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jogger321

Fitting four seasons Heater valve

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26 minutes ago, RogerH said:

The fitting that Ed shows is very nice indeed.

There is a simple version.  The electrical connector block that has a plastic body with brass fittings. Wire in one side, another wire out the other.

Ebay here

Remove one of the brass connectors. Open one of the grub screw holes to fit the heater valve pin. The operating cable goes in the end and locked with the remaining grub screw.

TRNiall posted this about two years ago.

 

Roger

Love it!!!  That is a bloody clever idea!!!!  Thanks to Roger and TRNiall!!!

Rich

 

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I looked for that electrical connector block too. Nowadays the brass is replaced by a cheaper pressed steel version. I could not find any large enough with brass inserts.

if you lokk closely in de detail in de ebay offer above, you can see it is not brass.

That’s why I made my own.

Regards,

Waldi

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6 hours ago, RogerH said:

The fitting that Ed shows is very nice indeed.

There is a simple version.  The electrical connector block that has a plastic body with brass fittings. Wire in one side, another wire out the other.

Ebay here

 

That’s what I used,works a treat.

Cameron

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5 hours ago, Waldi said:

I looked for that electrical connector block too. Nowadays the brass is replaced by a cheaper pressed steel version. I could not find any large enough with brass inserts.

if you lokk closely in de detail in de ebay offer above, you can see it is not brass.

That’s why I made my own.

Regards,

Waldi

Hi Waldi,

     if you visit your local electrical supplier they will have quality brass connectors of all sizes.   

 

Ebay sells rubbish because people pay peanuts.

 

Roger

DSC_2956a.jpg

Edited by RogerH

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Hi Roger,

I did just that, and also asked my peers, since you will need the slightly larger ones, but old-fashioned with brass inside: nothing. So I made my own, not too difficult, the 3rd one I made was acceptable:)

Time required: 1/2 hr to fabricate + 3 hrs searching the www and local stores.

Waldi

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Hi Waldi,

            so cheap repro parts is alive and well and outside the TRiumph family.

 

Roger

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Modern times Roger.

we have a coffe grinder, think it is 40 years old (think it came from my grand mother), still going strong. We have bought 3 new mixers in the last 5 or so years, they simpky give up after a couple of years.

Yes, many products were better 30 years ago.

Waldi

 

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Ok getting there...I cleaned the thread of the tube and sprayed some wd40 on it where the Four seasons screws into and also used PTFE tape as suggested and have now managed to get it in ok

Does anyone have a RHD car with it fitted that could post a picture of the complete engine bay so I can see the angle that they have it in relation to the rubber heater pipe that it attaches to and the cable (how far screwed in)

Did people manage to use the existing inner and outer cable as at the moment it seems slightly short (might be because I have it screwed in too much a 1/4 of a turn or 1/4 too little??)

 

Many thanks

 

 

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On my LHD car the original cable did not need any modification.

I think LHD or RHD would not matter by the way. I oriented the valve such that the hose and cable lined up nice.

Waldi

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Hi Jogger,

                the valve points back apprx 45 degrees.  I'll grab a photo later this morning.

To gain max benefit from the lighter action of the new valve it is worth considering swapping the position of the controls inside the car.

The valve is operated from the left side of the consul. The flap is operated from the right hand side of the consul.

Both cables have to do a tight 'S' bend to get to their destinations.

So with then swapped over they have a virtually straight run. This also means that you will need to shorten them. Thus you will have plenty of cable to play with.

 

Roger

PS - I've just realised this is the TR6 forum - the cables may already have been swapped over.

Edited by RogerH

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Hope this helps, it's a great improvement on the old valve!
Regards
Ian

Heater valve.jpg

PS The cable with the blue insulation is a secondary bonnet release cable, another mod well worth doing!

Edited by cvtrian

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Mine has the same orientation as Ian’s.

Waldi

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Hi Ian  &  Waldi thanks for that info....Ian that picture is extremely helpful...Just wondering what your arrangememt for attaching the cable to the new valve was as its not completely clear in the photo

Thanks also for suggesting a secondary method of opening the bonnet...I have fitted the moss emergency arrangement ta

 

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Hi jogger321
I crimped a ring terminal to the end of the cablethen slid a  section of red plastic tubing over the rest of the actuating stem, and to prevent it sliding off, used a stem washer. You are only down the road from me (I live in Evesham) so if you fancy meeting up for a MK1 eyeball, let me know. I've got plenty of that red tubing!
Cheers
Ian

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Pardon my ignorance, but I'm assuming these valves are an improvement on the standard configuration? Is the effort to operate them less because of the range of movement? and lastly, is there a source/reference number for these?

cheers

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1 hour ago, ianfox said:

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm assuming these valves are an improvement on the standard configuration? Is the effort to operate them less because of the range of movement? and lastly, is there a source/reference number for these?

cheers

It is a simple ball valve, no diaphragm like the original. The operation is via the same cable and is much easier to operate. It is generally known as the Everco heater control valve, part number 74648.

Stan

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