rest before my "assistant" comes to help put it all back together. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) . Edited April 15, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 A very good idea Tom, I should have done the swap when I recently retrimmed the car, poor planning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) . Edited April 15, 2020 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Hi Ian, the corrosion on the camshaft may also be in other areas in the engine. I would remove the sump for further inspection (use a good torch lamp) and take it from there. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 3 hours ago, Waldi said: Hi Ian, the corrosion on the camshaft may also be in other areas in the engine. I would remove the sump for further inspection (use a good torch lamp) and take it from there. Waldi The sump was dropped when I bought the engine and the bearings were all checked, nothing untoward was discovered. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted April 22, 2019 Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 On 4/21/2019 at 2:42 PM, iani said: Dizzy & MU all pulled off together, then I removed the followers, 11 came out easily, no 12 however put up a strong fight. I then removed the cam, some corrosion around no 12, this engine came from a fire damaged car, presumably some water ingress as a result of the firefighting. Final job for today was removing the starter motor and fitting a hi-torque unit, the upper bolt must have taken me two hours, I'd have been far quicker had I removed the tunnel cover. Now a week of rest before my "assistant" comes to help put it all back together. On 4/21/2019 at 3:06 PM, Fireman049 said: Hi iani ~ I modified the gearbox cover on my 3A to allow easy access to the hi-torque starter motor. I'm sure you could do the same with your TR6. I've cut out various access panels in the gearbox cover. Tom. Ian/Tom, No need to remove the gearbox cover or cut such a large section of the cover away. The top mounting bolt of the starter motor should be captive with a spline in the motor fixing flange. You just need a 1" diameter hole in the gearbox cover in the correct position so that you can fit a long socket extension through it to remove the nut. Re locating the washer can be a bit of a faff but the nut can be re offered up in the socket and tightened without removing the tunnel cover. Just reseal the hole with a 1" dia rubber grommet. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted April 23, 2019 Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 On 4/21/2019 at 2:42 PM, iani said: Dizzy & MU all pulled off together, then I removed the followers, 11 came out easily, no 12 however put up a strong fight. I then removed the cam, some corrosion around no 12, this engine came from a fire damaged car, presumably some water ingress as a result of the firefighting. Final job for today was removing the starter motor and fitting a hi-torque unit, the upper bolt must have taken me two hours, I'd have been far quicker had I removed the tunnel cover. Now a week of rest before my "assistant" comes to help put it all back together. Hi Iani ! That crud on your camshaft suggests to me that the oil gallery on the side of your block is probably full of crud and this oil way is one of the key areas for good oil pressure to the crank. When rebuilding a TR engine the blanking plugs at each end of the gallery should be removed and a rifle bore cleaning rod with bronze brush should be pushed through to clean out all the crud. You often get a 2" inch slug of congealed oil pushed out. With the front grill out you s/b able to do this! Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted April 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 Thanks Bruce, I’m assuming that I’d have to push through to the rear of the block and I can’t get to that with the gearbox in situ. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 23, 2019 Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 Ian, Do you know what had caused the rubbing marks on the corrosion deposits on the cam shaft? Was there a corrosion “bridge” between cam shaft and block? For cleaning of the oil gallery, the block needs to be stripped yes. If this is the only corrosion spot and you understand what caused it and are able to clean it you could remove that and hope for the best. I would be tempted to remove the block, but it all depends... It could be localised corrosion from some water-entrainment from the fire. I would definitely remove the sump for cleaning (water may have collected there) and inspection of the bottom end. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted April 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 20 minutes ago, Waldi said: Ian, Do you know what had caused the rubbing marks on the corrosion deposits on the cam shaft? Was there a corrosion “bridge” between cam shaft and block? For cleaning of the oil gallery, the block needs to be stripped yes. If this is the only corrosion spot and you understand what caused it and are able to clean it you could remove that and hope for the best. I would be tempted to remove the block, but it all depends... It could be localised corrosion from some water-entrainment from the fire. I would definitely remove the sump for cleaning (water may have collected there) and inspection of the bottom end. Waldi The sump was removed Waldi, I had the engine fitted by a Triumph specialist, they dropped the sump and checked the bearings, no corrosion was found. They found corrosion on the cam and cleaned it up, as the journals weren’t corroded they deemed it serviceable. I have put around 2k miles on this engine, and it runs with good oil pressure. There was a problem with the oil feed to the rockers and the garage fitted the external feed, I have blown through the oil gallery in the head with an airline and it is clear, I assume the rocker shaft must have been blocked, I am replacing that with a new one so hopefully all will be well, obviously the new head has a clear oilway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 23, 2019 Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 Hi Ian, Sounds good, maybe do an additional oil and filter change when you have completed the job to remove any debris floating in the oil. Installing a magnetic oil drain plug to catch circulating magnetic particles could be another good idea. Good luck with the repair. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted April 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 I removed the rearmost gallery plug above and behind the oil filter, no crud behind it or any sign of corrosion on the plug. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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