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New Crankshaft Pulley


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I'm about to swap my head & cam out, whilst doing this I thought I might as well fit a trigger wheel in case I decide to go down the EFi route, I picked up my new crankshaft pulley this morning, I had some material removed to allow the trigger wheel to fit inside the original space, the assembly was then balanced.

 

 

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I have the Newman TRI6/280/405 PH2 to fit Richard.

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Hi Ian,

you bought the same Rimmer pulley as I have. The new pulley is clearly heavier than the original. I made the same modification, but with 60 teeth.

A good friend of mine did the balancing. Amazed how much off-balance those pulleys are.

Just be carefull with the missing teeth and its position (to TDC) ...not all ECUs can handle a random position.

Jochem

Edited by JochemsTR
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12 hours ago, CK's TR6 said:

Something along this line, perhaps?

173544168_VRsensor.jpg.86b246853fbe9e34237f2518804990a0.jpg

Looks good, are you selling these? ;-)

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10 hours ago, JochemsTR said:

Hi Ian,

you bought the same Rimmer pulley as I have. The new pulley is clearly heavier than the original. I made the same modification, but with 60 teeth.

A good friend of mine did the balancing. Amazed how much off-balance those pulleys are.

Just be carefull with the missing teeth and its position (to TDC) ...not all ECUs can handle a random position.

Jochem

I bought it from Moss Jochem but no doubt the same part, I had the Engineering company balance it as part of the job, I agree it's a heavy piece of kit. I used the Trigger-wheels.com toothed wheel, I think I saw that on one of your posts either here or elsewhere. the six bolts are precisely drilled so that I can rotate the wheel, I can always get the gap within 60 degrees of TDC, I believe that should be ok with Mega/Microsquirt?

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Ian, I did six mega jolt kits 13/14 years ago.  This was from the first customer’s car.  I still have the drawings.  Fabbed out of some scrap al plate, small piece had groove milled in it for the sensor, the other plate milled to get height correct, the sensor set with the gap for EDIS.   Used existing holes on front plate.  As for the position of the missing tooth/trigger wheel, way back then, yes it mattered for mega jolt or mega squirt.  As for now, IDK.  

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Ian,

my config at TDC (with Ecumaster EMU): standing in front of the car, looking towards the rear:

Missing tooth 3 O'Clock

Sensor 10 O'Clock.

I choose the sensor position first, since I do not have the possibility for random positioning due to the oil lines. The 10 O'Clock positioning helped with wiring and maintenance.

Changing the triggerwheel later on is not a problem, especially the way you have it. However, I glued the screws, so this makes it a little harder and the support beam is a pain to remove, so the radiator needs to go too.

Jochem

 

Edited by JochemsTR
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8 hours ago, CK's TR6 said:

Ian, I did six mega jolt kits 13/14 years ago.  This was from the first customer’s car.  I still have the drawings.  Fabbed out of some scrap al plate, small piece had groove milled in it for the sensor, the other plate milled to get height correct, the sensor set with the gap for EDIS.   Used existing holes on front plate.  As for the position of the missing tooth/trigger wheel, way back then, yes it mattered for mega jolt or mega squirt.  As for now, IDK.  

Would you be happy to share your drawing? I could then have a bracket made up.

 

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I have the same damper pulley, bought from Moss. I didn't know it needed balancing so it was fitted out of the box. What, if any issues would I see given that it hasn't been balanced?

Not EFI and standard cam set up.

Many thanks,

Sean

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8 minutes ago, CK's TR6 said:

Sure, took pictures but they won’t upload from my phone.  They are about 3.8 MB each but still fail to upload even just one.  

I can't PM you for some reason, if you can PM me your email address I'll let you have mine, you could send a couple at a time by email then

Edited by iani
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