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Finely got round to fitting a shiny new steering wheel today, and I am puzzled "not for the first time"

Old wheel off, new wheel on but an awful grating noise when I turn the wheel, the new boss grinds against the old steering wheel cowling, fiddled for ages trying to make it stop with a selection of washers to no effect. I was about to give up and refit the old wheel when for some reason I pulled on the wheel and hey presto the grating stopped. Further fiddling showed that the steering column moved "in and out" by about 5mm. Is that right? I have checked all the splines right down to the rack and they are all good and tight so I have to assume the movement is from within the rack it's self.

As an aside the horn push arrangement on the new wheel seems a bit feeble compared with Mr Lucas's original, has anybody else had this problem?

 

Thanks all David

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No, that's not right. Unlikely to be the rack. More likely the column sliding in the spline (even though it seems tight), or moving in the adjuster.

Get someone to heave on the wheel while you inspect all the joints. 

In my case it was the top spline where the pinch bolt was not pinching enough - there is a design problem (although the 4A might be different here).

You should not use any spacer washers. The inner column can be adjusted for length.

Jerry

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David

I reckon your split column locking bit is either loose or not adjusted correctly - not sure what the correct terminology is for the part but it;s a the top of the column in the engine compartment just below the aluminium column in the engine bay- it looks like this part and is fitted around the column:

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-TRIUMPH-TR4-TR4A-TR5-TR6-STEERING-COLUMN-CLAMP-122669-125782/264275887276?hash=item3d881204ac:g:a

Hope this helps

Cheers

Rich

PS ring me if you are still struggling

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Hi David,

            haven't read the above in detail - too tired at the mo. But this is my take on things

 

For the grating - you need to slacken/adjust the collapsible joint just forward of the bulkhead.

The rubber doughnut joints have a problem. No matter how tight the little bolt is for the splines it will not grip 100%.

As mentioned above get somebody to heave on the steering wheel while you carefully look at each splined joint.

See pic below for the reason it doesn't clamp down fully. The shiny triangle is the reason

 

Roger

 

P1040609a.jpg

Edited by RogerH
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I also reported what I did (with a simple hack saw) in this case, please look here

It was hard to find this post again on the big TR4 heap, it would be helpfull to have the issue "steering".

And significant headlines for the threads would also be very helpfull....

Did I mentioned this already....?

Edited by Z320
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Thanks all

The help I get from this forum is invaluable.

I had a good look today at the clamps from top to bottom of the shaft, instantly obvious was the play on the "impact clamp" This tightened and a good half turn on all the other joints has cured the problem. Having said that and read all the other posts I am now considering the hacksaw mod! The idea that I could be wearing away the splines doesn't bear thinking about.

As for the rather poor horn push, in the end I soldered a copper strip to the back of the unit in the fashion of the old Lucas push, works a treat now.

 

Thanks again for all the help and advise David

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The rubber UJ's work well once they have been fettled.

Ford escort UJ's also work

The hacksaw slot works bu awfully crude.

If you are going to be animal about it I like Geko's angle grinder solution.  Now as he lives n Malaysia that is real 'Jungle' engineering.

 

Roger

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